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Hey guys, I'm new to 4 wheels, but I've always been a trail boss on dirtbikes. Recently, I purchased a 2016 Outlander L Xmr 570. I have only rode it twice, both were light trail rides. I had noticed a slight wobble, mostly on the front right wheel, but I was told upon purchasing the quad that the previous owner must have ridden it a lot on pavement because the tread was worn in an odd fashion. I took their word for they do routine inspections of all inventory before posting for sale and figured the wobble was due to the knobby treads. Upon further evaluation and checking around the bike myself, I notice a few things were not symmetrical from right to left. First, the front right shock caught my eye, and then I noticed certain plastics have the rivet fasteners missing and that the plastics don't see to align with their anchor points on the brackets. The plastic skid plate attached to the frame seemed a bit odd, but I assumed it was debris (rocks, sticks, mud, etc,.) that was wedge up between the frame and plastic guard...but then I noticed a 2" x 4" sticker on the frame that reads "VOID" all over it. Now I'm worried I bought a quad with a bent frame!! I thought this wobble could be an easy a-arm fix, but I don't see and damage to any of the hardware whatsoever..things just see "out of line" in a sense. Does anyone know of any similar issues or have any advice? Again, I'm new to 4 wheels and have never worked on one...but I have grown up turning wrenches on bikes my whole life..

I recently purchased a 2018 Sportsman 450HO, I have less than 7 hours on it. I pulled it out last night and heard a slight knock at idle that i have never heard. I decided to check the oil and the dipstick was reading to add oil. Question is why would it be low so soon and will that knock go away after adding oil?

Thanks.

Hello all new to this site so be gental, I recently acquired my fourth Polaris after some time away from wheeling it's a 99 sportsman 500 and it was cheap 800 bucks and ran fair it had been let go downhill got it home fixed all the issues rode it a few hrs and it started coughing and sputterin so I poured some seafoam in and rode some more till the cdi box died ordered new cdi,fuel pump,batt,solonoid,and replaced said parts now it starts runs a second and dies any thoughts maybe carb rebuild

Hey all, polman500 has been recruited as a moderator to help out around here. Now you will have two of us to deal with... :grin Welcome to the team polman. :smile

Hey all, polman500 has been recruited as a moderator to help out around here. Now you will have two of us to deal with... :grin Welcome to the team polman. :smile

What weight diff fluid is everyone running in the front and rear? I’ve seen a few different people running 75-140 in the rear and gearbox and 75-90 in the front diff while some others running 75-90 in both front and rear diff. I just drained front and rear diff at 260 miles for the first service and put 75-90 in both front and rear as per what the dealer sold me. Is this fine or should I drain and refill with the 140w?

Also saw mixed answers on how much to fill rear diff. Some say an inch below fill hole in rear and some say to fill up to the hole as same as front diff.

I run a 2017 outlander 1000r xtp with 28” sti outback max Tires and do some hard riding/mud so the diffs are doing some work


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hello everyone!

im new to the forum , just picked up an old 2000 magnum 500, sold my 88 Suzuki in the fall, and bought this for the up coming season

have been tearing it apart to make sure everything is snug

so i have been looking into bigger tires , and i have a stupid question,

so im looking at 27" swamp lights for front and rear the set im looking at are 9" wide, will i run into any problem mounting them on (7" aftermarket rear)& (8" stock front) wide rims?

also i know the tierod end is pretty close to the tires already so im assuming im looking at wheels spacers for the front, one day when its nice out soon, gonna bust out the measuring tape and get an idea of where abouts everything will stick out too,

also i took a quick look at the front lockers, im thinking of just wiring those lockers to a switch so its just on or off, not having to worrie about the over ride switch ect (my day job is electronics&computers)

i also plan on waterproofing, snorkle, rad relocate,

where would i go to check to see if all the u joints on my front and rear prop shaft are the same or not, I have checked it out online and ive got mixed info. but seem the car quest 338 bearing is the go too


thanks again everyone , sorry for the boat load of questions and rambling , if anyone has pointer plz let me know :)