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2008 Sportsman 500 HO EFI here.

I decided to ditch the normal over the controls winch switch as that kills my wrist when plowing in the winter.

I ended up getting the round winch switch I think from a 2015 high lifter like below.


Obviously it’s not going to be a direct plug and play. Splicing would be the easiest, but to cut a $117 (after taxes) I can’t seem to do right now lol.

So this is the plug I’m looking for, if anybody knows that would be awesome.



Thank You!


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Hello there. I have a 2008 Sportsman 500 HO EFI.

A little backstory. I bought a aftermarket voltmeter on Amazon from AutoPowerPlus.

How I mounted it was in the empty spot, where the choke goes on carb models. Fits fine. I ended up using the accessory wires as I don't use them or that socket.

It worked right away, no issues. Now yesterday (10/12), I get nothing out of the display. I have power going to it via a multimeter test, so I'm assuming it got fried. Now I contacted them and they are sending out a replacement which is awesome.

Question time.

1. Is the standard 20A fuse fine or the correct amps for it?
2. Should I drop it down lower? 15, 10, 7.5 etc etc?
3. What other precautions should I take to protect it and my electrical system?

Thank You :)

I have a 2011 Sportsman 550, replacing the original battery. Can't seem to figure out how to remove the battery strap. Can anyone assist?

as in title :/

Recently purchased a 2015 Outlander 800, with 1800 miles on it. It came with snorkel, OEM rad relocate kit, epi clutch (28 inch tires) and looney tuned slip on exhaust. I never noticed it my first couple of rides but I'm sure it was there, after riding for a little while I did start to notice a stumble at low- mid rpm. Seems fine after about half throttle. But now that I've noticed it I can really notice it, even at idle. It also doesn't quite have the power it should when you give it a good shot of gas.

I have a dalton dbo clutch kit waiting to go in which should help a little bit with the way she drives, according to what I've read about the epi kits. But I can notice this stumble even when revving in neutral so there is something else causing this problem. I put the stock exhaust back on and it seems a little better, changed the plugs and checked fuel pressure but the stumble is still there and very evident. I Have been reading a lot and some people say a fuel programmer solved their problems as these bikes sometimes do run too lean just from factory. I Don't want to drop the money on it and still get no where. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hey guys so my cousin bought a 1992 Polaris Trail Boss 250. We installed a carb kit and a fuel filter due to it leaking fuel severely. Carb kit fixed that issue and was installed and seemed to run good after getting it dialed in, we also replaced the spark plug. Now the bike is slow to return to idle speed after riding and revving it up it's not terrible but noticeable. The bike starts and idles great on level ground, but when going down a good grade hill, the idle quickly drops and dies. I tried fixing this with the idle stop screw but that then just makes it idle too fast on level ground. I tried to feather the choke while going down hill which seemed to help but I wasn't able to do it long I need a third arm I guess. The only other thing I noticed was the gasket seemed like it could be bad on the boot that goes from the carb to the cylinder which I already ordered but have not received yet. Would that cause a drop in idle rpm going down hill? maybe losing vacuum at that angel maybe? I'm just at a lost to why it would idle and run great everywhere else but dies everytime going down a grade, it doesn't do it going up, I even stopped on the hill going up and it maintained a good idle.

I got a 13 800r xt. 50mph and higher while driving if I punch it the motor spools up but iam not gaining speed. any suggestions.... assuming clutch bc the belts fairly new . all oem. new to this belt stuff always had Honda before

I just bought a 1999 Sportsman 500 from Craigslist. Only 580 miles and for the most part looks like new. There was a tear in the rear right CV boot, so I replaced. Was not starting every time, so replaced that too and starts right up every time. Did oil change and air filter, etc.

Took it for a test ride after finishing CV boot and was going down road fairly fast and all of a sudden it jerked to the right and continued pulling. Started making a scary noise. A bit of rattling and maybe some low pitched squeaks. I was at the end of my driveway, so pulled it in. I see people talking about hub oil change, and perhaps CV joint. The boot seems fine. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

A couple other questions:
1. can I use SAE 30 in the ATV? I didn't this time around, but had some and was going to but couldn't find any positive signs on the internet that this was okay. Bought an ATV oil from Napa. Whats the best generic oil to use? SHE 30, 5w30, 10w30, 5w50, P4 (really necessary?) ATV oil from Napa?

2. When putting the CV joint/axle back together, should I be oiling/greasing things like bushings, outer CV joint, etc?

3. It seems to be kinda sluggish. Takes awhile to warm up before the gas flows steady. Is this perhaps a filter I can change? Are these quads typically sluggish and needing time to really warm up?

Thanks in advance!