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So I'm looking to see what everyones opinions are for the best overall deep mud tire

Currently running itp mega mayhems in 28s but looking to go to a more aggressive mud dedicated tire and keep the mayhems as a trail tire

So I'm looking to see what everyones opinions are for the best overall deep mud tire

Currently running itp mega mayhems in 28s but looking to go to a more aggressive mud dedicated tire and keep the mayhems as a trail tire

I am looking at purchasing a 2018 Sportsman 1000 or Can-Am Outlander 1000. I like the Sportsman better but Can-Am offers a pretty low profile stock snorkel kit. I like snorkel kits for insurance only, not for expected use, ha. How deep can a stock Sportsman go before needing a snorkel kit. All the snorkel kits for the Sportsman are ugly and add a lot of crap to the front of the machine. And takes away the cool from storage box. Thanks.

This past Sunday I was riding at a local spot with some friends and family when I hear a loud pop, at first I thought it was a cv shaft, been then I notice my bike was louder, although I have an FMF pipe that is loud enough, the bike got obnoxiously loud and would backfire on deceleration.

Turns out my exhaust pipe has separated where the head pipe and mid pipe connect... there appears to be a small crimp type clamp there but the pipe just wallows around inside and the exhaust leaks there.

Sorry for the lengthy post, my question is, is there an exhaust seal that goes there? Because the parts breakdown doesnt show one.
I will disassemble soon and wanted to get a jump on ordering parts if need be.

Hello folk's, I have a new to me 2001 Magnum 335 that will not go into AWD. I have read what seems like the entire net looking for information to help me diagnose the problem and it seems to me my problem is different than others I have read about.

I have discovered I am not sending 12 volts from the AWD switch to energize the hub coils. I have confirmed the hub coils work by disconnecting the 2 prong plugs that go to the coils and applying 12 volts. Grounds are good. I have confirmed that I am missing the 12 volts required to pick the hub coils.

I have disconnected the connector at the AWD switch and I have 12 volts on pin #1 of the connector. I have also confirmed that the hub coils will work if I jumper 12v from pin #1 to the hub coil pins.

Here is where I get lost trying to diagnose why the 12 volts are not being transferred to the hub coils when the AWD switch is activated. I get lost trying to follow the schematic as to where the 12 volts comes from at the switch and how to test the AWD switch to see if it is the problem.

Some addnl info to possibly help figure out where to go next.
- My Magnum does not have a speedo
- My AWD light does not come on when switched to AWD

I have read that the machine will only go into AWD when there is a difference between the front and read wheel speeds, where is this sensed and what signal is sent to the AWD switch to activate the hub coils?

Any other info to help me diagnose this would be greatly appreciated.

Please help,
2004 Polaris sportsman 700 twin will start but has to be jumped started but it wont charge battery. It'll run for about 10 minutes then the whole speedometer flashes then four wheeler shuts off after about 2 minutes and have to charge the battery again to get it to start. I have no idea what it could even be. Anybody have any idea?

Just wondering if anyone else has had the red reflector near the muffler melt?
This is an all stock 2017 XMR 1000 with the only mod done is the spark arrestor removed from the factory muffler...this was done before it melted.
I have a friend that had it happen to his 2016 xmr 1000 as well.

After seeing this I want to bullet proof the heat issues with a fuel tuner and heat shields. Any ideas are welcome but I don't want to go the header wrap route. I have seen too many exhaust systems rust from them first hand. Looking for shields, heat tape, etc.

Hi Polaris Enthusiasts,

My daughter has a 2012 Outlaw 50 that for some unknown reason developed an issue where the headlights and taillight don't come on when the engine starts up like they used to do. The horn and brake light still work. I suspect this is the case because the horn and brake light run off the battery and the headlights run off the stator. The battery has roughly 12.3 volts in it with everything off. When running, the battery continues to have 12.3ish volts, regardless of engine RPM. Because of this I've done some ohm testing of the stator assembly. Below are the ohm readings I get when testing the 4 wire, square plug coming from the right side of the engine.

Black wire --> battery ground terminal = .3
Blue wire --> battery ground terminal = 157.3
Red wire --> battery ground terminal = 1.1
Yellow wire --> battery ground terminal = .8
Blue --> black = 157.3
Red --> black = 1.1
Yellow --> black = .8
Blue --> red = 158.2
Blue --> yellow = 157.8
Red --> yellow = .6

What I can't seem to find are what the acceptable ohm reading should be for testing the stator.

I'd greatly appreciate it if someone on the board could give me some guidance on whether or not my stator is good or bad. If it's not the stator, the only other thing that i can determine is bad is the rectifier module.

Thanks in advance,
Matt