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Hello folks,

My well maintained 700 has a clunk with every bump now in the front end. When I investigated,
I found the U-joint attachment to the front diff very loose. 1/2-1 inch of play when lifted up and down on both sides!. The play in in the differential attachment, not the U-joint. Drives like a dream, but way too loose.
What might this be and is this an easy fix??

Thank you in advance

BB

I have a 2002 sportsman 500 HO and I what to change my rear wheels from 10 inch to 12 inch. What is involved in doing so, will it affect the running gear etc.?
Thanks

So I'm looking to see what everyones opinions are for the best overall deep mud tire

Currently running itp mega mayhems in 28s but looking to go to a more aggressive mud dedicated tire and keep the mayhems as a trail tire

So I'm looking to see what everyones opinions are for the best overall deep mud tire

Currently running itp mega mayhems in 28s but looking to go to a more aggressive mud dedicated tire and keep the mayhems as a trail tire

I am looking at purchasing a 2018 Sportsman 1000 or Can-Am Outlander 1000. I like the Sportsman better but Can-Am offers a pretty low profile stock snorkel kit. I like snorkel kits for insurance only, not for expected use, ha. How deep can a stock Sportsman go before needing a snorkel kit. All the snorkel kits for the Sportsman are ugly and add a lot of crap to the front of the machine. And takes away the cool from storage box. Thanks.

This past Sunday I was riding at a local spot with some friends and family when I hear a loud pop, at first I thought it was a cv shaft, been then I notice my bike was louder, although I have an FMF pipe that is loud enough, the bike got obnoxiously loud and would backfire on deceleration.

Turns out my exhaust pipe has separated where the head pipe and mid pipe connect... there appears to be a small crimp type clamp there but the pipe just wallows around inside and the exhaust leaks there.

Sorry for the lengthy post, my question is, is there an exhaust seal that goes there? Because the parts breakdown doesnt show one.
I will disassemble soon and wanted to get a jump on ordering parts if need be.

Hello folk's, I have a new to me 2001 Magnum 335 that will not go into AWD. I have read what seems like the entire net looking for information to help me diagnose the problem and it seems to me my problem is different than others I have read about.

I have discovered I am not sending 12 volts from the AWD switch to energize the hub coils. I have confirmed the hub coils work by disconnecting the 2 prong plugs that go to the coils and applying 12 volts. Grounds are good. I have confirmed that I am missing the 12 volts required to pick the hub coils.

I have disconnected the connector at the AWD switch and I have 12 volts on pin #1 of the connector. I have also confirmed that the hub coils will work if I jumper 12v from pin #1 to the hub coil pins.

Here is where I get lost trying to diagnose why the 12 volts are not being transferred to the hub coils when the AWD switch is activated. I get lost trying to follow the schematic as to where the 12 volts comes from at the switch and how to test the AWD switch to see if it is the problem.

Some addnl info to possibly help figure out where to go next.
- My Magnum does not have a speedo
- My AWD light does not come on when switched to AWD

I have read that the machine will only go into AWD when there is a difference between the front and read wheel speeds, where is this sensed and what signal is sent to the AWD switch to activate the hub coils?

Any other info to help me diagnose this would be greatly appreciated.

Please help,
2004 Polaris sportsman 700 twin will start but has to be jumped started but it wont charge battery. It'll run for about 10 minutes then the whole speedometer flashes then four wheeler shuts off after about 2 minutes and have to charge the battery again to get it to start. I have no idea what it could even be. Anybody have any idea?