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2007 polaris 500 efi 4x4 got flooded from hurricane Harvey. My dumb self cranked it and it drove about 15 yards then died. It will turn over but will not crank what to do?

Ok so this is my first time posting on here so thank you in advance to any help and advice I might receive from y'all. So I picked up a 2000 Polaris scrambler 90 and I can't get it to run for nothing. It will run if I spray starter fluid in carb but will die out. I've taken the carb off and cleaned it several times, everything is working like it should inside it that I can tell. I'm getting fuel to the carb just fine. It's got good spark. The compression read 90psi. I've read that anything less than 100 isn't enough and I've read that as long as it's above 85 it should be fine so I'm not sure about that. It's got a brand new battery plus I put fresh gas in it. The plug is brand new and is never soaked in fuel from trying to start it. I did tighten the throttle cable up and it started without any starter fluid but died again. I'm wondering if raising or lowering the needle would make a difference. I do know the brake lever has to be engaged when tryin to start it. I don't know much about these. The only thing I've done similar to this was rebuild a Yamaha pw80 with a new top end and carb so I'm not completely blinded by this but I could deff use some help. Again thanks in advance

Hey guys. I have a 2011 Max 650 outty. As we do a lot of riding on hard pack, i decided to adjust the stock suspension on it. The first one i adusted went smoothly but the second one broke on me. The things that you need to turn simply went in pieces. So to address this, i bought Elka Stage 3 which i should receive shortly. However, while adjusting the suspension I found out that my exhaust was fairly loose. The screw holding it to the frame were totally loose. I also notice that the rear section of the atv was also a little loose / shaky. As if the rear part of the ATV was detached from the frame. Part of it is holding through the screws that holds the exhaust. But two other screws are holding it ad well just under / behind the passanfer seat. Im going to try to make my way there to see if something is up but I am not sure yet. Has anyone experienced that before and if yes, how did you fix it?

I'm replacing wheel bearings on all 4 corners of my 570. One of my front axles came apart in the inner boot while trying to remove it.

I can seem to get it back together. I can get it out.

I have the axle removed from the opposite side. Can I put a drift in there and tap the other one out through the diff? Or, is there some kind of plate separating them. I can't really tell.

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I'm in need of technical help as I just started to get 102-3 code on my 2010 550XP. SO I found out where this was located to check wires at plug by wiggling them to see if there's any change in idle which there wasn't. I then disconnected plug and gave both sides a good shot of electronic cleaner and plugged back in. Still everything the same. I then took a better look at the sensor and it appears there should be a screw thru the one ear of the sensor to hold it down.. I have nothing.. Question I have I see theres a metal ring or copper or bronze colored inside both ears. Is this sensor grounded to engine with the hold down screw? Could this be my problem? I don't see a screw listed on parts diagram so not sure I'm even close to the issue. Can these be ohm tested or checked in any manner?

THanks in advance

I ordered the metal valve cover for my 05 sportsman 700 twin. Do I reuse the old "reed" parts or use the new ones that came with it? The new ones don't have a reed.

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I ordered the metal valve cover for my 05 sportsman 700 twin. Do I reuse the old "reed" parts or use the new ones that came with it? The new one does not have a reed.

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hey guys got a 90 predator 2 stroke runs good starts good idles good but when you hammer on it it will take off for a bit then bog down but if you pull the choke out the problem goes away have any ideas what the issuse is? i rebuilt the carb cleaned very well float level is good

I am looking at a 1000 outlander a guy has on Craigslist. He knows me a little so he's letting me look it over before making an offer. Before I look at things under the plastic, can I get opinions of what it could be. I thought it was the transmission and if so, not interested. Basically when you crank it up and put it in gear, if you hit gas too early it grinds the gears. After you wait and hit the gas, the atv shakes like you are riding through a earthquake. After you pick up a little speed, it smooths out n rides fine. If it's something cheap to fix, might be a good buy. Clutch, belt, transmission? Any suggestions?

Hey guys first time posting.

yesterday i started my 2013 renegade800 and let it idle while i got things together after a minute or so the quad idled up to around 1500 rpm then back down and a short time later it idled back up. i then hit the throttle and held it at around 1800-1900 rpm and while doing that the quads rpms jump up to around 4200 rpm without me moving my thumb on the throttle. any advance and where to begin looking before i have it sent to the dealer. thanks guys!!