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Why a 10 Character password? major pain.... my two cents.:sad

i just bought a 95 magnum 425 with low gear only. is it possible/much work to mount a hi gear?

Bit of a silly question but I'm a newb so please forgive. Have two 2017 Sportsman 450 HO ATVs. One stopped starting and was fixed by the technician replacing the spark plug. I don't have a trailer yet so they had to come out to do it. Now the other has the same problem and I figured I'd try replacing it myself but I can't find it on the head. Any tips for replacing the spark plug? The videos I watched showed a red boot but neither of them cover a spark plug in this model and the manual gives no indications of where it is and how to get to it best.

Thanks,
Greg

First, the good news: it cranks strong and long and has a fat, bright, strong spark.

If fuel is sprayed into the air inlet duct to the throttle body, the engine will run.
And Yes, I know how dangerous that is.

The fuel tank has been removed and cleaned.
The fuel pump runs and fuel flows out of the hose going into the injector.
I have NOT measured the fuel Pressure as I haven’t been able to rig up a gauge.
When ignition is turned ON and/or cranking the engine, no fuel comes out of the Injector.

The Fuel Injector has the correct resistance as measured with my Fluke 179.
The wiring connector to the Fuel Injector was tested and neither wire (Red/BLK and WHT) had continuity to ground.

With the Ignition Switch ON, the Red/Blk wire had BATT voltage both to the WHT wire and to Ground.
I presume that the ECU controls the Injector by completing the circuit to ground through the WHT wire.

Additionally, when the ignition is turned ON, the fuel pump runs briefly and the stepper motor in the throttle body runs to both limits. (whirrrr whirrr click click chatter chatter)
And Yes, I have already read and re-read EFI 101. Great info there.

CODES

The following Blink Codes are present:

41 Inlet Air Temp Low or High Voltage
47 Idle Air Control Open Load or Short to Ground
51 Injector Open Load or Short Circuit to Battery
55 Diagnostic Lamp Short Circuit to Ground or Battery

41 IAT
The resistance across the terminals on the IAT probe immersed in 68° water
is 2.490k-ohm, close enough for Gov’t work. (Appears the Service Manual is
mistaken in listing the value as ohms instead of K-ohms.)
Measured 5vdc at the IAT connector, Orange wire to ground and to
Purple(violet?).
Checked continuity to ground of both wires and Orange has 3.48k-ohms to
ground and Purple(violet?) has continuity to ground.

I do NOT understand how the Code could be correct if both the Voltage and Resistance are either Correct or very close to Spec.

47 IAC
Checked the resistance across the pins on the IAC per the Service Manual
and the values are pretty close:

PINS Spec Actual Diff
1-2 30+/- 1.2 32.0 +0.8 ohm
2-3 30+/- 1.2 31.7 +0.5 ohm
1-3 60+/- 2.4 63.4 +1.0 ohm
4-5 30+/- 1.2 31.5 +0.3 ohm
5-6 30+/- 1.2 32.3 +1.0 ohm
4-6 60+/- 2.4 63.5 +1.1 ohm

Without knowing where the wires on the connector go, I can’t begin to determine if one is “short(ed) to ground”. And I don’t really understand the definition of “Open Load”.

51 Injector
It has the correct voltage and resistance; it has fuel, it isn’t working. Not a squirt, not a dribble.
Again, I don’t understand the term “Open Load”.

55 Diagnostic Lamp
If I understand correctly, I should get a Check Engine (MIL) light when Codes are present. I have four Codes and there is NO Check Engine light on the instrument panel. Frankly, I’ll worry about that one later, unless it’s a function of a faulty ECU. Can a Dealership bench test the ECU? (NOT to be confused with PDM, Power Distribution Module, which has been repaired and is apparently functioning well.)

As for clearing codes, the battery has been disconnected for days and the same codes reappear. I have replaced the IAT and fuel injector to no avail. Everything else appears to working normally.

I would greatly appreciate ANY ideas or suggestions as to the source of these Codes, how to diagnose the problems and how to go about “fixing” them and getting this vehicle running again.


MaxTorque

I watched a youtube video of how to remove the primary clutch the proper way. The guy says he uses a locking bolt to lhold the crankshaft in position. I cannot find where he puts this bolt in the motor to hold it into position. I have the online manual and it dose not show that technique being used. I started to clean my clutches but stopped short of removing the sheaves because of lack of confidencein what im doing. Is it really necessary to lock the crankshaft or is the right way to do it. I also dont see that bolt in the repair book, maybe for earlier models or larger than the 650. The other part that confuses me is when removing the secondary clutch ,,then re insatlling it the put a screwdriver in the back of the helix and spring, what are they trying to do here, anybody know, let me know thanks.

I just bought a 2011 Sportsman 850 XP and want to change the tranny fluid. I have read both 5w20 and 75w90 and am not sure which is better or why?

While I am here I have also read ATF for the front diff. Is that a good option or am I better off with the tractor oil that Hilliard recommends?

Thanks

New here but not new to building and moding bikes. I have had a few over the years. Currently own 2 Polaris quads. Picked up the 1st one a month ago. 95 Magnum 425 4x4. Paid $300. Had to fix a few things. Still need to fix a few things. Had to replace a rear tire. It was stuck in low gear. It had no brakes. It had sat for almost 2 years. Put in a new battery and fresh gas and it lit rite off. Still needs new chains and new brake lines. As well as some electrical work. But the 4WD works. Needs a new set of bearings and a cv on the left front.
Second one I just got on Tuesday. 97 Explorer 300. $800. Was flooded worse than Ive ever seen one. Had a loose rear hub. Had the rear wheels on backwards. Just welded up all the cracks in the wheel around the lug holes where they put it on and cranked it down. Needs new chaims as well as rear sprockets. But it runs good and everything works but the 4wd. Has a busted wire at the strut hub. Easy fix. It also needs a left front cv. I will be trying to make these into reliable rigs for my Dad and I as he is disabled and cant get around to well anymore. Good way to get him outside and doing stuff again. His depression is like a cloud around him.

Hello!
New to this forum, all the way from Sweden.

I've recently picked up a used Polaris Sportsman (in Sweden called 'Worker') 500 1998.
I'm about to do an complete oil change & some minor restoration to it and i have a little problem with what oils to use everywhere.
Last week i ran into my local Polaris dealer and bought the "Demand Drive Fluid" (as i'm having a bit off an issue with the front hubs not releasing the 4wd) for the front hubs and was about to buy all the other oils as well, but they kinda scared me off with the prices.
So my thoughts now is what oil (brand & specs) i can buy instead?
As i've read online believe any fully synthetic 5w/40 will do for the engine, but what oils should i buy for the transmission,differentials & gear lever box?

And are there any more filters except the oil filter that should be changed?

Help appreciated from a cold & rainy autumn Sweden.

Edit: Posted in wrong section..