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Hey how's it going everybody I'm new to the ATV world and I just purchased my first ATV the guy I bought it from said it was a 2001 sportsman 400 when I got home and looked at the ownership it said 2000 sportsman 335 so I've been doing some googling and it looks like it is a 335 which is OK for me I don't care but now that I figured he lied to me about that I want to do all the oil changes and stuff even though he said he did it just to be sure! But I want to make sure the atv is what it is.



It's been ridden hard but runs good other then the heat sheild rattling

Here are pictures

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After searching for a replacement eps relay all over the US discovered Polaris wants you to replace your defective 4 pin automotive type relay SONG CHAUN 871-1A-S-R1 12VDC 35A with their eps repair relay kit 2204853 for anywhere from $40 to $53 which consist of a 6 in wiring harness with the above relay plugged into it. This is a single pole normally open 4 pin relay which simply provides 12vdc to the eps steering assist unit If yours is as damp and corroded as mine was yours probably is not operating to provide the 12v to the eps.
After removing the front and left fender i finally found the relay and plug taped to the frame next to the fuel inlet You may want to just clean and apply dielectric grease and test or if you want or need to replace go to NAPA auto parts and ask for part # AR6665 multi purpose relay (used on Ford fuel pump)$18.99
Thanks to NAPA guy Brian at Vestavia Hills, Al store!

When I dragged my 2004 Sportsman 700 out of the lake, and got it running well again btw, I was left over with this hose.
Where does it go?
Clear 1/8" (?) tubing, with an attachment at the end.
Attachment is disc shaped, about an 1" diameter. Maybe a filter, check valve, breather or something. It has an open tubing port opposite the hose connection.

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I have an 2006 800 Sportsman that I recently hit a rock. I didn't think it was that bad as I am sure I have hit worse! However, the location it struck the skid plate apparently couldn't have been worse. It struck the plate in the back near the right/rear motor mount bolt. Looking at the plate itself, it doesn't appear to be that bad. But as soon as I hit the rock, I noticed a horrible vibration coming from the right side. When I bent the skid plate, it pushed the motor up on that side enough that the aluminum housing is now making contact with the exhaust that is bent/routed over the same housing below it. I am guessing if I could stand the obnoxious noise, that it would eventually wear a hole in the exhaust.

I just can't get anything in there in the right spot to bend the plate back down. After some researching it appears as though Polaris didn't provide much clearance for that aluminum housing and exhaust in the first place. I am just thinking I can't be the first guy to do this and was looking for some ideas to bend it back. Dealer wants to replace the frame and won't go that route. I have ideas of cutting that portion of the skid plate out to reshape and then welding back (would consider a machine shop for this one), pulling the motor and beating the plate back from the top but wanted to see what was out there.

How I got here. The magnets on the flywheel came loose and destroyed the stator. I got a new flywheel and stator, installed it and she started right up. After running for a few minutes she died. I couldn't get it started so I back tracked. I found out the flywheel rubbed through my pick up (Pulse coil) wires and grounded out. I taped them and tucked them back better, still wouldn't start. So I switched the pick up to the old one, still no start also gaped to .4. I have replaced the CDI, ignition coil, wire and plug cap and I still get the same results.


Coil primary side: .9 specs .3
Coil secondary: 0 with cap 0 through cap 0 specs 6300 with cap 113000 just cap 5000

Capacitor charge coil:
green to black/red 0
green to red 3.7

Pick up/pulse coil
white to white/red:132.0

Coil mount to engine:.2 specs 0-.2

I also disconnected the black CDI wire for kill switch and the speedometer with no luck.
When I try to start and test the plug wire (no cap) I get .1-.2 volts

Fellow riders,


I've been reading the posts for a couple of years and finally hit the join button. I've read a few posts where I thought that I had some valid insight and then also had some questions that I'm sure you guys could help with, so here I am.....Currently ride a 17' triple black XMR 1000. I ride 75% mud and back country, 25% mountain trails. Warranty runs out this month, so I'd like to start looking at mods.

I haven't been on in a while, and I haven't been riding so I hadn't even looked at the new models until a few days ago. When I was looking to buy my son an ATV a couple years ago Polaris was at the top of the list for the value of it's price/performance/features. But when I looked at their site the 450 is now $6300? That's the cheapest Polaris now? They had been around $5300 to $5600 in previous years. It seems they've lost the lead if you're looking for the cheapest ATV. If I were buying today and was going by MSRP I'd have to look at Can Am first now.

I noticed the 450 was called the 450 Utility Edition. Is this model more expensive than the standard 450? I didn't see any "regular" 450 on the site though. So am I just wrong about the pricing getting higher?

Howdy,

It's been a bit since I originally posted, but I am looking at aftermarket exhaust systems for my 17'. I want to put a RVS tune on it, which would require me to swap exhaust and intake. I have only seen RJWC and HMF make an aftermarket exhaust for the 17:

- Split dual exhaust NON TOURING «

- https://www.hmfracing.com/exhausts/p...sportsman-1000

Are there any other companies that I am missing? Has anyone installed one on their kit? Has anyone tuned their 2017 yet?

Any help here would be appreciated. I am putting audio on the bike now, so I will make a separate post once it's done.

Thanks!

Hi, any pictures of what you have done for the battery tender plug installment/placement?
TIA