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Hi im new to the forum. Anyone knows what that front yellow button does? Not the override button there is a small yellow button at the front. Thx

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Hi folks, just bought a new Mav and now looking for a front winch mount for it, have the rear one on and organized. Can anyone steer me in the right direction for one please and any mods that go with it. I'm quite prepared to modify the ally bumper or take it right off if necessary, but nobody here has experience of this so desperate for info. Many thanks to any posters for any info at all, cheers, Red :smile

So here I am, working on a 2007 Outlander 800 XT...and it seems that the laws of physics have vacated cylinder 2. I suppose I should start at the beginning, before we get to the good part. This machine was brought to me as a no-start. 2761 miles/391 hours. Came up with a cam phase sensor code. Pulled the cam sensor, and looked inside to find no movement on the cylinder 1 cam gear. Timing job...no problem. Tore it down. #1 chain had broken. There were marks on the piston from contact with the valves, but very slight. The valves do not appear to be bent, and seat up with the head perfectly. #2 is fine, chain stretched, but intact, and no indication of interference. Order chains/guides, gaskets, oil, and filter. Install the new parts...double and triple checked timing. Adjusted valves, new NGK DCPR8E plugs. Starts fine, but runs rough, and is the new 'Gutless Wonder' trophy holder of the neighborhood. Cylinder 2 is not firing...at all. Things I have verified/checked again -multiple- times: both timing chains set properly - valves adjusted properly - strong, consistent spark on 1 and 2 - both injectors spraying properly/equally(also swapped) - no diagnostic codes showing - muffler cleared of carbon... No matter what I mess with, absolutely no fire in #2...as in, exhaust pipe at the head stays completely cold until heat makes it's way up from where 1 and 2 join up. Someone please point out if I'm missing something, but fuel and air go in the bedroom...spark falls through the window whilst peeping...physics demands that some kind of energy runs for the hills as heat. The -only- possible exception I can come up with, would be if somehow, the computer caught a case of the dumbs, and were sending spark at the end of the exhaust stroke - only to number 2. I'm absolutely perplexed, and completely baffled. With a large side helping of flabbergasted. I really hope somebody here can offer some insight. I wait with bated breath.

I looked and searched but no luck,inherited 4 traxter xl with electric shift.been sitting awhile.1st runs great 2ND runs good but 1-5 lights flashing on dash and it wont shift,3rd wont power up nothing on dash presume epem is gone.any help out there

I have rebuilt the engine with crank, block and pistons. Now using oil. 700 miles and added 2 quarts total in 2 different fills. Couldn't find any leak, so decided to check muffler outlet and found that it is passing the pistons and blowing out. Haven't let it go completely dry.

Would it need new rings or can it be worse? Our quad season is maybe month and a half or 2, would it be safe to keep topping off until the season is done or should I stop using it til get new rings? Or am I in already for worse?


EDIT-sorry, forgot to add tried doing comp test but my tester cannot fit small spark plug and couldn't find one. Quad seems to run fine other then the oil usage.

New to the Can-am, I have got a new to me 2011 outlander 500. Washing and cleaning it today I noticed what appears to be two missing bolts. (See pictures)
What does anyone else think?

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Good evening folks. Just wanted to stop in and say hi. Recently put a deposit on a 17 Sportsman 570. Should pick it up on Sept 1 or 2 during my states tax free weekend. Going to be mostly for my wife to ride.

That being said, I don't think she's going to want me getting too crazy with the mods on it. Is there anything I need to do ASAP? Anything to look out for?

Plans for now are a winch, 3 headlight mod, and maybe some more aggressive tires.

Thanks for any info y'all are willing to share.

Scooter


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-Originally posted in Sportsman discussions, but after 0 replies, thought it may be better here-
After searching/reading a number of posts on this forum, I thought that I had identified the problem, and was close to fixing it......

Original issues: AWD not working, speedo needle jumping/erratic, and dies/stalls when shifted into reverse if the override button wasn't pressed.

Other posts pointed me towards the Hall Sensor, so I disconnected it and voila- AWD began functioning and it no longer died when shifted into reverse, and of course the speedo didn't work at all. I should also mention that the speedo backlight was intermittent and would sometimes flicker, which wasn't a big concern. I ordered a new Hall sensor and installed it last night. After installation, the AWD no longer works (with the Hall Sensor plugged/unplugged), and when the speedo flickers (seems to correspond with steering turns; indicative of a loose diode/capacitor in the speedo?) it will kill the machine regardless of moving forward or backwards. With the speedo plugged in, if it is lit up, the machine will not start/run. Even after unhooking the new Hall sensor, I once again have no AWD (which I'm now unsure why I had AWD after unhooking the old Hall Sensor). Keeping the speedo unplugged allows me to drive the machine, but I need AWD (I'm a land surveyor and get in a lot of rough places).

Voltages on the 6 pin speedo wire (key on, not running):
A - (red/white stripe) 11.86v
B - (brown) .515v
C - (black) 11.61v
D - (yellow/red stripe) .818v
E - (brown/white stripe) 11.91v
F - (grey/orange stripe).515v

Is there an explanation for what I'm seeing, or did the speedo just decide to fully die?

(Seems unlikely given the voltage readings, but) Are the brown & brown/white stripe wires coming to the speedo, the same ones mentioned in the connecting/grounding videos/posts for an AWD fix, located under the front cover/near the front rack (I haven't been in there recently, as I have to remove my storage to access the rack bolts)?

What other options do I have to get my AWD working?

Thanks!


Robert

Hi ,
I am new here as of right now.

Lookin to buy a
2012 outlander max 800r xt-p with 1400 kilometers.

So couple questions ...

Does that year had the frame issues ?
Did it had the overheating cvt / left foot ?

What are the common issues for this bike ?

How do you like the Fox adjustable air suspension / any issues regarding the compressor ?

What about the power steering in those years ?

Ill buy the bike from a dealer and its sitting right next to a 650 max xt with 1400 kilometers as well and I believe they both belong to the same guy [and his wife] wich appears to be an older couple... I mean... 1400 in 5 years lol
[ 870 miles for those wondering ]


I currently am riding a 2005 polaris predator 500...
But Im getting old [ 30 ] with kids. Thats why I am looking into something more family orientated.

Im still not sure between an outty or a bruteforce 750.