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Has anyone add their own homemade heat shield to the right panel of their quad? Looking to put something behind the plastic panel but not sure what works. It's almost uncomfortable in the summer. Thanks for any info.


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I just bought a Magnum 400 and the carburetor will need to be cleaned out from where it has sat for several years. I've cleaned/rebuilt dozens of carburetors on just about everything. I found it to be hit or miss.

The last carburetor I messed with was on my daughter's "Peace" 110cc ATV. I took it apart and it had a bunch of green funk in the fuel bowl and jets.

Afterwards it ran but fouled the spark plug where it was running too rich for some reason. So I ended up just buying a new carburetor for $13. For that price, they are not worth messing with.

If I have no luck cleaning this Mukini carb on this Magnum 400, have any of you guys found a Chinese knockoff that will work on this engine without having to muck about with jetting and all?

No I don't have the model number of the carb but while I have it off, I'm going to write it down in case I have no luck cleaning it out.

Also, what have you guys used? I've used everything from soaking the carb in fuel injection cleaner, boiling them on a hot plate with Purple Magic.

I've heard MEK (which is technically a paint thinner) works well. I smuggled some out of work and plan on giving it a shot.

So i bought this 1996 Magnum 400. It's been sitting for some time but my co-worker says it ran when parked due to fuel issues. I know the motor is not locked up.

It does not run but the guy told me everything wrong with it was related to the fuel system such as the nipple broke off the petcock valve and the fuel pump. The carburetor is clogged up from sitting of course. The brake calipers will need to be taken apart and cleaned and lubed.

I'm not sure what else I might find when I get into it.

Anyway so we put it in neutral and rolled it onto my trailer. I locked it into forward and strapped it down.

So my father and I get home and when I tried to pull the shifter into neutral, it must have went into reverse and stayed there.

For some reason the lock nuts on the rods were backed off. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.

I disconnected the rods that go from the shifter to the transmission and disengaged the transmission by using a 1/2 wrench on the nuts.

So the problem is not in the transmission but the shifter box.

As of right now I can move it from shifter from forward to reverse but it's real stiff and cannot move it into low range.

Unlike my Xplorer 300, the shifter is REALLY stiff. Unlike my Xplorer the boot was not busted so there is no way water could have gotten into it. This thing appears to use the same shifter as my Xplorer 300.

Any chance I fill it full of PB Blaster and loosen it up?

Which brings another question. The shop manual says to put something like 0W30 motor on it. About 1 ounce.

How are you supposed to get oil in this shifter box? Remove the three star heads and pull the lid off and pour it in?

Sounds like it may just need a good cleaning in kerosene and new oil and might fix the problem.

1998 Xplorer 300.

First of all, I wired a rocker switch to send power directly to the front hubs because the front hubs were not getting power. I *think* the switch on the shifter is bad (indicators won't light up) not allowing power to go to either the on/off switch on the handlebar or through reverse over ride switch. Something in the system is not working and this was just easier and cheaper than replacing a bunch of switches.



So it seemed either one front hub was not engaging or one side was not disengaging or something causing the front end to pull to one side after using the 4 wheel drive.

So I took hubs apart and cleaned out any funk from the sprags and bearings with kerosene, put everything back together and topped it off with Dexron ATF to the 4 o'clock position (yeah I know).

So far so good as far as pulling. I jacked my bike off the ground and tested the 4WD system.

When I engage the 4 wheel drive, and rev it up a bit, the right wheel will spin. When I disengage the 4 wheel drive system, the wheel stops spinning so that side seems OK.

However the left side behaves kind of odd. It engages as well but when I turn the 4 wheel drive off, that wheel continues to spin.

However if I put the bike in reverse and rev it up a bit, the wheel stops turning then when I put it in forward, it doesn't turn.

So in other words, in order to get the left side wheel to stop turning after disengaging the 4 wheel drive, the transmission has to be put in reverse first.

No biggie but what's up with that? Is this normal?

I was using my Xplorer the other day to pull another Polaris I bought and was spinning the rear wheels because the rear brake was locked up on the one I just bought. I engaged the 4X4 system and then the rear wheels stopped spinning. So the 4 wheel drive system seems to be working fine now. And no unusual pulling after turning the 4 wheel drive system off.

now have tbap probs. codes 41 45. unplug harness and it runs fine momentarily. plug it in and it wants to die... pulled on wires and they seem ok. sensor doesnt look tampered with... harness or sensor? thanks!

I'm trying to help a friend with a Polaris XP Model # 2520673.

The wiper does not run; troubleshooting showed that the switch failed but the motor is ok.

I can't find any brand or part number on the motor assembly.

Do you recognize this part?

Is it feasible to replace just the switch? If so, what is the replacement part? How does one open the gearbox to remove the switch?

If a new motor assembly is required, how can a find the part number or an equivalent replacement?

Thanks for any guidance,

Stewart

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