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Did the 2006 450 come with more than one carb option? I guess my real question should be is there a repair kit for it/them? What about aftermarket carbs? Are any of them decent? I see a lot of them on amazon.

Hey Guys,

I am not sure where to look but my EPS light is now on and I have no EPS, I installed a new battery not sure if this happen before or after installing the new battery (old battery was dead) the battery reads 13.58 volts. Any ideas on what I should check out.

Thanks,

i have a 2007 sportsman 800 that i just purchased. ti has 1500 miles. i was having an issue with a low to mid throttle hesitation, but would run perfect above 1/2 throttle. i checked tps and it seemed to check fine. i replaced the plus, no change. i read all the post of wiring issues so i stared pulling wires and the black wire pulled out of the tps. i ordered a new tps and harness, got a harness for the tbap as well, and also ordered a new fuel pump kit with regulator just to have on the shelf. i put new tps on and cant get in to spec, turned all the way and my base voltage was still low. so i dremel the mounting hole on tps so i can rotate enough to get base voltage. finally get that set set idle screw voltage and reassemble. quad starts right up idle is still uneven but the hesitation in low to mid throttle is gone. so i let it run for a while, all of a sudden it back fires and quits. it will start back up but the idle is unstable and it quits. so now i am thinking tbap. check codes no codes. hey i have the harness ill put it in. replace harness and still have same problem. check for codes and now have code 45. erase codes, run it at idle pops, uneven idle and quits and sets code 45 again. quad runs fine off idle just wont idle. could the tbap sensor be bad? i replaced harness with otb 14" harness. i have otb tps harness, and i just ordered another tps sensor from otb. (1st tps sensor was not otb). i check wires going to tbap. i have ground on pin 1, 5v ref voltage on pin 3, the return wire never changes when the quad is running. it reads 4.03v with quad running, or off, or at 300rpm. this value should change with vacuum. so now im thinking bad tbap sensor? any ideas

Hi Folks,
I have a 2016 Sportsman 570 SP 2 up and wondering if there is anything I can do to upgrade the rear suspension for increased weight.. between me, my wife, two medium sized dogs and their custom seat we are pushin that poor little quad to the 650-700lb mark and its looking a little sagged in the rear end... we dont usually do any crazy riding, just mostly tour the forest service roads in our area.. any info on a rear suspension upgrade in Canada would be great! Thanks in advance!

James

Hi there,

I was going to replace the rubber cover on my gear selector today on my 2000 Sportsman 500 and while attempting to get the screw out under the cover of the shifter knob, the head of the screw snapped off. I was hoping that someone knows the size of the screw so I can pick up one locally instead of ordering one online? It is screw number 7512024.

Thanks!

Have had this issue for awhile and after tearing down the unit the only issue I could find was a slight bit of latent magnetism in the coil....I'm wondering if this would be enough to cause the issue. The unit works fine when the AWD is engaged, but can jerk left or right when the switch is off.

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I bought my new vehicle in August of 2018 as an 18 year old, still in high school. Machine worked great until about October, with about 15-20 hours (150 miles) on the thing, when the speedometer screen began to cut in and out when I revved the rpms on the engine up. Note that Polaris began putting the new LCD electronic speedometer displays on these machines this same year. Anyways, the flickering progressively got worse as time went on. Luckily, I was able to schedule my first 25 service, in which I would get this fixed as well. I took it down to McGrath Powersports in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, and they stated it was simply loose connections. Speedometer worked perfectly after.

Few months ahead, after a long winter, the dang thing starts to do it again at about 40 hours of engine time. Again I wait until my 50 hour service and take it back to McGrath, where this time they stated that the connector on the back was broken and now replaced. Still had a problem, though, which I wish I would have noticed at the dealer. The clock on the speedo reset every time I turned the machine off. Not a big deal, but quite annoying.

Now only a few weeks later (60 hour engine time), as you can probably guess, the speedo is back at its duty, flickering on and off when the engine revs up. Not only this, but every so often the speedo will completely reboot and act as though you just turned the machine on, all while I'm flying down a gravel road at 60 mph. The clock continues to reset with each reboot as well. I looked at the connections and connector behind the speedo, and to be honest I don't even think it had been replaced, rather just snapped shut. I would take it back down to McGrath, as that is where I purchased it, but my experience with this thing has not been great. To make matters even a little more difficult, I wired in a diode to the headlights so all three lights would run at the same time, and because of this, dealers will now charge me 120+ dollars to run a diagnostic on it.

At this point I'm almost wondering if I shouldn't have gotten a Polaris, but I do not want to feel this way as I am a huge fan of their vehicles and absolutely love to go riding with them. I'm really not sure what to do, as I do not want to continue to keep blowing money on this thing. Just wondering if I could get any input from any of you guys. Thanks!

I have a sportsman 600 that this winter while plowing I noticed was doggie so I was gonna do a tune up and when I went to change the air filter the air box had about 1/2 inch of coolant in it I cleaned it all out and went about my way checked It the other day and there is about an 1/8th on there again I watched as it ran and is seems to come from the breather line from the head/valve cover. What could cause coolant and yes its coolant it is sweet to taste.

Our 2015 570 Touring with about 300 hours showed symptoms of fuel problems last fall when in the mountains but I mistook it for moisture problems after fording a deep creek. Then it started to backfire occasionally. It was shortly after that it got put away for the winter. This spring I could get it started easily, but it would not run for more than a few seconds after the choke opened. It would only run up to around 3000 rpm and labored heavily to get there. Absolutely no way I could get on and ride. Classic fuel starvation. Pumped out the old fuel and filled with new. No difference. Took the 570 apart and tested the fuel pump. It was delivering only about 28 psi of pressure to the motor so replacement was indicated. Ordered a kit from Quantum Fuel Systems in CA and had it in four days. The kit restored proper pressure of 58 psi and it is now running like new. It included a new pump, filter, wires, o-rings, and locking ring seal. No fuel regulator.

Glad to have it running so well again. It has had this declining pressure problem for a while but I never noticed it until it got really poor. It was a good excuse to buy a fuel pressure gauge kit and was also a good exercise in disassembling the plastic body parts. Now I won't fight with them when working on other components!

Saved hundreds of dollars versus taking it in to Polaris for repair. Cost me about 80 bucks including shipping. I also bought a pack of pump filters -- I now know to replace them at least once a year or two, depending on usage. The only trouble was getting the pump assembly locking ring loose. I bought a tool that straddled the ring and worked, but just barely fit so I had to work extremely slowly because it was jammed up against the steering housing. If you need to do this yourself get the lock ring pliers like the guy uses in the youtube video.

The o-ring that the pump motor presses against was mis-shaped and probably the source of the problem, but I replaced the motor anyway since the replacement seemed more robust. I hope these parts remain available for years to come. I did solder the motor to the factory wires even though the kit came with wires pre-soldered and clips for attachment to existing. Just seemed quick and easy to me. Getting the tank lock ring reinstalled was almost as much of a pain as taking it off, and I soon tired of not having those aforementioned pliers.

I wish to express my thanks to those on this site for posting their experiences and advice, along with those that take the time to video their repairs and help the hordes of us that need someone to hold our hand through the process. You folks rock!!!

I am unsure of the name of the shaft but its the shaft that the oil seal, water pump mechanical and impellar sit on. I have had major issues with a leak since i bought it and when i went to replace the water pump seal i found that the shaft was already broke between the water pump mechanical and the oil seal. So anyone know the name of the part I need to track down to fix this and how difficult is this to replace yourself? I assume it will involve removing the engine? I have a 2002 polaris sportsman 400. Anyone with any advice I would appreciate. I live far in the woods so traveling for repairs would be costly and time consuming. Thanks for the help.