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Anyone know the rough turn around time on an order of new Stage 3 Elka's ?

I got my bumper installed. I found it on eBay. Mfgr is Rival and the seller was 4x4 EuroSpecs, and I had not seen it posted anywhere else on here, so I thought I would toss up my pic and review of it. My bike just fit into the bed of my F150 with my tonneau cover rolled up. So I needed a bumper that stayed higher than the orange reflectors on the front plastics. (That's about where my cover stopped on the bike) If I didn't have the tonneu, I would have had an extra few inches to play with and have gone with one that covered the lower portion of the front as well. This looks much like the Polaris bumper and mounts in the same way, but it goes straight across on the bottom, vs. dipping down like the Polaris brand does. And that is the reason I got it. This one seemed to keep the bar up high, leaving the plastic from the reflector and lower at stock location. Plus it had the mounting tabs for my LED lights.

Overall, I am very happy with it. Shipping was super fast and it came nicely wrapped up. Price was comparable to most of the others I had found. I wish I sat back closer to the plastic, but Is not that bad in person. I think the pictures makes it look like is sticks out further then it really does.

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I have been rebuilding a "00-"02 (can't recall exact model year and frame # too hard to read) TrailBlazer 250 at my highschool with a teacher and we ran into the issue of reinstalling a stock exhaust pipe. We removed the aftermarket one and placed the stock front piece back on correctly but when installing the pipe that runs to the back, It doesn't align properly with the pipe from the motor. It is mounted on the right spot but the gap is too large and the bend doesn't seem right. I've attached some photos below to try and help visually. I've got the exhaust springs as well. There is a bracket the previous owner added which we plan to cut off as well. It isn't on the parts bike that is sitting behind this one.

Thanks,

Jackson

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We are getting engine hot check engine message. The fan is working, impeller is operating and rad is full. 5 years ago we relpaced the ECM and temperature sensor as well as a new cluster. What should the ohm reading be on the temperature sensor?

We are getting engine hot check engine message. The fan is working, impeller is operating and rad is full. 5 years ago we relpaced the ECM and temperature sensor as well as a new cluster. What should the ohm reading be on the temperature sensor?

We are getting engine hot check engine message. The fan is working, impeller is operating and rad is full. 5 years ago we relpaced the ECM and temperature sensor as well as a new cluster. What should the ohm reading be on the temperature sensor?

First question, If mixing fule instead of using oiler do you still need to keep resevor full for oilling anything else?

Second question I put a new battery in that reads 10-13 volts on a meter but still have to hook battery charger up to it to get it to turn over...Any thoughts..

Curious if anyone has had any of the issues I'm having... Brief history...I bought this bike a month ago brand new from the dealer. It was kept inside and had 1 mile on it when I drove it home and I watched the service department put that mile on it while they were doing the "pre-delivery" check. I rode the bike 1 time for 18 miles. The bike was not sunk or anything like that but the radiator cracked and they replaced the radiator under factor warranty the following week. I got the bike back 2 weeks ago and even when I pulled it off my trailer, it started having overheating issues. The bike has never gone into limp mode, but the high-temp light now comes on at 232 degrees when it idles. Prior to the new radiator, the bike never went above 210 degrees, even constantly riding it on trails between 3-10mph. Now, it runs at 210 on average and if I'm not keeping it at 15mph or faster, it will shoot up into the 230's and the overheat light comes on. I have taken the bike in mud that is about a foot deep and washed well each time. The front of the radiator is clean as a whistle. The rear is much more difficult to see, but appears to be clean as well. Against the dealerships advice due to the warranty, I purchased a rad-relocate kit from Wild Bore that I plan to install this week, in hopes this cures the issue, but I don't think it's going to....I think there is an underlying issue. As soon as I get 3 words out of my mouth to the dealer, they start accusing me of abusing the bike, so if I can correct the issue myself, I'd rather do it and not even talk to them, even if I have to spend a few bucks.