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Anybody else with an ACE that plows find the shear pins to be insanely weak? Today was my first time plowing with it, only about 4 or 5 inches but it was mixed with sleet and freezing rain so it was pretty heavy stuff. I broke both ends of the shear pin by merely plowing on my yard. The first side broke when I barely hit a planter by the mailbox, I was moving at maybe 1 or 2 mph. The second side broke just plowing the lawn, I did not hit anything. My ACE is brand new, so I was being very gentle on it as I am learning how to use it.

I ordered a "heavy duty" shear pin off of ebay today and will go the local dealer to get a stock one tomorrow. My old big bear had a cheapie plow that was what I would consider light duty compared to the glacier pro. When I assembled the glacier pro I kept thinking that this system must be 2 or 3 times stronger than my old plow, it certainly weighs 3 or 4 times as much. That plow took some really horrific hit that almost took me off the seat without any major damage.

This is the "heavy duty" pin I ordered https://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Heavy...cb72%7Ciid%3A1

Has anybody had the same issue with their plow or experience with the heavy duty pin?

My Polaris Glacier pro plow consistently want to ride up on top of the hard pack snow left from the county plows. Any ideas on how to prevent this?

I have a 05 atp that the awd 2x4 and turf is not working correctly. When under pressure it seems to not work at all. Was going up an icy Hill and only back wheels spun. Put it up on jacks and all 4 tires engage regardless of what drive it's set in. Going to try and attach a video. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Have checked power and wires all seem good, but one is slightly exposed good power on both sides. Everything in pod seems to work correctly. Speedo and all.

I recently bought a set of Wanda P350 tires. Here’s my initial thoughts and comparisons



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My 96 sportsman from time to time will not shut off with the key. I have checked continuity with meter and switch checks ok. I disconnect the harness while the event is occurring and still wont shut down. I have a R/W, R, BRN,and BLK wires at the harness disconnect. brown has good ground and blk go back to the CDI. Even if I manually ground the blk from the CDI still won't shut down. I have worked through the wiring diagram and found nothing wrong.I have eliminated the rev limiter from the circuit and problem still there. Could I have a bad CDI that is intermittent ?

My 96 sportsman from time to time will not shut off with the key. I have checked continuity with meter and switch checks ok. I disconnect the harness while the event is occurring and still wont shut down. I have a R/W, R, BRN,and BLK wires at the harness disconnect. brown has good ground and blk go back to the CDI. Even if I manually ground the blk from the CDI still won't shut down. I have worked through the wiring diagram and found nothing wrong.I have eliminated the rev limiter from the circuit and problem still there. Could I have a bad CDI that is intermittent ?

I have a stock 2015 570. I am looking for a little more throttle response and power and was wondering about a Power Commander 5.

I put one on my 2010 800 RMK (2 stroke Sled) and it really woke the motor up. The throttle response and power increase was very nice.

Has anyone put a Power Commander 5 on a 570 and what were the results?

Thanks.

So I have a 2008 sportsman 500 ho 2x with efi and the on demand awd. The front dif is messed up. I’m wondering if it’s possible to trade out this awd crap to the old style that engages in the hubs. I have a parts machine that is the old style that has everything on it I’d need. And I own a machine shop/welding shop. I’ve fixed everything else on this bike including all the wiring that was broken up by the handlebars. Everything is now working as it should except the 4x4 system. The switch is working. And I’m getting power/ground down to the plug at the diff. However. I’m not getting any 4x4 lights on the pod. Was told by the previous owner that the dealer said it was the actuator on the diff. Of course they tried to sell them a dif and the labor to do it but he didn’t go for it. Gave it to me instead (long story). Anyway. I’m wondering if the old style magnetic hubs just run off of a constant 12volts when the 4x4 is turned on. Would it be possible to swap this over to the old style diff that is locked in all the time(spinning) and just use the hubs to take it out of 4 wheel drive when needed? Just a thought. I know it sounds like a lot of work. But I like to experiment. And I have all the parts needed. I’ve included a pic of what the bike looked like when I picked it up lol. And a pick of some of the wiring. Wow it was bad. Not cut. But broken. Like the wire jacket is to brittle from the factory. She was a mess. (The reason it was free). It looked like this because some kid said he could fix it for him and then preceaded to leave it out side for a year all taken apart and someone started pulling parts off it. Ugh. One of the other reasons it sat for so long was because they couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t getting spark. I found out it ended up being the pulsar pickup inside the pull start. When the pull start exploded on him it hit the pickup and bent it out of shape. Fixed that and it runs like a top. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to give input on this. Ian

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How are you guys moving your tracked atvs around? I have a 20’ enclosed trailer when I do the big atv trips with multiple machines but would rather toss it in the back of the truck for the quick excursions. I’d love to see some pics if you are running them in the bed of the truck as I’d rather not buy another trailer. Any tricks to keep the front tracks from sitting funny on the wheel wells?

Hey guys, everytime i put it into reverse it seems like i have to use the override button and then when i back up it chugs through it.
It has never died but i was wondering if i am doing something wrong or if it needs to go back to the dealer.
It has 2 hours on it.