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I bought a 1994 trail boss 300 4x4 for a project I am working on and have ran into some issues that I am hoping someone can help me with. First of all, I cannot see that they made a 4x4 trail boss in 1994. Local Polaris store looked it up and confirmed it was a 1994 trail boos 300. Second, the front axles that came on it are splined, but the hilliard clutches I bought for it are keyed. Third, I purchased a set of axles for it, which are keyed (thinking the previous owner was trying to swap parts and had put the wrong axles on it) but the keyed axles I now have are to short. Guess I should have done more research into what I have before I started ordering parts.

I only have half the model number (W948...)
The vin is *2312459*

I don't know if someone was trying to Frankenstein the front end or what, but I need to figure out what I should have so I can order parts. Hopefully someone here can help me out. Thanks in advance.

Just picked up a polaris 250 was told it's a 93 trailblazer. I've looked for a vin to verify this info all I can find is a 7 digit number stamped on a plate welded to the frame on left side front of motor. I'm also gonna need some mechanical advice as it doesn't run. It has spark and will turn over but will not start on starter fluid sprayed in intake.

Hello everyone! I have a 2011 Polaris Sportsman 500 carb with 336.2 hours and 4439 miles, I’m having an issue with the atv bogging and backing firing sometimes when letting off the throttle after holding it at 3/4-full throttle for a short time cruising down back roads so it’s not really under much load, it only bogs and back fires for around 10 seconds then it gains its power back and runs as normal until I get back on the throttle for a while again, I’ve checked the valves and they are in spec, something I’ve noticed this past summer right before the bogging issue started is it seems to burn oil slightly, I ride about 2-5 times a month in the summer and have to put a little oil in it once every 1-2 months to keep it between the lines, something i noticed today was at the very bottom of the dipstick the oil looks milky which is new because I check the oil just about every time I ride, after seeing that I checked the coolent level and that seems fine, I do ride in a good amount of water sometimes but not usually over the dipstick, other notes are the air filter is original but I cleaned it not to long ago and the fuel filter and spark plug are both original as well, I plan on changing that stuff soon because of the high mileage, and the carb has never been off and cleaned the atv is a bomber sorta speak but still in fair condition so I’d like to keep it running good, I keep it maintained but probably not as good as I should, it also seems to lack power over all a little, and I’ve also replaced my belt probably 400 miles ago and looked over the clutches which seem to be working fine My guess on all of this is a blown head gasket or base gasket but the atv doesn’t smoke, I’m pretty good at understanding and working on 2 strokes and some 4 strokes so i think I can replace the head and base gasket, I’ve seen rebuild kits on eBay that come with the jug, piston, rings, cam chain tensioner, and the gaskets for around $120 I’m wondering if that would be worth doing or if those cheap Chinese parts will probably kick the bucket real fast I’m just trying to get it running like it used to without putting a ton of money into it because as I said it’s a bomber. Sorry if this is all long and confusing I’m just trying to give you as much info as possible so maybe I can get these issues sorted out, thanks!!

I have a 1999 Sportsman 335 and the solid state relay LR-60, part number 4010164 is bad -- it seems to be melting and the machine will not run. The fan comes on as soon as the key is turned on and machine will not start. It has spark. The relay is not available any longer as far as I can tell. Has anyone found a work-around for this problem? The machine is like new and only has about 500 miles on it. The problem started about a year ago and presented itself as just poor running, although it started easily, then got progressively worse to the point where it will not start or run at all anymore.

I changed the carb, but that made no difference.

Any suggestions on what to try next?

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,
MomPack

I noticed that when its real cold the ignition key is kinda hard to turn to start, almost like its got cold grease in it ...I don't want to spray WD in it or anything that may short something....

Hi I have a problem with my Polaris 50 the starter is spinning but it's not engaging I bought a new starter put that in but obviously that was not the problem please help!

Need some input from other riders to solve two issues i really dislike with my 2018 Ottty MAX 1000 XT-P.

My bike is an European T3 tractor, and I will try to list this spesial applications.
- Engine is a 1000 EFI, 82 hp, no 1000R
- ABS brakes
- Electronic throttle, like the Ski-Doo ACE snowmobiles
- O2 sensor in exhaust

The two issues i really dislike are the clutch engagement, and hot LH side.

I know that the 2019 Otty have the ITC to reduce the harsh clutch engagement. To modify my 2018 to 2019 will include a lot of money. New thottle and throttle body, new ECU, and new wiring. New primary clutches from STP or QSC have no engine brakes at low speed, CVTech clutch is to noisy.

- Is it possible to connect a potmeter to the throttle wiring to adjust the throttle sensitivity?

To cure the hot LH side installing a fuel tuner is not an option due to the stock O2 sensor in exhaust. The tuner and OEM O2 sensors will fight each other.

My name is Luke, I own a 2013 Can Am Outlander 650 with a good bit of work done to it, as soon as I can i will get some pics up etc. Look forward to chatting more soon.

I posted a previous thread on motor lock up related to decompression release. I tried adjusting the valves. I’m still having the problem with engine locking up when starting. Seems to be related to colder ambient temps but since I can’t get the engine started and it’s winter, no comparison. Does the ball act to crack open the exhaust or intake valve?

I understand the likely problem is wear on the small ball that rides under the cam shaft. I’ve searched for replacement cams but don’t see the before mentioned “ball” coming with the cam. do they simply “go together”? Also is it normal for these to wear with only 300hrs on the motor? It’s well maintained. Can I replace the cam with the motor in the ATV?

I haven’t looked at the decompression “lever”. Assume it’s on the left side?