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As the title says, I have not 1, but 2, '15 570s - neither will perform, or run long enough to put in gear. We will label these as 570A and 570B.

Both bikes have under 350 miles on them. Customer brought them in saying 570A will start but die after about 5 seconds and/or if trying to hit the throttle pretty good. 570B customer says is giving engine code and only sometimes starts but dies within 1 or 2 seconds.

Both bikes came in with weak batteries. Both bikes now have new batteries in them. (I have seen EFI bikes do CRAZY stuff with bad batteries and I replace them and everything good as gold. NOT in this case!)

-570A does not throw any codes. Ever. Pretty much starts up anytime at any second but will only idle about 10 -seconds, or will die immediately if giving good amount of throttle off idle. I believe this one is a fuel pump. I am in the process of building a tester adapter so I can test the line @ the fuel rail so I don't have to pull front plastic off at this time just to get to pump outlet. I have also ruled out ECU failure by swapping ECUs between bikes. Same symptom every time. (Hmm, i could probably swap fuel tanks to see if it makes a difference, if I get bored? Lol)



-570B throws error code 0-636-2 (Crank Sensor - Plausibility Fault). What in God's name am i supposed to do with that? (0-636-8 is erratic or missing signals, that one would be easier to diagnose, but noooooo.. I get the difficult one!) I have swapped Crank Sensors, ECUs, followed wiring harness from ECU pins back to the Crank Sensor connector. (I even probed AFTER connector just to be sure I was getting a reading through the connector (seen that a few times). Everything checked out. I have continuity everywhere I am supposed to. Sensor resistance IN-SPEC. The only other thing I can think of is a sheared flywheel key.. but like I said itll start every so often, so I wouldn't thing that is it.. or else the ECU would never know where the crank is and it would nevver start. Just for giggles I pulled the plug and it was wet. I guess from being in limp mode or whatever. I have cleared the ECU several times by putting it on 570A so it can start and run and see the crank sensor is OK. Then i re-install on 570B and IMMEDIATELY code shows again, so it knows something is up as soon as key is on and it runs quick diag.

Stumped on 570B. I think I have 570A figured out, just need to test pump. Any ideas?

No its not under any type of warranty. Both bikes have good fuel, clean air filters, the right amount of oil, new batteries, clean plugs. ( I know how some of you "is the TV even plugged in" guys are Lol! No, I dont have any Software neither..

Thanks Guys.
Xtreme Offroad LLC Athens AL
Brad

I am looking at making my first ATV purchase with a 2018 Polaris 570 EPS model. My question is are the standard stock tires going to work fine for snow plowing or should I spend the extra money up front to get upgraded tires?

I am not much of a trail guy, so it will just be used for pushing some snow and utility work around the farm.

Any other add-on or upgrades you all would recommend? Hand warmers, etc?

Thanks!

06 sportsman 500 efi I stripped the nut on my flywheel does anyone know the size

Hi guys, I have a 2013 outlander 500 non-dps, does anybody know by chance if the OEM BRP full aluminum skidplates will bolt on in the same fashion to a 2018 outlander 1000 XT? rear trailing arms, front a-arms, front bash plate and full body plate? I couldn't really tell by looking under the two of them it was hard. Want to know if I should take the set off and keep them for my new bike or sell them with the 500.

Thank you!!!

Posting for a friend who recently purchased a 2014 Polaris Scramber 1000. Machine appeared mint with less then 300 miles and 30 hours. Took the machine trail riding and it’s burning oil. Rode around 75 miles and was a quart low. Not burning out of the pipes but did have a little oil residue in air box. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... it’s probably a far shot but would Polaris do anything with this due to machine having extremely low miles & hours and now oil burning issues?

Thanks in advance for any imput!

Posting for a friend who recently purchased a 2014 Polaris Scramber 1000. Machine appeared mint with less then 250 miles and 30 hours. Took the machine trail riding and it’s burning oil. Rode around 75 miles and was a quart low. Not burning out of the pipes but did have a little oil residue in air box. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... it’s probably a far shot but would Polaris do anything with this due to machine having extremely low miles & hours and now oil burning issues?

Thanks in advance!

What is the easiest way to tell if you have a worn cam on 2002 Sportsman 700? It runs fine up to mid rpm range then bogs and if I hold my hand in front of carb without air cleaner I get some gas blowing out of the carb when it bogs. Been thru carb, new fuel pump, new plugs and compression is 150 psi on each cylinder. Would a weak valve spring cause this?

What is the easiest way to tell if you have a worn cam on 2002 Sportsman 700? It runs fine up to mid rpm range then bogs and if I hold my hand in front of carb without air cleaner I get some gas blowing out of the carb when it bogs. Been thru carb, new fuel pump, new plugs and compression is 150 psi on each cylinder. Would a weak valve spring cause this?

So my son's belt exploded on the dunes. When looking at the primary and secondary both sheaves on the inside have belt belt melted on them but nothing on the outside. This makes little sense to me. The quad was driving perfect when it just stopped. The belt only had about 5 hours on it at the most.

On the primary drive the hot belt melted the rollers flat on one side and melted the bumpers on it as well. The only clutch modification is the 1,500 RPM spring assembly for the secondary.

I am at a loss as to why the belt would melt on one side of the sheaves and not the other. I was hoping for answers before I put it all back together with a new belt.

Long story short, I bought a 2004 sportsman 500, with a botched top end job. So I bored a factory cylinder, and oversized piston. When I had it apart I noticed the connecting rod had up/down play. So I split the case and replaced the crank with a good used crank off of eBay. Anyway, I get it all together and noticed I was getting metal in the oil. Took it back apart, and found the used crankshaft was missing the washer off the side (excess endplay, and I also replaced the timing chain as a precaution. Anyway, I'm still getting a lil metal in the oil on the magnetic drain plug. It could be old, but I could swear I hear chain noise/chain rattling from the passenger side case. All the guides were good. Am I missing something here??