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I posted another thread about a week ago but it has died so I thought I would try a new one. There's a fall festival this weekend that I would really like to ride in.

On my last ride, I lost all my brakes, as in the lever went to the handlebar and didnt stop. I got home and realized fluid was pumping from the upper reservoir to the foot brake reservoir and vice versa when I pumped either brake. I replaced all pads and my rear caliper, and it didnt help. Fluid is still pumping between the two reservoirs and I have no resistance at the levers. I agreed with the advice that I got here, in that the only place the fluid from the upper and lower systems meet is at the rear caliper. So I'm wondering if I could have gotten a bad caliper, or if a bad master cylinder could cause the same symptoms? I am removing the masters right now to try visually inspecting them but would love some advice on what could cause this. I have bled the brakes with a mighty vac, and even tried a zip tie on the foot brake overnight to get any air out. The brakes bleed fine, and they do grab when I squeeze the lever, just not enough to provide resistance at the lever. I would think that SOME resistance should be there if everything was working properly but I still had air in the system. I also hear a bubbly sound in the rear caliper when I push the foot brake. Its faint, but I hear something in there whether its air or just fluid moving.

I had planned on changing the hub fluid tonight and riding tomorrow for the first time. Only problem is no one stocks this fluid locally. The one Polaris dealer does not sell it and only offers their services to change the fluid.
I have read that Amsoil ATF may be a equal replacement but am not 100% confident yet. My machine is a 1997 Sportsman 500 and the documentation I have read suggests only using part number 2871654 Premium Demand Drive Fluid. Can anyone offer suggestions about the Amsoil ATF for my vehicle please?

Had a great time riding with a bunch of friends the weekend before last. The Sportsman 570 did great.


:grin

Hi all,
I am considering purchasing a sportsman ATV. I am new to ATV's. Have a 2006 Yamaha 450F dirt bike and 2013 RXR 900XP Walker Evans edition 2 seater.

I could try and sell RZR and look for 4 seater or buy a ATV for wife or I to ride with RZR.

Questions:

1. Is the SP suspension with dual A-Arm and more clearance that much better than standard Sportsman with McPherson strut? I am a bit spoiled by the plush suspension on the RZR so I want to get the best riding ATV.

2. I have the original XP 900 27x9x12 and 27x12x12 big horn tires on Polaris Black crusher wheels. Will those bolt up to a 570 or 850 Sportsman?

3. I ride at high altitude 6000 ft - 8000 ft mostly but sometimes 10000 ft. Is the 570 enough? Is the 850 based on the RZR XP900 engine?

4. I wouldn't mind buying a clean used model. I have a 78.8" long standard bed truck, I could possibly get tailgate closed if I buy or make wheel lifts to raise front of atv?

Am planning to purchase a Maverick Sport DPS in the next 6 months or so. Is it worth $1500 to get the 100HP 1000R or is the 75HP version enough for normal trail riding. Is the new flip up windshield durable and worth the $1000 price tag?? Thanks for all replies.

Did a Forum SEARCH but nothing there..
Can I do an engine "FOG" by simply pulling my UNI air filter and applying the oil"spray" thru the airbox intake ?
Has anyone actually done this ? How -long- would you spray ?

I have had a base model 2016 scrambler 850 I bought new a few years ago and I am thinking about upgrading the shocks. I don't want to spend a shit ton of money. I do mainly trail and mud riding.

Any thoughts? Maybe just upgrade to the fox shocks? Are they that much better??

Hey guys!

New to the forum and Polaris ATVs.

I have a 2010 Sportman 850 XP that I have had loads of issues with. First it started backfiring and got to a point it wouldn't run. Fuel pump ended up being the culprit. Replaced fuel pump, new spark plugs, and changed oil ran like a top other than an intermittent engine code related to the throttle cable. Adjusted throttle cable and still has codes however, found if you played with wires going into thumb throttle assembly code would go away and it runs fine. Ran it like this 2 weekends in a row and it ran great, if codes come up move the wires and keep on riding.

Now all of a sudden this past weekend ran into more issues. While riding everything was going good then a backfire through the intake began occurring. Looked down and the spark plug wire was laying on the exhaust, ok needs a new wire. Replaced the wire seemed to run ok for about an hour then it got worse. Now we are at the point the engine fires right up and idles great but if you give it any throttle at all it begins backfiring through the intake and dies. First started would only do it in gear now it does it in neutral or park also. Anything above about 1800 rpms causes this. We have run both wet and dry compression test with throttle wide open. Dry test resulted in 165# wet test resulted in 180# consistent on both cylinders. From what I've read this is low for this bike but there is zero oil consumption and no noticeable power loss (before it stopped running above 1800 rpms). I'm at a complete loss here aside from rebuilding the entire top end. Currently trying to replace the pigtail off the thumb throttle assembly and have the ECM flashed.

Could this be that the engine is in limp mode due to the throttle assembly wiring? Something else? Any other test I can run?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

-Ridge