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Posting for a friend who recently purchased a 2014 Polaris Scramber 1000. Machine appeared mint with less then 250 miles and 30 hours. Took the machine trail riding and it’s burning oil. Rode around 75 miles and was a quart low. Not burning out of the pipes but did have a little oil residue in air box. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... it’s probably a far shot but would Polaris do anything with this due to machine having extremely low miles & hours and now oil burning issues?

Thanks in advance!

What is the easiest way to tell if you have a worn cam on 2002 Sportsman 700? It runs fine up to mid rpm range then bogs and if I hold my hand in front of carb without air cleaner I get some gas blowing out of the carb when it bogs. Been thru carb, new fuel pump, new plugs and compression is 150 psi on each cylinder. Would a weak valve spring cause this?

What is the easiest way to tell if you have a worn cam on 2002 Sportsman 700? It runs fine up to mid rpm range then bogs and if I hold my hand in front of carb without air cleaner I get some gas blowing out of the carb when it bogs. Been thru carb, new fuel pump, new plugs and compression is 150 psi on each cylinder. Would a weak valve spring cause this?

So my son's belt exploded on the dunes. When looking at the primary and secondary both sheaves on the inside have belt belt melted on them but nothing on the outside. This makes little sense to me. The quad was driving perfect when it just stopped. The belt only had about 5 hours on it at the most.

On the primary drive the hot belt melted the rollers flat on one side and melted the bumpers on it as well. The only clutch modification is the 1,500 RPM spring assembly for the secondary.

I am at a loss as to why the belt would melt on one side of the sheaves and not the other. I was hoping for answers before I put it all back together with a new belt.

Long story short, I bought a 2004 sportsman 500, with a botched top end job. So I bored a factory cylinder, and oversized piston. When I had it apart I noticed the connecting rod had up/down play. So I split the case and replaced the crank with a good used crank off of eBay. Anyway, I get it all together and noticed I was getting metal in the oil. Took it back apart, and found the used crankshaft was missing the washer off the side (excess endplay, and I also replaced the timing chain as a precaution. Anyway, I'm still getting a lil metal in the oil on the magnetic drain plug. It could be old, but I could swear I hear chain noise/chain rattling from the passenger side case. All the guides were good. Am I missing something here??

Hi guys just joined today and are eager to learn more about these can ams heres my atv 2015 can am outlander 1000 xmr

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Hi guys and gals, I have a very weird occurrence with my 2015 can am outlander 1000 xmr front differential, when i put it in 4Lo or 4Hi all 4 wheels do not turn however when I put it into Reverse all 4 wheels do turn. So I was wondering whether I need the whole front diff replaced or some component inside it, any and all will be much appreciated!

Thanks

I just restored an older Trail Boss 250 this is my seven digit vin 1462699 any help with this

Can anyone give me a link to where all of the large black ground wires go on this thing? Also any link to a wiring diagram other then the one in the manual? Thx

Recently purchased 2013 Sportmens. This is only my 2nd ATV and i'm not overly mechanical, but it's little hard to shift compared to Suzuki Eiger I had previously. I was going to adjust the idle screw as ATV idles at about 1450, but it's about the same to shift when running or not running. However, cannot easily locate the idle screw. Not really hard to shift, but harder than I expected. I've changed the motor oil and trans fluid about a week ago when I got the ATV. ATV has 31 hours and 750 miles if that helps. Maybe this is just the way this Polaris shifts. Thanks for any input.