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Hello All,

I had a breif look on the forum but couldn't find this topic posted. I am running Apache 360 LTs on my outlander 1000 and find that my belt slips almost right away. The problem only gets worse as the season goes on. I have moved to a maverick belt but that didn't help. Any suggestions on clutch work that might help? Any of you guys out there do clutch work before installing tracks or does everyone just run the stock setup?

Hello Everyone:

I have a 2018 Can Am Defender HD10. Is there a special tool I will need to change out drive belt when the time comes to change it.

I pulled the belt cover off and I do not see how to release tension on secondary clutch.

Thanks
kenner

My 700 sportsman began bogging badly and when I pulled the carb off I found the spring on top of the main jet diaphragm sideways. I replaced it correctly and cleaned the entire carb out and now it is doing the same thing. It will run fine for about 1/4 throttle but as you accelerate it begins to bog and occasionally backfires. I have bypassed the fuel pump by running a fuel line from the tank to the carb. There seems to be a lot of blow by coming from the crankcase vent that goes to the air box. The atv has been very well cared for, not modified or run hard. The guy who owns it is older and never ran it over 25 mph if I had to guess. Always stored inside. I have run it with the air box off and tried to look inside the carb and it doesn't seem that the slide for the main jet is moving very much, not sure how much it should move. I have pulled the choke out when it bogs and it doesn't help. When it bogs down there is a strong smell of gasoline. My next step is to do compression test. Please help me..............

I turn the key and I get nothing I checked with them altimeter and do have power to the fuse box I do have power to the DC ignition cigarette lighter however there is no power to the instrument display. I have power to cigarette lighter , and ignition switch just no power to panel ? Also no fuel pump activity nothing ,,, sorry if I repeated my self just stuck

Gas is dripping out of the vent tube that hangs out the bottom of the skid plate. I put gas in the tank and it drips out of the tube until it is empty. What would cause this to happen?

I am new to the forums, but not new to ATV's, rode my friends machines occasionally and finally decided to take the plunge with this project.
The story:
3100 km 497 hrs on machine, factory winch and work lights, green plastics.
Advertised as a 2005 but was built in late November 2005 and I can't find a 2005 500 with EFI but there is a 2006 500 EFI. It is a Canadian model if that makes a difference, is that what is referred to as an International model when looking up parts?
Just bought this yesterday, knowing that the seller did disclose a noise at higher speeds beforehand but tried to tell me it was just the belt, so as it happens there was a brand new Polaris drive belt included in the sale, apparently he hoped I would take his word, go home, change belt and all good... right?
So I go for a very short test ride, noticed that the trans would make the noise when in high gear taking off from a stop with light throttle application. Low gear fine, reverse fine, rolls easily in neutral, and park holds.
I said " I'll change the belt here and now, and if it still pops out its not the belt is it?" He agreed (sort of) and I changed the belt, which took about half an hour start to finish, (thanks Youtube) most of that time messing with the cover and vent ducting going back together, it's sure a lot easier to replace the belt on a sled!
So belt changed, trans still does same thing. I am not surprised. I pull the trans drain plug, there's oil but its a little dark. I mention the cost of a new trans and the likelihood of selling the machine to anyone else in its condition.
I buy it for a very good price, take it home and start researching. Haven't torn into it yet. I think its either worn dogs on the high gear, or the high/reverse engagement dog. Possibly a bent high/reverse shift fork or damaged groove in the shift drum where the high/reverse shift fork contacts it.
Without tear down I won't know for sure, but could a very loose final drive chain/worn tensioner shoe also give the same symptoms? I just am not sure if the chain would skip in high range but not low range. All the other gears seem to work properly.
Priced out the gear and engagement dog, about $200.
Is it common for these parts to fail at such a low mileage?
Thanks for your time.

Gear shifter is super loose stuck in gear just wiggles around like it’s not connected to anything please help me out on how to fix

Thought I would share some information that I just learned.

I just pulled my engine/gearbox out because of a failure on the rear drive shaft, and I thought that there may be damage inside the gear box. I opened up the gear box and found nothing wrong, but I was able to identify where the clunk sound is coming from after you shift into a new gear. On the top of the shift drum assembly is the index washer (kind of looks like a 5 pointed star), alongside that is the index lever with a roller on one end that goes into the indents of the index washer with a strong spring for tension pushing the roller into the indents. When you shift the shift drum is turned and the index lever is pushed away and then starts to go into the next indent. The clunk that many people have complained about is when that index lever has started to go into the next indent but does not go all the way and then when you start to give it some throttle it clicks the rest of the way into the indent and makes that heavy clunk sound. I don’t see any way to remedy this, sometimes the index lever will slip in the way it should and then the next time it won’t, but the good news is that it does not appear to be causing any damage.