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Good morning everyone,
Last night after work I was going to change the fluid in the hubs. The sportsman would grab hard to the right at times and I read where it may be caused by lack or no fluid in the hub assembly.
Took the right hub cap off and there was no fluid in the hub. When I went to look at the hub drain plug to identify which torque bit I would need I found it had been damaged, please see the photos. I cleaned it out as best as possible and attempted to fit a torque bit in but no luck each one spun out and I didn't want to damage it any further so I pulled the hub cap off and added a little bit of fluid that way.
The other side is just as badly damaged, so I ordered two new oem hub drain plugs this morning.

My question is, how can I get the old ones out? I tried heat but was worried about getting the hub too hot and possibly damaging an interior component. I tried to tap in the torque bits but they just spun. There is not enough material above the hub to catch onto with a vice grips to turn. Looks like either I will need to tap them with a chisel or drill them and use an EZ Out tool to help break them free.

Any other suggestions for this situation?

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Picked up a new to me ride a couple of weeks ago, with trans issues price was reflecting that, but with a bit of saturday morning stripping, removed trans and tore it apart, now have parts on order and am looking forward to reassembly when parts arrive. Planning on reassembling with my son. Looking forward to riding and teaching him how to ride and wrench too.

My daughter bought this used 07 outlander 800 HO a year ago and it has been a pig. I pulled the rad and cleaned a fair bit of dirt out of it and mounted it on a rad relocate. This helped a bit with the over heating, not getting the warning light any more but running really hot. Hard to start unless I let it cool down for a bit after running. I went to check the thermostat and found it had been taken out. I assume at this point the previous owner had the same problem and removed it in an attempt to fix the problem. Then the front diff got loose, I heard a bad grinding when Applying the brakes. Further inspection showed the diff rocking back and forth when shifting forward and reverse. I tightened the diff mounting nuts and was okay for a few days and now it's back. So tomorrow the plan is to pull the diff and check the studs and mounting holes for wear then check the water pump for damage.
I found the remains of what looks like a plow mount attached the the foot wells instead of the chassis. This has had the effect of shifting the foot wells backwards almost 2 inches causing the plastics in this area to have multiple cracks and splits. When she first got it home I had to do the clutch bearing, brakes a front wheel bearing replace the idle control valve and clean the throttle body. Overall appearance is kinda rough and had I been with her when she went to get it I would have passed on it, oh well it is what it is and I get to fix it, lol.

Hi guys long time reader first time poster. I have a 2007 can am outlander 800 I noticed it was leaking coolant out of the weeping hole took my cover off to replace seal and noticed the impeller was rubbing on the housing, now 2 things I noticed was the impeller wasn’t threaded in flush to the shaft it still had 4-5 threads and second it looked like the seal was cock eyed on the shaft I had A mechanic Replace the seal around 300km ago that’s why I’m not understanding why it was leaking and why it is rubbing? I grabbed the shaft and tried to pull it towards me it would not budge but I can push it in about 1/2 inch is this normal or is my shaft screwed? Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

Just ordered Ricochete skids and a arm guards for our new rides. I stepped up to the black anodized for both the 1000 and 850. I opted out of the floor board skids, I’ve never had them and haven’t had an issue. We went with standard aluminum with out the extra plastic plating. How well do the a arm guards follow the a arm? My only concern is loss of ground clearance, but the rep said they are tight to the a arms.

I’m ordering tires for our new XP1000 and SP850. We like to trail ride fast but do play in the mud as well on occasion. I was going to get Bearclaw HTR’s in 26 inch height but now I’m considering going taller to gain clearance. It looks like the next size up in Bearclaws is a 28 inch. Has anyone run these with stock clutching? They spec out much lighter then my pit bulls and my son ran them on his 570 and went everywhere I did with ease. I’m just not sure I want 28’s. I also looked at Grim Reapers in 27 inch and they are way more money and weigh about the same. How is handling on the 28 inch Tires? We will be outing them on stock rims.

I'm gonna be sticking a cvtech on my outlander. Had two quick questions about install. Does anyone know torque amount for clutch bolt, and are guys using blue thread lock? I've read 74 ft/lbs, 89 ft/lbs and I've read your supposed to use thread lock and that you dont need to. I've popped my primary on my sleds a million times and never used thread lock. Machine is a Outlander 570. Thanks

I have the E displayed on my transmission indicator also the engine light flashes off and on, wondering what would be the problem , would like to fix it myself. Any body familiar with this problem ?

I was recently riding and rode about 3 hours with no problems, on the way back to truck was on the road and was running about half throttle, then pushed throttle all the way and got two backfires and it died when i came to a stop it started right back up and ran fine the 10 minutes back to the truck with no problems. got back home and hasnt started back since. I have checked and i am not getting any spark at coil, changed coil to a new one and still nothing. checked and switched out key switch as well and checked fuses and relays and cant find the culprit. when switched on i hear the fuel pump come on for a few seconds and go back off and i dont see any codes displayed. Any help is greatly appriciated

I have a 2009 Outlander 800r and I had a timing chain go bad and fill my engine with lots and lots of plastic shavings from the guides. I have torn the engine down, split the case, cleaned out all of the passages, oil pump screen, etc. New crank, rods, bearings, timing chains, guides, the works. Fired it up this afternoon and let it run for several minutes, no error messages or anything. Made some adjustments, fired it back up and within 60 seconds, it went into limp mode and displayed "Check Engine Low Oil". I'm lost here. It has fresh oil that comes up right on the full mark on the dipstick. Why am I getting this message? Right now, I'm afraid to fire it back up.