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Looking for some advice here, I'm torn between a new non-DPS Outlander 850 at $9000 and an Outlander XT 1000R at $12,750 (I can't stand the orange on the Outlander DPS 1000R)
Is the 1000R really worth the extra $3750 (and the bumpers and shit from the XT)? I don't really care for DPS my current 500 doesn't have it, just one extra thing to break. I will doing a full mud build on it with rad relocate, snorkels, 29.5" tires, RJWC exhaust, RJWC tuner, 2-3" lift and most importantly a QSC primary (is a secondary worth it for mud riding?)

We do a decent amount of trail riding, but I love the mud and will go out of my way to find any, good bit of winter riding too, plowing, etc. I love power, and want to know how much of a difference you guys think the 850 is from the 1000R. I can throw that $3750 into the mods and save heaps, but if that extra ~10HP is that big of a difference I'll drop the extra cash lol. Just want to know what you guys think, thank you!!!

edit: I also want the short chassis, does anybody know if the 1000R XT has the short chasis? The 850 Outlander non-dps does I presume right?

oops... somehow made two threads, my bad please delete

Hey guys new owner of a 13 renegade xxc 1000. Well today I had a belt pop. Very old and was cracking in between the bottom teeth. Well I had a guy tell me to get a 8x1.25 bolt so i did well i screwed it into the secondary and the bolt stopped and wouldnt go any further. So I tried to back it out well it would come out. So I had to take secondary off drill out the bolt. Well the threads are very light and almost non existent. Well now i have to re tap it. Can I use one of the other holes or maybe both to get an even push to open the back side up more and evenly? So the biggest question is can I tap the other holes to 8x1.25?

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The last two rides my 1000XP has developed a shake in the front end, starts at around 49 MPH and get worse the faster I go. I am going to pull the wheels and start with a visual inspection of the components I can see. I hope I can see something obvious.


Anyone have a suggestion as to what to check first if I don't see anything?

just acquired this and want to change the oil before i use it. the book says SAE 5w30. i have no idea what the last guy put in it, but is plain old 5w30 the best to use as per mfg? or are ppl using something better? it has 2000 miles. i believe this model uses the same oil for engine and gearbox (hoping oil change helps some w/ hard shifting as i had read it does for some).


thanks.

Have an 02 325 Trail Boss that I have a couple questions?
The compression release shaft has a small spring on it that I thought was broke. Ordered a new one and it’s the same. Just a wrapped up spring without ends to hook onto anything. The weighted end of the compression release at the cam sprocket just flops around. All the compression releases I’ve ever seen that had a spring, the spring has ends that hook onto something. To hold the compression release on until centrifugal force overcomes the spring to throw it off. What is the engineering idea on this one? The spring really doesn’t do anything?
And what is the valve setting on this engine?
Thanks for your help here

i just acquired a 2008 400 efi xt w/ 2000 miles. i had read about shifting problems (has it - for another thread) and the bad brakes. the problem i have is, the hand lever has like 1mm of movement from off to full on. it moves so little, i can barely apply the parking brake. is this normal? adjustable?


the foot brake does not work at all. i presume the master cylinder is bad. the pedal actuates the cylinder, it just doesn't do anything. finally, applying the brakes does not allow me to start it in gear. i presume that there is a 'brake applied' sensor somewhere that is either bad or not activating?


thanks for any advice.

Hello,

I have a 2015 Sportsman etx 325cc that failed on me today. I was going down a trail and it just the engine bogged down and quit like the fuel was cut off.

It will fire back up but it is hard to keep it running. It will only get up to 2500 rpm while running like crap and you have to blip the throttle to get it there. It will only hold 2500 for a few seconds before dieing out. While it's trying to run like this the engine has a slight backfire popping noise and it shakes. Runs the same with air intake off. Runs the same with fuel tank cap off. Tried to run hours after it cooled down and it does the same thing. Will not move under its own power.
Suspecting a bad spark plug or tps, need advice.

Has fresh 93 octane gas. Ran 20 miles today before this happened.

Thanks all.

Is there an adjustment for the steering, or would I have to adjust both tie-rods? This is a new sportsman 450 that I finally took out on the road today. I never noticed it before, but only have a few hours on it, so today was a surprise.

changed starter machine will now start but makes loud clicking like starter is not disengaging