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I'm replacing the stock shocks on my 2018, 1000 XP with the stage 4 Elka’s. Anyone out there done this and have some feedback on the ride? Better? Worse? No change?
Thanks!

Considering putting Elka Stage 4 shocks on my 2018 1000 XP. Anyone run these?
Reviews? Opinions?

I have a 08 Outlander 800 Max Xt 2up and after a short ride and the engine is warm it has a hard time starting back up if I stop for a bit. Acts like the battery is week but I know it’s not cause when I first start it it’s fine. Any ideas would be great.

Hello everyone, I’m new here and looking forward to the forums.
I just purchased a 2018 Polaris 850sp Touring. This is my first ATV! I can’t wait to pick it up and hit the trails!

Hello, I have a 1990’s Trail Boss 4X4 350L and a 2001 Trailblazer 250.
I am looking to take a trail ride in the near future with a friend who has a Honda Recon 250 (we have a small space to ride around the house which we are thankful for, but we are looking forward to the trail ride where we will be able to go for several hours without “covering the same ground”...)

I'm working on this for my cousin and when I got it the drive was stuck and it wouldn't shift. It was full of belt dust. I removed it and cleaned it up. The rollers are now free and I put new buttons in it. I reassembled it and the clutch now works fine. The issue now is the unit still creeps when engaging the shifter. Like the belt is to tight or something. I've never delt with these clutches before. I did also lower the idle to try that. I am stumped as to what else could be the issue unless the belt shrunk or something. What could be my problem?

So I recently acquired a 95' Xplorer. This is my 2nd Xplorer. First one I've had for 4-5 years now, and really like it. This recently acquired one I brought into the shop yesterday, and looked over. I greased it, lubed chains, checked the CB oil, sealed up the typical crack in the air box, checked over the intake boots, (replaced one of those) and just gave it a pretty good once over. 4WD works flawlessly, but I'm gonna pickup some hub fluid today, and change it out. Transmission was full of nasty oil, so that's on the list too. Needs a battery, and most of the lighting system replaced. Charging system seems to work. Electric start does not(possibly because of the battery situation) The bike seems to run like a champ, it just appears largely, to be in pretty rough shape cosmetically. Also seems like it's been neglected maintenance-wise for awhile.

The top end appears to have been apart fairly recently, and the previous owner informed me that the oil injection system, is disconnected, and that he had been running pre-mix in the tank. My other bike has the oil injection system intact, and has performed flawlessly since I've owned it, so I'm inclined to take this one apart and try to get it working again. Since I'm not certain of the state of things inside the oil pump housing, I'm planning on pulling the oil pump from the engine for a complete disassembly, and inspection. I've read several threads on what guys typically do to eliminate this system, and am anticipating having to scrounge/find/purchase a few parts along the way. Also have a manual, and read the oil pump section. Assuming the oil pump was just run dry(judging by the rest of the bike, this is what I suspect he meant by the oil injection system was "disconnected") what all is necessary to get it back up and running? Is it just a rotating group inside the pump? Or does it typically ruin the housing, to where a guy should just start over with a different pump?

This machine is mainly intended to pull plow duty on my place. It'll be chained up on all fours, for pretty well the remainder of its life, so if the oil pump thing looks like it's gonna be a huge deal, I'll just pre-mix fuel for it. My other machine went through 4 tanks of fuel behind the plow last winter, so it not a huge deal that I get the injector going, but would make it nicer. And, just in case I don't happen to be the one fueling it, It doesn't get mistaken for the machine with the functioning injection system.

On the machine I've owned for a bit, it's getting due for a set of tires. Of course the 10" wheels in the back are limiting my choices. I do have a brand new set of STI wheels, on hand. I'm fully capable of building adapter/spacers, and or re-centering these to fit this machine(they came off a 570 RZR) And I've seen a few aftermarket wheels that would bolt up the hubs, but are 12". Also I read up on the Predator hub mod. But I see some cheaper, decent looking tires on eBay in the 10" size. I was just wondering if anybody has tried the Sunf, or Wanda brand tires? Are they any good? Flatten out pretty good, when aired down? I like to ride a lot in the winter/early spring, but I don't have tracks. I need something with a pretty big footprint. Most of those cheaper tires don't indicate they're radials so, I figure they must be bias plies, with a presumably smaller footprint(unless they flatten out really good)?

Dylan

Looking to put my battery tender on my 2019 Outlander Max XT. Wondering if anyone had any crafty ideas about charging harness cable routing from the battery under the seat to a external location for plug in. My previous bike (Polaris) had a terminal block conveniently located for mounting the ring terminal charging harness. I ran it up through the headlight pod, and it was easy to access to plug in the battery tender. Does the Outlander have a better location I should be considering? Would like to set it up so that it can easily be put on the battery tender without having to remove any parts.

Based in Haiti I drive an 2017 X3 XRS and after 165 hours over 3000kms I noticed false reading with my fuel gage, who can suggest a solution

Hey all,
I've searched the forum in hopes of finding a service manual for a 2006 Outlander 400 non-max. All the links seem dead. Anyone have a copy they can share with me?

Thanks,