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Hey guys I've tried everything I can think of here....
-Both bleed screws several times
- jacking the bike up
- cap on
-cap off
-cap off blipping the throttle
-bleed screws with engine running
-shaking the hoses

It was fine before I lifter the rad so I know sensors and tstats are fine.

Hi temp limp mode every time!!![emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34]

Anyone have any special tricks?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Hey guys I've tried everything I can think of here....
-Both bleed screws several times
- jacking the bike up
- cap on
-cap off
-cap off blipping the throttle
-bleed screws with engine running
-shaking the hoses

It was fine before I lifter the rad so I know sensors and tstats are fine.

Hi temp limp mode every time!!![emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34]

Anyone have any special tricks?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Have a 2017 Sportsman 1000XP. During startup my display goes completely blank (even backlight goes out) then immediately comes back on (my 2010 sportsman XP never offers any display flicker, even while the starter is engaging) so wasn’t sure if that was normal on the new models. Occasionally the display will flicker on and off several times (or maybe just the backlight will flicker) before the entire display goes blank for maybe 5 seconds and bluetooth loses connectivity. At this point it will almost always resume normal operation, although it regains bluetooth connectivity only about 75% of the time. This will occur maybe once out of every 5 or 6 startups. I’ve checked the wiring for loose connections and traced down to the battery for any loose trouble spots with no apparent issues. I’ve noticed that if I put some slight pressure on the ignition key to turn it forward or backward, I can reproduce the flicker but unsure if the key switch could be at fault or there may be a short somewhere. Turning the handlebars does not cause any flicker but I have had the display go out for a few seconds at a time then come back on during a normal ride in which case there was no turning or hard bumps as potential culprit. Seems as though connection is lost almost always at startup. Never loses EPS or power to anything else so maybe just a "normal" connection glitch. Just wondering what may be the cause (if anything). Sorry for the lengthy description, but any insight is appreciated.

I picked up a 2003 predator about a week ago, it was a little rugged but seemed to run alright. So i take it for a test ride, i'm not beating it or anything, it seems good so i take it. later when i get home i ride it again and i notice when i try to ride it hard it doesn't have much power, skip ahead a few days i clean up the carb and adjust the air fuel out 2 turns, clean it up a bit and get the brakes working. Go to ride it again and still low power but i can feel it start to pull sometimes. i'm kinda stumped at this point, i'm thinking either cdi box or cams but i'm not really sure. symptoms are: low power, false rev limiter(like its cutting out), and cuts out at full throttle. any pointers or tips would be appreciated

I’m new on here and have a question about wheels or wheel Spacers? Down anyone run wheel spacers on the outlander 570 to make front and rear wider?

I’m new on here and have a question about wheels or wheel Spacers? Down anyone run wheel spacers on the outlander 570 to make front and rear wider?

Hi everyone I have a 2015 can am maverick 1000 I recently got used. I’m having problems burning up belts I’ve had it for about 6 months and I’ve gone through 3 belts. I was trying to see what needs to be done to fix it. It had 32 inch duramax tires on 18 inch msa’s.

I have a 2005 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO. I heard this noise and replaced the starter bindex thinking that's what it was. Sound continues even after new bindex.

Video here https://youtu.be/E7TFCpvb3UI


I'm hoping it's not any better end work, but if anyone recognizes this sound, please help me save the time. I plan on tearing apart the engine, I'll do the bottom half if I have to.

Also, it is worth mentioning that after draining the oil to do an oil change I found that it has a slight hint of milkyness to it and clearly a head gasket sealer applied to the oil from the previous owner.

cheers all - just picked up a 97 sportsman 500. seems in good shape, speedo doesn't work, and left front wheel bearing has a bit of play, and primary clutch rubs on housing/cover at idle. other than that its near mint. winch, vampire tires, etc etc.

so i'm just wondering what i might be looking for, as i give this thing a once-over.... any common issues i should check out? any known issues that i should address even before they become an issue? funny thing is i worked at polaris dealership when i was young, in the late 90's..... and i remember when this sportsman 500 came out lol.... man it was a game changer. at the time a kodiak was the big thing, and i remember i'd take our demo sportsman out and launch it up and off the snowmobile loading ramp we had built, smooth landing, wouldn't even spill your coffee if you had a cup holder lol, not so much with a kodiak. anyways i was gonna buy a grizzly 700, as they are quite proven, but this sportsman popped up for sale and i just couoldn't help myself. did some review reading, and of course the consensus would be to buy the grizzly, which is why i suppose i bought the polaris lol. anything i need or should be concerned about before i venture out into the mountains?

I was looking into a clutch upgrade for wifes 550 x2 on the RVS website. The kicker is for the 2010 year only, there is a extra $130 tacked on for about a $395 clutch upgrade .

I have a RVS clutch spings/weights in my 800, and it works great. But, not really wanting to drop $400 on hers right now. It works ok, just takes a little extra gas to engage. Any other springs I could try? I am guessing it is a little more harsh because it is meant for 2 riders?

So, any cheap upgrades to try in the mean time? Thanks.