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I have a 2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO EFI I have changed the starter battery and just now the starter relay still will not start correctly sounds like the starter never fully engages unless you hold the starter button down constantly for a long time till it kicks in! What else can it be took all ground cables off cleaned them nothing has helped I am stumped!

Hello so I have 2008 ds250 I recently bought from friend. Ran great, my son was charging his phone and used a small air compressor off of the power supply port, next day after short riding shut it off and then smell bunt plastic and noticed the rectifier was melted on back side of it. Ordered new after market off eBay, install and runs great again for last month. So go get on it today and no power, check battery it’s good, check fuses and battery fuse is blown, put new in and instanly it blows and see smoke off bottom base box. Start looking at wires and the positive from fuse box is burnt up, I unwrapped further into wire harness and it’s melted pretty much all way to the rectifier. So it melted and probably melted into another wire. But what do you think caused the Burnt wire to begin with. I don’t want to replace $250 wire harnes just for it to burn up again. Is my stator a issue or even the new rectifier. Is there way to test ether.
Has anyone ever successfully rebuilt wire harness. Seems like wires are small gauge to begin with. Wires on new recifier look fine. Thanks in advance.

Hello so I have 2008 ds250 I recently bought from friend. Ran great, my son was charging his phone and used a small air compressor off of the power supply port, next day after short riding shut it off and then smell bunt plastic and noticed the rectifier was melted on back side of it. Ordered new after market off eBay, install and runs great again for last month. So go get on it today and no power, check battery it’s good, check fuses and battery fuse is blown, put new in and instanly it blows and see smoke off bottom base box. Start looking at wires and the positive from fuse box is burnt up, I unwrapped further into wire harness and it’s melted pretty much all way to the rectifier. So it melted and probably melted into another wire. But what do you think caused the Burnt wire to begin with. I don’t want to replace $250 wire harnes just for it to burn up again. Is my stator a issue or even the new rectifier. Is there way to test ether.
Has anyone ever successfully rebuilt wire harness. Seems like wires are small gauge to begin with. Wires on new recifier look fine. Thanks in advance.

My son just purchased a 2016 Ace 570 sp. I'm just wondering what blue is on the roll bars? I think it's called the titanium matte but I'm pretty sure that's the grey on the plastics.

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Changed oil in 1000 XT and check engine light and no engine oil code on display. Shut down and had installed oil filter the wrong direction. Corrected, and check engine on display will not clear

I have 4 wheel studs that will fit sportsman xp and 16 lug nuts that will fit sportsman xp steel wheels. Make offer.

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Looking to move my kid up from his Recon, found a 03 Outlander 400 I'm gonna go look at. I've done some research and they seem pretty reliable. But any pros or cons you guys got would be great.

I just recently bought a 2011 can am xmr 800 from a private dealer. I am replacing the trailing arm bearing by the spanner nut. I noticed there was no seal on the bearing and the new bearing from super atv didnt come with one. My question is, is there supposed to be a seal there? It would make sense to have one because the bearing is exposed on the back side.

First off Gentlemen, thank you for any input you may have on my overheating problem. 2015 Outlander 650 Max XT.

I had my radiator out to replace a noisy cooling fan. The replacement seems to be running/cycling fine, but the engine light flashes after 15-20 minutes of riding. I top off the coolant each time it cools down. I have bled BOTH stat housing bleeder screws. Slight amount of air has come out (bleeders). I have even gone so far as to raise the rear of the machine to insure that the rear jug is higher than anything else. Same result after multiple efforts. Squeezing hoses etc. My tests have been static, 3000RPM, with a stiff breeze from a fan blowing through the radiator. The check engine light flashes on/off after approximately 20 minutes with a light overflow of coolant on the floor. My thoughts are that there is an air lock, but I can't seem to bleed it out. The fan is running and cycling as it should. The dealer says to ONLY bleed it with the engine off. WHAT AM I MISSING?

Also, the guy who invented those plastic rivets, I hope he won't be allowed to reproduce!

Thank you for your input.

First off Gentlemen, thank you for any input you may have on my overheating problem. 2015 Outlander 650 Max XT.

I had my radiator out to replace a noisy cooling fan. The replacement seems to be running/cycling fine, but the engine light flashes after 15-20 minutes of riding. I top off the coolant each time it cools down. I have bled BOTH stat housing bleeder screws. Slight amount of air has come out (bleeders). I have even gone so far as to raise the rear of the machine to insure that the rear jug is higher than anything else. Same result after multiple efforts. Squeezing hoses etc. My tests have been static, 3000RPM, with a stiff breeze from a fan blowing through the radiator. The check engine light flashes on/off after approximately 20 minutes with a light overflow of coolant on the floor. My thoughts are that there is an air lock, but I can't seem to bleed it out. The fan is running and cycling as it should. The dealer says to ONLY bleed it with the engine off. WHAT AM I MISSING?

Also, the guy who invented those plastic rivets, I hope he won't be allowed to reproduce!

Thank you for your input.