News

Has anyone else had this problem, I ran my bike all last year no problem seat got a bit hot however nothing I hadn't read about.
First ride out this weekend (after installing OEM BRP skid plate kit front and a snorkel your ATV snorkel kit and this happened.
Do the skid plates alter the air flow under the body panels?


This is an image of the damage.


Any help will greatly be appreciated (have a poker run in two weeks I want to do)


Thanks
Richard

Attached Images

File Type: jpg

xmr1000 hexhaust damage.jpg (2.70 MB)

Looking for feedback on tracks for my Outlander Max 450L. Its a toss-up between the Apache 360 and the Camso T4S.

To my understanding the Apache 360 all use the same size drive sprocket regardless of engine size? The 450 may struggle a bit with this gearing? Looking for feedback on anyone else running the Apache tracks with the 450.

The Camso T4S has a varying sprocket size from 16 teeth to 18 teeth. The 16 tooth sprocket is recommended for the 450. I know it will mean a slower speed but I will retain some torque. Again looking for feedback on anyone else running the T4S kit.

I just want to check something before I went through the hassle of pulling the diff out.

I've got my 08 800 touring up on all 4's on jackstands while I was checking for a front diff leak. Never did find the leak but everything appeared normal, so I figured while I had all four wheels off the ground I'd just give it a look over in AWD. Everything with the AWD system worked just fine. However, when I put it back in 2wd, the fronts still continue to spin once the rears are up to speed. Now, I can hold the tires and they wont spin. But all tires off the ground, the front shaft spins and both front axles/tires spin as well (not as fast as the front.)

Normal? Wasnt sure if it was because there's not resistance on the front tires while they are in the air. I just thought that 2wd meant the fronts were free to spin and really shouldnt move when in gear?

Thanks!

Just got a 2018 Outlander 450 DPS (in camo) for hunting deer and fun. Look forward to reading posts and asking questions. Thanks in advance for any help.

I bought a 1997 Scrambler 500 4x4 a few months back really cheap. Got it running and it idles fine but when you throttle it, it acts like it’s hitting a rev limiter. I’ve checked the timing and cams more than once. Been through the carb several times. Changed out the jets with different sizes which changes the idle but still doesn’t rev. The carb is an aftermarket one but it identical to the original. I’m thinking it’s electrical but can’t figure it out. It has a new cdi (aftermarket) but if I hook up the ground (black wire) from it and the ground(black wire)from the rev limiter box it won’t run at all. But if either or are hooked up it will run but won’t rev up. With the cdi ground hooked up the kill switch works but with rev limiter ground hooked up I have to unhook the coil to kill the motor. Is there another electrical switch somewhere that I’m missing that could cause this issue? Or am I wrong thinking electrical?

We have a 2017 Outlander Max 1000 and I am hoping someone can tell me how to remove the hood (under the rack). Looking for a place to put a horn, not the beep beep roadrunner kind.
Thanks

Hello to everybody, I used to drive a Can Am Commander 1000 Max and now changed to a Can Am Maverick X3 XDS MAX, Both very good and powerfull Vehicules.
I would like to share an issue hoping someone can guide me finding the problem and the possible solutions for it.
In my Maverick X·3 the crank gearbox gets hard and it is difficult to change the gear, at this moment it is impossible to move the crank to ¨L¨ postion for example. I have tried with the engine running and with the engine turned off., but couldn´t in any of the cases.
Hope someone can help me, Thankyou

Hello to everybody, I used to drive a Can Am Commander 1000 Max and now changed to a Can Am Maverick X3 XDS MAX, Both very good and powerfull Vehicules.
I would like to share an issue hoping someone can guide me finding the problem and the possible solutions for it.
In my Maverick X·3 the crank gearbox gets hard and it is difficult to change the gear, at this moment it is impossible to move the crank to ¨L¨ postion for example. I have tried with the engine running and with the engine turned off., but couldn´t in any of the cases.
Hope someone can help me, Thankyou

Hello, Thanks for having me. Trading in my Ranger and picking up a 570 Touring SP and a 570 SP. The deal is done, we ran out of time Saturday so I will be picking them up tomorrow afternoon. Rode dirt bikes and had a couple wheelers from the mid 80's up until 06 and took a 10 year break from the track and trails. The Ranger got me back on the trails 2.5 years ago and I can't wait to hit them on a wheeler.

I love the Ranger but it was to big for the type of trails that we like to do and who am I to argue when my queen says that she wants a wheeler so she can have something of her own to ride. The touring is hers as she had to have the silver.

We already have an 06 Hawkeye 300 that my 13 year old rides and are hoping to get him something newer next year. I have to say that the Hawkeye has been through a lot and just keeps chugging along, its a great wheeler. My oldest boy pretty much trashed it and I spent a whole winter rebuilding the suspension and rear sub-frame. I can't believe that thing is still running.

Steve

I’m working on my brothers 2009 outlander 400. He went too deep into water. It fried the led light bar ( hooked up direct without a fuse ). Since then the electric start only works off and on. As well as all the other accessories ( lights, brake light, winch etc ). It starts first pull and runs fine. I will add that he was having an issue with the starter staying engaged, but I rebuilt the bendix ( with Polaris parts ) and that works fine now, I replaced the relays, and checked all the fuses, and replaced the solenoid. When I test for power at the solenoid I get power when I press the green button, but it won’t engage, I can hear a click that’s it. It was working for a bit but only when key was in lights on but not when in the other position. The speedometer burnt up at some point as well. I plugged a different one in but it was from a 800 and would throw a miscommunication code to ecm. No other codes come up on ecm. If I jump the leads on solenoid it will turn over as well. Kill switch seems to work as it should. When it does decide to work, it seems as soon as you ride it, even a short distance it happens again next time you try to start it. Any ideas on where to look and check next?