Author: Forum News

I have a 2008 Outlander 500XT. For several years it's had an electrical problem where if unused for as little as a week or two, the battery will be dead. I've replaced the battery a couple times and the problem kept happening.

I eventually installed a switch in series between the positive battery terminal and positive cable, thinking this brilliant solution would prevent any power drain since if I open the switch every time I turn the machine off, the battery is effectively disconnected from the machine. I'm stumped by why the problem keeps happening. It may take a little longer to become dead now if I open the switch, but I'm not certain.

Any suggestions what I should do next or how it could even still possibly be going dead with the battery disconnected?

ive been looking around on the internet for aftermarket parts for my new to me 2015 ds450xc having trouble finding a decent selection of parts anyone know where i can find a good exhaust, intake, programmer

Just got a 2004 Sportsman 600 with only 500km... ya thats right KM... I'm up north with tons of mountain riding.

First the plus sides so far... heated grips/thumb, ITP mudlites all around!!!

Now the troubles/changes
Couple things I've had issues with and could really use some help and I suspect some of the issues are from the machine sitting around.

Already had to replace 2 CV boots from splitting after being old.

I replaced all fluids including the diffs

The carb has been cleaned and I would like to know more about the jetting ranges and it adjustments have been made by anyone.

The ITP mudlites are oversized at 26x9R12 fronts and 26x11R12 rears, the issue is the tire rubs the tie rod ends slightly but not enough to cause that much damage to the the tires or anything else. Other issue is slight rubbing when hitting big bumps.... any thoughts besides the obvious down sizing???

Tie rod ends are toast and the new 12mm ones are what I'm looking at especially with all the mountain riding. Not sure how they are this bad after only 500km but either way they are being upgraded. Any suggestions where to purchase from?

This one will hopefully be an easy fix but the story goes... I was out riding this weekend and had a steamy ride with coolant spewing out the reservoir tank. So far I have checked the fan and the bearings seem rough but its still functional when I connect to a battery. There is still power to the fan past the bag fuses which I hope means the fuses are still good since I know they can collect moisture.

Here is the next confusing thing (stick with me). The temperature sensor/switch in cold condition is conductive and I assume it should read open circuit or very high resistance. With a temp sensor/switch being constantly closed I would assume the fan would run all the time but it doesn't turn on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated before I purchase a new temperature sensor/switch and the upgraded tie rod kit.

Bryce

My 2011 Sportsman 550 quit moving. Engine runs fine. Took it to Polaris dealer and he tore it down to the gear case (removed belt and pulleys) and didn't find the problem, but wanted big bucks to tear it down further. I can turn the shaft coming out of the gear case, in gear or in neutral and it feels like it has minor resistance at some points. No resistance otherwise. In reading through some of the posts, I am thinking that I have a coupler problem. I have no service manual. If I want to tear into this myself, are there any things I need to be aware of that any of you can share with me? Can I unbolt the gearbox and fix it or do I need to be removing the engine as well?

BTW, the motor sounded like it was about to fall apart for a few hundred miles before this happened. The machine has a little over 15,000 miles on it so that is why I hesitate to pay the dealer more. What he was asking was more than it is worth.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks!

I got this four wheeler starting and idling after buying it not running, it has good compression and engine sounds great. it will take throttle for about the first 30 seconds from a cold startup, after that it will just idle but not very well. if you give it throttle after the first 30 seconds or so it will cutout and the speedo will flicker

The following has been replaced, carb, cdi, spark plug and wire, coil ohms out good. New fluids.

The only thing left would be voltage regulator and stator/pulse ignitor.

Voltage regulator seems to be fine as it maintains 13.4 volts to the battery while running.

Could something in the stator/flywheel section be cracked and faults out after it starts? also is the stator in oil or is it dry?

thanks

96 Polaris scrambler 400 4x4 2 stroke https://www.polarisatvforums.com/for...d.php?t=174767

Hey everybody, somewhat new to the site. Recently bought me a new 570 DPS in camo and love the power, pretty much the best performing bike I have ever driven but man does it get hot. Seems reading on here most people have the same problem so will be taking any advice I can get on how to fix it. Thanks

1994 Sportsman 400
There are 3 wires that go from my shifter that I can figure out or remember where they go. They are
green with white stripe, Grey with white strip and a blue wire. Where do these go?

Hey everyone,

Just got a 2004 Sportsman 600 with only 500km... ya thats right KM... I'm up north with tons of mountain riding.

First the plus sides so far... heated grips/thumb, ITP mudlites all around!!!

Now the troubles/changes
Couple things I've had issues with and could really use some help and I suspect some of the issues are from sitting around.

Already had to replace 2 CV boots from splitting after being old.

I replaced all fluids including the diffs

The carb has been cleaned and I would like to know more about the jetting ranges and it adjustments have been made by anyone.

The ITP mudlites are oversized at 26x9R12 fronts and 26x11R12 rears, the issue is the tire rubs the tie rod ends slightly but not enough to cause that much damage to the the tires or anything else. Other issue is slight rubbing when hitting big bumps.... any thoughts???

Tie rod ends are toast and the new 12mm ones are what I'm looking at especially with all the mountain riding. Not sure how they are this bad after only 500km but either way they are being upgraded.

Hopefully an easy fix but the story goes I was out riding this weekend and had a steamy ride with coolant spewing out the reservoir tank. So far I have checked the fan and the bearings seem rough but its still functional when I connect to a battery. There is still power to the fan from the past the bag fuses which I hope means the fuses are still good.

Here is the next confusing thing (stick with me). The temperature sensor/switch in cold condition is conductive and I assume it should read open circuit or very high resistance. With a temp sensor/switch being constantly closed I would assume the fan would run all the time.

So either way... good times so far with this machine and I am sure the fun will continue once I work out the kinks.

Thanks
Bryce