Author: Forum News

I had a little time off during the holidays and decided to revamp my dash panel setup on my Flexx bars. I was just using the stock pod trimmed to fit and then zip tied it to the bars. It looked decent and served the purpose but I wanted to do something that looked a little better and kept the display safe in a rollover.

I know a guy with a waterjet that cut the panels for pretty cheap, he even had a brake press and did the bending on the little mounting tabs for me. This is made from 1/8" aluminum and the display is still able to mount just like it would in the stock pod. The placement is perfect and is not in the way at all.

I also decided to add some Totron LED cubes I had laying around for some directional light. I'll have to revisit the way these mount as they tend to rotate slightly when the Flexx bars are pivoting. All things considered, I'm extremely pleased with how it came out....only thing left to do is have it powder coated black!

The first pic is how I had it mounted before.

Attached Thumbnails

         

I had a little time off during the holidays and decided to revamp my dash panel setup on my Flexx bars. I was just using the stock pod trimmed to fit and then zip tied it to the bars. It looked decent and served the purpose but I wanted to do something that looked a little better and kept the display safe in a rollover.

I know a guy with a waterjet that cut the panels for pretty cheap, he even had a brake press and did the bending on the little mounting tabs for me. This is made from 1/8" aluminum and the display is still able to mount just like it would in the stock pod. The placement is perfect and is not in the way at all.

I also decided to add some Totron LED cubes I had laying around for some directional light. I'll have to revisit the way these mount as they tend to rotate slightly when the Flexx bars are pivoting. All things considered, I'm extremely pleased with how it came out....only thing left to do is have it powder coated black!

The first pic is how I had it mounted before.

Attached Thumbnails

         

You won’t hear their engines roar, but the electric-powered Polaris Ranger EV and Textron Prowler EVis are great options for those who don’t want to be heard.

We’ll be the first to say that when it comes to UTVs, we tend to think of gas-powered, big horsepower brutes that can either do heavy chores, or haul the bacon at insane speeds. What we often forget about are the alternative options we have. Hybrid and electric cars are growing in popularity in recent years, but electric-powered UTVs have been around for many years as well. Textron has the Prowler EVis and Polaris has had a battery-powered Ranger EV in the lineup for some time. Let’s take a look by the numbers.

Head to Head stats here: 2018 Polaris Ranger EV vs. Textron Prowler EVis: By the Numbers - ATV.com

So far I have changed the fan switch, fan and the thermostat and I still have issues with it overheating. About the only other thing i could think to change would be the water pump. The engine will at times function correctly. The times it does over heat, the fan will not run, which i don't understand because I have changed all of the components. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The soldering on shifter switch on my 97 explorer 500 is letting go, only one out of four is still attached. The way they came undone and moved about not sure of each wire location on the switch. Due to circumstances it was easier to cut wires to bring harness indoors to resolder. Using butt connectors and shrink tubing for this part.to rejoin wires. Would like to know which coloured wire goes where on the switch also the purpose of the wires. Does it affect my all wheel drive, the two wheel is ok but not going in all drive no lights. I can only surmise that the switch sends info on which gear it is in to the all drive button that it is in gear and ok to engage.

Have not been able to find a diagram or colour info on wires on web. Just part list.

Thanks

So it seems like my brake pads last for about a month, anyone find a set that lasts longer?

I do ride in the mud (cant be helped here) but damn I would like to get more longevity than a month.

I've got a 2015 Sportsman 570 EPS and a small leak has developed at the front diff. input shaft seal. I did not have the leak until I plowed snow with it in AWD. I've checked into replacing the seal ,but I do have a little wobble in the shaft , I was wondering how much wobble is too much! My Machine was purchased used ,so I have no idea of it's history other than it only has less than 40 hours on it and right around 100 miles. If needed can I rebuild my front Diff. myself or does it require a professional? I am very mechanically inclined , so if it not too bad I'll do it myself.

I recently purchased a project trail boss with busted transmission and have begun the process of bringing it back to life. The previous owner removed the front brake lever and MC but left all the lines still attached at the T. The line from the MC to the T has quite a bit of rust on/in the threads so I assume it is toast. Are there any alternatives to buying the OEM lines? I worry I will have to replace all 4 lines since they have been open to contamination from the main line. Any thoughts/suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated. Just got it back running and now want to be able to stop.

Here's a couple of links to semi-scientific comparisons of the internal workings of oil filters

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

OIL FILTERS EXPOSED! - Introduction