Author: Forum News

Hey guys, just thought I'd share a project of mine with ya since it's a one of a kind from what I've researched.

Renegades love to overheat when submersed in mud, and I was determined to come up with a custom rad relocate as I don't care for aftermarket options and I'm capable of building my own. (I'm an ambitious welding engineering student)

Initially I built the box and brackets and it held up to any abuse at the time. (Picture 1)

After upgrading to 30" silverback mt2's from bald 27" swamp lites, the ride got significantly rougher. The brackets couldn't handle the shaking of the rad, so I fabricated a bumper to help soak up some of the vibration. (Picture 2)

I won't get into specifics unless someone asks, as it was a rather lengthy process. This post was just for fun, but don't hesitate to ask questions!

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After having a wreck on my old 330 Trail Boss, and seeing a friend get rear ended by his own son, I've decided bumpers (front & rear) although pricey for two vehicles would be a smart move.

Seen (on line) the OEM tubing model (which through experience) I know work well considering how light the construction is, I've seen others.

I like the look of the Warn model


Any other suggestions? Thanks
Mike

I'm taking apart my recently purchased 1995 300 4x4 project to check everything over and repair whatever is worn out or broken.
I started with the rear axle to replace the broken rear bearing carrier, put in new bearings and change the sprocket.

I took the swing arm off to inspect the bushings while I'm at it since it has some side to side play.
Someone put a new EPI bushing kit in not too long ago, but the holes in the frame have become oval over time.
The sprocket side is a lot worse, I suppose from the extra torque on the drive side.

I'd like to get rid of as much play as possible, but what is the best way to fix this?

Do I cut the frame and weld in new washers? fill the oval hole(s) with weld and re-drill?

Has anyone else dealt with this?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

Any help is appreciated! I have a 2013 Sportsman 400 and am having starting problems. The machine only has 230 miles on it and I take great care of it. If my machine sits for over a week I can't get it started. The engine will turn over but will not actually run. If it is started everyday then there is no problem. However, it is stored 4 hours away from where I live. Not sure if the starter, carb, or battery is to blame. It still has the original battery, but is stored inside during winter months and was fully charged the last time I could not start it.

Thanks for any help!

Just curious to get a read as to what people are being quoted for a price on this unit. The MSRP is 14,799.00. What kind of quote or price have you gotten on this... thx for the input.

Finally joined the site, I have been leaching the site for years:big-grin.... I currently ride a Sportsman 500 efi. I have been riding for a very long time, which in turn means I have been fixing my machines for a very long time (never had a warranty:sad). With all that said I have quite a few scars of knowledge. :arco:

Looking into purchasing a 1k xt and am curious about the durability when used for utility. Would be used for sportier riding during the summer, but would put tracks on for fall and winter. Typical duties would include pulling loaded carts in muddy/difficult terrain, pulling snow groomer, logging, etc.

Just ordered a set of the original Bear Claws for my Ranger 900 and my father in law is wanting a set for his Ranger 570 4 seater. My question is, the stock front tires are 10 inches wide. Will 10 inch wide Bear Claws rub the struts or would they be ok? There is the option to go to a 8 inch front, would that be ok to use if the 10 inch fronts won't?