Is there that much of a power difference between the two? Or are they similar in performance due to the 1000's increased weight disadvantage?
2003 Quest 650 battery connections
Hi,
I'am new to forum. hope I am posting this in right area.
just bought used quad. it did not have a battery in it.
there are two heavy cables/wires coming from the front of the bike to the battery.
one is yellow and one is blue. How do I tell or know if they connect to positive or negative?
I connected the red from solenoid to + and black to - as usually. I have power to ignition and starter.
Does anyone know where the heavy gauge blue and yellow go. What are they connected to at the front?
Thanks
I'am new to forum. hope I am posting this in right area.
just bought used quad. it did not have a battery in it.
there are two heavy cables/wires coming from the front of the bike to the battery.
one is yellow and one is blue. How do I tell or know if they connect to positive or negative?
I connected the red from solenoid to + and black to - as usually. I have power to ignition and starter.
Does anyone know where the heavy gauge blue and yellow go. What are they connected to at the front?
Thanks
DIY Electronic Throttle sensitivity
I have an European 2018 Otty 1000 with electronic throttle, not iTC. I would like to change the throttle sensivity with some DIY electronic.
The throttle is a double Hall effect sensor, which translates the position of the lever into two analog voltages and sends a signal to the ECU. The signals given by these Hall sensors vary from 0.53v to 3v for signal one, and 0.25v to 1.5v for signal two. The relation between these two signals (Signal one) = ((Signal two) x 2)
If I wire in two voltage dividers and a DTDP (Double Throw Double Pole) switch, the two voltage signals would be divided i.a.w the resistors. If using 4 equal resistors the voltage signals should be diveded into half whith switch engaged.
Is this DIY possibe?
Se attached 2019 throttle wiring
The throttle is a double Hall effect sensor, which translates the position of the lever into two analog voltages and sends a signal to the ECU. The signals given by these Hall sensors vary from 0.53v to 3v for signal one, and 0.25v to 1.5v for signal two. The relation between these two signals (Signal one) = ((Signal two) x 2)
If I wire in two voltage dividers and a DTDP (Double Throw Double Pole) switch, the two voltage signals would be divided i.a.w the resistors. If using 4 equal resistors the voltage signals should be diveded into half whith switch engaged.
Is this DIY possibe?
Se attached 2019 throttle wiring
1996 Polaris xplorer
I have a 1996 Polaris xplorer and I am replacing all the chains and sprockets on it. I need to know do you get he front sprocket off for the 4x4? It's the one where the CV shft is. Thanks
1996 Polaris xplorer
I have a 1996 Polaris xplorer and I am replacing all the chains and sprockets on it. I need to know do you get he front sprocket off for the 4x4? It's the one where the CV shft is. Thanks
Superwinch lt3000 help
I bought a superwinch lt3000 a few months ago and the cable got caught between the drum and winch body. It ruined the cable but also ruined a gasket that is between the drum and motor housing...superwinch says I have to buy a whole new motor assembly which is 110 bucks. Well a new winch is like 130 on Amazon. I've used it 3 times and would like to continue to use it. Does anyone have a suggestion for the gasket??
Thank you
Thank you
Biggest Battery in a 2018
So I have been reading some of the battery issues and cranking issues throughout the forum. Maybe mine is the same. Maybe its different. I have a 2018 570 (base) with a 3500lb winch. The thing has always seems to crank slow. Now that its winter, some times I get on, turn the key and nothing. If I keep the key turned on, after a few seconds it will turn over. Maybe once then stop, maybe two or three times and then start. it has never left me sitting. But I do not want to hope this starts when im miles off the beaten path.
I noticed while plowing, when I hit the winch, the "dash board" blue backlight goes out. Like when the battery on bike is on its last leg, and you turn the key and headlights go off..
So looking, it seems the battery is a 14AH, EXT15, 195 CCA stock. I don't understand the "sizing" but want to find one with more CCA and see if that makes a difference.
Thoughts?
I noticed while plowing, when I hit the winch, the "dash board" blue backlight goes out. Like when the battery on bike is on its last leg, and you turn the key and headlights go off..
So looking, it seems the battery is a 14AH, EXT15, 195 CCA stock. I don't understand the "sizing" but want to find one with more CCA and see if that makes a difference.
Thoughts?
Textron and Tracker Join Forces to Create Tracker Off Road
Textron and Tracker Join Forces to Create Tracker Off RoadNew line of ATVs and Side-by-Sides to be sold at Tracker boat dealers more
Later model touring rear clearance
The 2012 era machines had a definite limitation for tire size, but I'm curious if anybody has any insight to share as to the 2015 model and running a 27" tire like a Vampire II?
Battery drain-intermittent
Looking to see if anybody else has seen this. Randomly I have had the battery go dead on my 2015 SP1000 Touring. Example: One time this summer it started, idled a couple minutes to warm up, rode about 1/8 mile and shut down to check minnow trap. Went to start 5 minutes later and it just clicks.
What I have identified is that the ECM is remaining live for almost exactly 20 minutes. This is very consistent as verified by stopwatch. During this time there is approx. .9 amps draw as measured with an Amp Hound. .08 amps on the fuel pump circuit and .80 on the EFI circuit. I went through connector by connector unplugging to see if it released and could not get it to shut off until it timed out at 20 minutes. I have not yet been into the speedo pod. Removing and replugging the EFI relay or EFI fuse will remove the drain until key on again.
The battery is original to the machine and I probably should change it as it sure should stand a 1 amp draw for 20 minutes, but I still need to find the root cause. Battery will start the machine in dead cold so long as it has been charged and it seems to hold voltage relatively well so long as the key is not turned on to start the draw.
Disclosure: I do have a Power Commander V fuel controller on the machine. This device is being kept active by the ECM and not the other way around. If I unplug the injector feed that powers the PC-V my draw reduces by about .2 amps but resumes as soon as reconnected.
My longshot is the ECM itself, but I hate to just throw parts at it…
What I have identified is that the ECM is remaining live for almost exactly 20 minutes. This is very consistent as verified by stopwatch. During this time there is approx. .9 amps draw as measured with an Amp Hound. .08 amps on the fuel pump circuit and .80 on the EFI circuit. I went through connector by connector unplugging to see if it released and could not get it to shut off until it timed out at 20 minutes. I have not yet been into the speedo pod. Removing and replugging the EFI relay or EFI fuse will remove the drain until key on again.
The battery is original to the machine and I probably should change it as it sure should stand a 1 amp draw for 20 minutes, but I still need to find the root cause. Battery will start the machine in dead cold so long as it has been charged and it seems to hold voltage relatively well so long as the key is not turned on to start the draw.
Disclosure: I do have a Power Commander V fuel controller on the machine. This device is being kept active by the ECM and not the other way around. If I unplug the injector feed that powers the PC-V my draw reduces by about .2 amps but resumes as soon as reconnected.
My longshot is the ECM itself, but I hate to just throw parts at it…