News

Ive been having a noise coming from what I thought was the u joint on the rear drive shaft. I’ve had the dealer replace the rear drive shaft with a brp one and the noise was still there. Then I replaced the brp one with a mud n wheels rear drive shaft, bc of play and typical bad u joint symptoms with the brand new brp one. Now after driving not even a half a mile the noise is back again with the new mud n wheels drive shaft. It’s a “tick, tick, tick” noise that comes from the u joint area/ transmission area. It makes the noise while I have the rear wheels jacked up off the ground. Then when I ride it, that same area has a “popping” noise when the rear suspension articulates.....could something in the transmission cause these noises? ???....also if it is the transmission, how would one work on it or replace it???...would the engine have to be removed???....any help would be greatly appreciated....here is the noise of what I’m talking about with the rear wheels off the ground...

At what mileage are you changing engine oil at for the first time. Also what brand and weight oil is everyone using.
Thanks
Kenner

My 2003 Tracter has an issue when I go start some times it does nothing. Battery is good and solenoid is good as well. I don’t hear the typical sprag bearing I have found when googling the issues. I
Put unit in high gear and give it a shove and then back to neutral and it starts. Any ideas ? These units have a safety neutral switch ? I’m lost. Thanks

My 2003 Tracter has an issue when I go start some times it does nothing. Battery is good and solenoid is good as well. I don’t hear the typical sprag bearing I have found when googling the issues. I
Put unit in high gear and give it a shove and then back to neutral and it starts. Any ideas ? These units have a safety neutral switch ? I’m lost. Thanks

Hi there fellow Can-Am'ers,

My father is about to ditch his old Polaris 6x6 after riding mine :-) and can buy a friend of our's 2016 Outlander 650 6x6 with A LOT of miles(16.000km or so) on it. This is no problem as I know these machines can handle miles just fine. Our friend does not take good care of his rides and he know it so my father will get it very cheap.
I've ridden it a few times and it seems to be just fine beside some minor cosmetic stuff, no big deal, but this last weekend me and our friend with his 6x6 took a ride into the backcountry just for fun(and the weather was real nice for once) and in a steep technical climb I could hear the famous visco-lok slipping noise so I guess the visco-lok need some attention sooner or later. The load on the front tires was not that great being a steep climb.
My father is no bad ass offroader(he just want DPS and better brakes to be honest) so I doubt he will ever experience any Visco-lok slippage but I like stuff to be working right so what are our options here?
a) Buy a new differential unit(705401506)
or
b) Buy a Torq-locker

About the Torq-locker...Will it make that ratcheting sound whenever I take a turn in 4x6 mode?

Ok, what was Can Am thinking with the box they put around the carb?
Picked up a 2015 DS90 for my boys that has sat for most of the past year, so naturally the carb needs to be cleaned. Problem is i can’t get to the dern thing. Not to mention the front plastics don’t come off with out taking off the handlebars.
If / when i get the carb out, that little bos is going in the recycle bin.

New guy checking in from Colorado Springs.
Picked up a 2015 Ca Am DS 90 for my kids the other day.
Just here to see what other DS90 owners have learned.

Recently bought a 2013, even though it had low km and winch was almost never used, the grease had dried pretty bad and the freespool/engage switch was behaving really bad, and it was very hard to freespool.

I removed the winch and disassembled the gearbox. Grease was all dried up with chunks.
Mineral spirits bath with a toothbrush, air dry and re-grease, now freespools really easy and toggle works #1.
Also a good time to fix the warn issue with the toggle where the metal part jams the plastic and you cant put it back to motor after freespool....
Just file at an angle the plastic edge where the metal part catches. Now it just rides the ramp and goes back on. Takes 1 minute with a small file on each side.



Should work like new. Motor is supposed to be sealed and is pretty new so I just decided not to disassemble it...

What is that purple connector behind the fuse box in the gauge cluster?

And wtf ate my wires? mouse or something? I'm lucky that only the rubber was eaten and not the actual wire.

So looking to raise my snorkel on my XMR. I can not seem to find anything that says how tall the snorkels sit. The Traditional kit looks like it would be no problem, but the SYA kit looks like it would completely obstruct your view if sitting. Anyone have these and maybe could get a picture of the sitting on their quad? Want to see how tall they actually are.


On another note, if anyone has any better kit to recommend than Snorkel Your Atv, please share them.
Thanks!


SYA Warrior kit
https://www.snorkelyouratv.com/can-am-snorkel-kits


Traditional kit
https://www.snorkelyouratv.com/produ...0-800-850-1000