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Ok so I wanted to sell my 570 to upgrade to an 850. Was wondering if anyone on hear near buffalo mn was looking to buy. It’s Camo, no power steering, light bar, comes with oil change kit, 2 small cracks in plastic, but overall in very good condition. 1,700 miles $5,300

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Hello Everyone,

First post here so bare with me. I purchased a used 06 magnum 330 at the beginning of the summer. My first major purchase other than my vehicle and I must say it has been a complete nightmare. I've rode it twice when I first got it and its been sitting inoperable for most of the summer... First fuel issues -> fixed, then air intake issues -> fixed (I think). Now I have an electrical issue :|

For specifically 2006 Polaris magnum 330's there are no circuit breakers in the pouches and no fuse boxes. There are fuse links which run from the started solenoid to a SSCB (I'm guessing a Solid State Circuit Breaker?). Figured I'd bring that up right away to avoid confusion.

Well I bought a brand new battery BEFORE I had the electrical issues (Duralast gold AGM, they have outstanding reviews *sarcasm*) so I've somewhat eliminate that as the issue in my mind. I will be hooking up to a load bank as soon as I can to test for certainty.

When the electrical issue first started, turning the ignition key with red button in center (on) would cause the starter solenoid to buzz but engine would not turn over (I can't recall if I had power elsewhere). I figured the battery must be dead, but had 12.6V. Hooked battery to trickle charger and tried again at full charge. This time the solenoid would not even whine. I've been disconnecting the positive terminal first and reading the user manual says the opposite (Did I possibly damage the battery or other electronics?). My next thought was to begin checking for voltage to the various components. I get voltage at the ignition key switch, the left handle bar engine kill switch, and the ECM.

I'm sort of lost at this point. If the fuse links blew then I shouldn't see voltage downstream right? Did I possibly fry my ECM? Maybe a bad key switch or engine kill switch? Or possibly just a typical bad Duralast battery?

I do very much appreciate any help. Summers almost over and I'd be ecstatic to end it on the trails. (Not broken down of course :wink)

Thanks

- Jake

Toggling through the instrument cluster Display Area 2 options, I have an undocumented field: it is between “Service Hours” and “Engine Temperature.”

TT and what seems to be a running time of ignition on.

Any insight on this?




MHB

I have a 2002 traxter 500 that starts some times and others not. The battery and solenoid seem good. I see there is sprag bearing issues but mine doesn’t even make a noise like the videos I see on you tube. When it won’t start I pull into high gear and give it a shove forward. Then I put back in neutral and it starts. Is the a neutral safety switch on these ? Help

I recently put on a qsc primary and an stm secondary. Today I had a belt start to come out of my snorkel so I stopped riding. Looks like the belt is more wore on the inside closest to the motor. I do not know if I need to add or take out a shim in the secondary or primary.

Also cvt exhaust on my snorkel is hot enough to melt the plastic. Is my cvt running to hot?

Hoping someone with more experience and elaborate on this for me.

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Getting gas and fire, but will not start. Any suggestions?

Anyone running this kit on their XMR? I have a 17 1000 xmr.

Just ordered a bunch of parts:
Torq Locker
HMF Swamp series with snorkel
HMF programmer
SYA Warrior Riser Snorkel kit


Running stock tire size (30)


Dont want to go the entire clutch route, just want to beef up the one I have. This kit looks promising but 2 things:
1: Can not find this exact kit for sale anywhere
2: Searched the forum and not much mention of it.



Here is the link for the kit: Dalton | Can-Am/BRP ATV / UTV Products DBO 1000 X


Anyone running this and what is your thoughts? Also, always up for any recommendations for other products.
TIA

Anyone running this kit on their XMR? I have a 17 1000 xmr.

Just ordered a bunch of parts:
Torq Locker
HMF Swamp series with snorkel
HMF programmer
SYA Warrior Riser Snorkel kit


Running stock tire size (30)


Dont want to go the entire clutch route, just want to beef up the one I have. This kit looks promising but 2 things:
1: Can not find this exact kit for sale anywhere
2: Searched the forum and not much mention of it.



Here is the link for the kit: Dalton | Can-Am/BRP ATV / UTV Products DBO 1000 X


Anyone running this and what is your thoughts? Also, always up for any recommendations for other products.
TIA

I searched the forums and found lots of similar questions but haven't been able to figure out whats going on. My 05 trail boss sat in the garage for about 10 months without being used. Went to crank it up and the battery was dead but it pull start on the first pull. It idled perfectly and I ran it up the street and it ran great - maybe not as fast as I remember it but it ran great. Battery charged enough to start it with the key but barely. Let it sit idling for about 10 minutes and it purred perfectly. Battery would not charge fully but enough to start it no problem. Ran it around some more with no issues although if I let it sit for a couple of hours the battery would not crank it but it would pull start first pull. Yesterday I started it up, revved it in neutral and it died suddenly and it wouldn't start back up. Waited a few minutes and it started right up again. Revved it hard in neutral again and same thing. Died and wouldn't re-start. Now it wont start at all. Spark plug replaced and it's getting spark - tested with an inline spark checker. Carb issue? I just can't understand why it would run great then die when I revved in neutral but not when I revved all the way while riding it. I need to get it fixed so I can go ride with my son. Could a weak battery be the issue? I always heard that on a carb bike the battery would not cause it to have issues once it was running.

Ive been having a noise coming from what I thought was the u joint on the rear drive shaft. I’ve had the dealer replace the rear drive shaft with a brp one and the noise was still there. Then I replaced the brp one with a mud n wheels rear drive shaft, bc of play and typical bad u joint symptoms with the brand new brp one. Now after driving not even a half a mile the noise is back again with the new mud n wheels drive shaft. It’s a “tick, tick, tick” noise that comes from the u joint area/ transmission area. It makes the noise while I have the rear wheels jacked up off the ground. Then when I ride it, that same area has a “popping” noise when the rear suspension articulates.....could something in the transmission cause these noises? ???....also if it is the transmission, how would one work on it or replace it???...would the engine have to be removed???....any help would be greatly appreciated....here is the noise of what I’m talking about with the rear wheels off the ground...