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Any ideas here? Carb is brand new.

Starts fine but doesnt stay running.

96 Polaris scrambler 400 4x4 2 stroke https://www.polarisatvforums.com/for...d.php?t=174767

Hello all, first post so be kind! Currently driving a 2017 Sportsman 450ho, completely stock but riding on 26” CST wild thang tires.

I have found myself mostly riding bog & swamp due to my location so I am currently thinking about installing a Dalton clutch kit and 28” tires.

Looking for anyone that has done similar, also thinking about the 28” mega mayhem’s, any reviews??

Thanks B

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I installed the RVS clutch kit with the thin spacer on my wife's 2016 SP570 PS EBS and now it creeps in low and reverse, hard to shift into park and high and the rear wheels lock up more.

Wanted to know if those small washers (5-6) at the secondary bolt is what is used to shim the secondary? This secondary is different than the one from my '05 sp700 where you would install or remove washer shims behind the secondary. Or is there another way to properly align the clutches?

I contacted RVS and they said to try the thick shim or double them up but then the take-off rpm will be too high (wife likes low rpm take-off) and they said the shims do not affect belt alignment so I am lost as to why I would add them?

For all the knowledgeable clutch people on here what would your recommendation be? The atv is 4 hours from where I live so I want to have all the right tools and info before my next trip to try and straighten it out.

Thanks for any advice!

HELP? I inherited my father’s 2007 Polaris X2 500 EFI and been having issues with the lights and fan (so far that I know of.) The machine starts fine but don’t have any lights and once heated up the fan does not come on. The dash does say check engine. I did get a hold of an electrical schematic of the ATV. This is what I have done so far.

- Cleaned up grounds on chassis near front left tire
- Traced wire (solid red) from battery to PDM (SSCB #1 cavity H). Reads 12.7V – good there
- Checked continuity of ground coming into PDM SSCB #1 cavity N) to chassis – no break good there
- Plug SSCB #1 back into PDM and check voltage on light output terminal on PDM (SSCB #2 cavity G red/yellow wire) – Get 7.7V (would think this should be 12V???)
- Plug SSCB #2 back into PDM
- Check voltage at both head light switch, brake light switch, and work light switch (all red/yellow wire fed from PDM) – no voltage
- Check continuity from switches to PDM (red/yellow wire) – all check good no break. What happened to the 7.7V???
- I did jumper 12V to the red/yellow wire at the switch and lights came on so I know the lights work.

An odd thing happened last night when looking around. With the key in the on position the lights all start flashing on and off and also heard a clunking sound from the rear almost like a gear shifting. I quickly starting moving things back and forth to see if I could influence it or get the lights to flicker or stay on. At one point changing the gear to park and pushing slightly forward kept the lights on for a short while. After they went off a few seconds later I could not get them to turn back on by moving the stick shift.

I am leaning toward a bad PDM and the gear shift was a fluke and the PDM is just going in and out, but from what I have read the main problem with the PDM is starting. Mine starts fine. Thoughts/ideas? Should I be getting 12V out of the PDM terminal or does something pull from this when the plug is plugged back in? I would hate to buy another PDM and find out it is something else that is much cheaper to fix. Any feedback or things for me to try would be greatly appreciate. Thanks in advance - Clay

I ordered a 2019 850xxc.
I’m glad they didn’t have any 2018 in my general area, had to wait and get a 2019.
Should be here in July!

I’m kinda rethinking my decision though.
I was also looking at the Outlander vs Renegade.
Is the Renegade harder to ride slow technical trail vs the Outlander? Are they clutched differently? I’ve heard that the Renegade is clutched more for racing.
Input any thoughts,
Thanks

I have an issue, my outlander stop suddently to start and theres no display. My first guest was the battery, i've tryed to boost it and charge it, but din't changed. Except one the start works while it was plugged in with the battery charger and theres was nothing on display that was problematic (no check engine) no information about the low battery also. To test it i stop it and wait a bit and restart and nothing shown.

I have also check the spark plugs and theres no one that was burnt. I've change them anyhow with the spare one included in the box and still nothing.

I've checked in the forum and somes mentionned the Key issue and also the kill switch but i would like to know if the key issue can happens if nothings is displayed ?

More infos about my bike theres about 6500km done on it.

Hey all, I'm new to the Polaris family. I picked up a 08 trailblazer 330 and the PDM is smoked. The ones for this year are insainly expensive but there are ones for a 2006, module 2203348, that look the same but have an adapter harness to work in the 2006. Has anyone tried to use them in place of the
module 4011831 or have a pinout diagram for the older module? I looked at the older manual and it looks like the ECM is different and thus why the adapter harness. If I could see what the pins on the module are I would be able to tell if it will work.