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A couple months ago I bought a 2003 sportsman 600 for a fixer upper. I got it running and driving. It was missing the speedo when I got it, so I ordered one. The 3 in the VIN, looks like a 7 and I ordered a 2007 cluster by mistake. It still lights up, and the tach works; however, I am having some other issues. I do not know where my issue is, but hopefully you guys can help me out. I have read about different issues people have had for hours, but I cant find much to help me.

I have read that my machine does not have a fuel gauge from the factory, but this cluster has it built in, I am not concerned about that though, I am fine taking the cap off and looking inside.

When I turn the key on and all of the lights come on, about 1/10 times the PRNLH light up for a half second, and go out. Other then that, the gear indicator lights do not come on. I tested the sensor on the tranny, and it seems to be working fine. The brown wire to the sensor also has a conection to ground. The speedometer does not work. I cleaned the disc, it did not help any. The AWD only comes up on the cluster when pushing the yellow bypass, that is also the only time the red lights up the "AWD" on the switch.

I am going to try to test the hall sensor. From what I understand, I use an LED, a 9 volt battery, and some wire. I just wanted to see if anybody has some advice in the meantime, Thanks in advance!!

So, over the years i have modified my 2010 850 xp. I really like my atv, but it feels like something is missing. My current setup is a 3" HL lift, 29.5" OL2s. I put the team industries 14% gear reduction in a while ago and I have QSC clutch kit installed with both "washers" under the drive clutch spring. While reading other ppls posts, it always appears you get a snappier feel when a qsc clutch is installed. Mine does not feel snappy at all. It is super smooth on engagement. But it just doesn't seem like there is any power. I had in the past before the lift kit an EPI clutch. With that kit, i noticed my engagement rpms were higher and when it kicked in, you felt it. I have a 2011 850 i ride that is stock. I rebuilt the motor, trans, front and rear diffs as well as the drive clutch/one way bearing. The stock 2011 just feels like it has so much more low end torque than my current setup. I'm not sure if I did something wrong with putting the small gear reduction in and the qsc clutch. I understand with adding larger tires, you loose power and you try to gain that back via clutching / gear reduction. With the 14% gear reduction installed, should I be using the factory clutching? Should I rethink my gear reduction and do the ranger gear reduction that gives you approx. 30% w/ stock clutching or do I need a clutch kit? Any input would be greatly appreciated..

I blew a rear ujoint on my 2016 6x6 650, I have the shop manual and it states to move the axle back to make room to install the new propshaft. Has anyone thought of shortening the shaft to make it easier to replace the shaft. It would be tons easier. I don't want to drop the stinger or slide everything back just to reinstall the shaft. On a car the shaft slides just enough to install the unoimts but on the 6x6 when the shaft is compressed it is exactly the size it needs to be when installed. Small diff a inch of shaft will make but will it weaken the shaft?

I have a 2010 Sportsman XP EPS 850 the 20a drive fuse blows immediately when I move the selector switch from 2x4 to 4x4, even with the engine off and the ignition on. I located and disconnected the 4-wire harness behind the left front wheel that feeds the front differential and now the fuse doesn’t blow. Does anyone have any experience troubleshooting this issue any further?

Hi all,

I am new to this forum, and this is my first post. I own a 2015 Commander XT-P 1000 and am purchasing a new Outlander XMR 850 in April. I am a researcher by trade, so everything I do involves a ridiculous amount of data collection. I have settled on the Outlander XMR 850, but now I need to accessorize it for my needs. The one accessory being a rear storage bag that is functional but also looks great. I stumbled on the new LinQ Premium Ogio bag (P/n 715002923) that is for the Maverick Trail, but looks like any other bag. The size of it looks like it would fit on the Outlander rack, but not sure.

Does anyone have any REAL experience with this Ogio bag or know if it fits an Outlander rack? I can't seem to get any real reviews or pictures of the interior.

Any thoughts on reliability, stability with the LinQ, space, etc. would be appreciated. Also, any interior pictures, or pictures of it setup on an Outlander would be awesome. I know Ogio makes great bags, so I am confident this will be too.

I tried searching forums, Google, and Facebook...nothing much posted. I think it is fairly new and looks great, but for $379 I want to know it is worth it.

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Hey fellas new to the page and I'm looking for a little insight.

Bike is a 08 renegade. small slip on exhaust and snorkel. stock other than that. It sat for most of the summer, fired it up to move it around a little and charge the battery. Ran fine. Went to start it up before it snowed and now nothing. Cranks all day long but no fire. Did new plugs and wires were recently replaced. still nothing. I have 12v goin to the coil and I have signal to each side of the coil. I have checked injectors and I also have an injector pulse which I figured would eliminate a crank or cam sensor issue. Fuses are good and I've gone though and cleaned all my grounds too..... am I missing something or is the coil positively the bad issue before I replace it? I've double and triple checked everything to avoid looking like a retard on here first lol

thanks
matt

I am going to be taking off the clutches on my Sportsman soon, and wondered about what the best options are.
I can make a spider holder and hold downs, but I think the sheaves will need replaced anyway. I wasn't sure what I was looking for when replacing the belt this summer, other than cracks. There is definitely noise from the clutches.

Mainly, what is the best option - rebuilding if clutch is in serviceable condition, search for a good used oem, or aftermarket?
I can find a generic Chinese aftermarket clutch for ~$70US or some that say made in US for $160+.
It's about $60 for a rebuild kit, where I found.
Does any one have experience with the generic clutches and how they hold up & if they are safe?

Thanks very much!

Installed these on my machine today.
30x11-14 Gorilla Silverbacks on the stock 14x6 ITP SS312 wheels

I'm a big fan of the skinny wide setup, especially on a machine as big as this 1000r Outlander XMR.
I searched for pics of rigs with s/w 'backs and found a few guys running them on 14x7 or 14x8 rims.
Just wanted to prove they fit in case anyone else is thinking of upgrading.
The 11's cost me $347 from Mud Throwers and I had them in 2 days.

I can't wait for spring so I can test them! :th_smiliecold:

Pics from left to right:
30x11 vs 30x9 (both are unmounted)
30x11 20psi vs 30x9 7psi (both are mounted)
last 3 pics are 30x11 at 7psi

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I have a 2016 Polaris Sportsman and am having some really weird problems with it. In mid December, the battery started going dead in the course of a night. It was rode every day as I live on a cattle farm and it is used to check the cattle and fences. So I purchased a new battery from Napa thinking it would fix the problem, but instead of it dying over the course of 1 night, it died on the 3rd night. I thought Napa gave me a defective battery so I got a different one, but it doesn't seem to be the case because its still doing it. I'm guessing there is a short somewhere on the bike, and I've already checked the 3 yellow wires that many other forum topics have suggested. I'm not very good with electrical problems/wiring, so I'm not to confident in my abilities to use a voltage meter, but can try. Also, I know safety says to hook up the positive first then the negative, but when I put the negative on first and then positive, it does spark on contact, which I assume indicates something is not right. I can take photos or videos if you guys would like.