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I have a 2004 Outlander. Yesterday I gassed it up, put in a new battery. The machine had been sitting in my garage since last year and the tank was dry. I used some starter fluid to get it to crank and bring fuel to the engine. The machine started and then died. At the same time all electric power was lost. I checked the 4 fuses in the front compartment and they are good. Can this be the starter solenoid? I checked the battery connections and they are fine. I am lost, please help.
Thank you

I have a 2004 Outlander. Yesterday I gassed it up, put in a new battery. The machine had been sitting in my garage since last year and the tank was dry. I used some starter fluid to get it to crank and bring fuel to the engine. The machine started and then died. At the same time all electric power was lost. I checked the 4 fuses in the front compartment and they are good. Can this be the starter solenoid? I checked the battery connections and they are fine. I am lost, please help.
Thank you

I?ve been picking apart what may be a clogged fuel system, I?m getting good fuel from the tank to fuel switch, it was very hard to blow air through the switch (now blown out).... cannot blow any air through the fuel pump (ordered a new one).....rerouted a fuel line from the tank to carb, is gravity feed enough to fill the bowl? The drain plug is out of the carb and not getting any fuel draining by gravity alone...

Hey guys new to the forums and the polaris world. I recently got a 2012 sportsman 400 h.o from a family member. It ran great I noticed the oil leave was low so I topped it up with Rotella 5w40 until I got enough oil to do a change. As soon as I put the oil it it started to smoke pretty bad on acceleration. So I ran to town picked up some oil and a filter & and new air filter, And changed it out, primed the pump it is still smoking. I did not overfill either time I put oil in. Other than the smoke it seems to run really well. Just not sure where to start. The only thing I noticed is that the oil tank vent that your suppose to pinch for priming. The plastic end that's on the oil tank is broken off so there is just a hole in the tank that I covered with my finger to prime. It never smoked when it was low on oil but I soon as I filled up it started. Please help thank you.

Does any one know where you can get touch up paint or similar paint for the 2010 Outlander Max 800 LTD Radiant Red?
Thanks

Hey guys, new to the forum and new to the Polaris world. Just sold my 2001 Honda Rancher 350 and bought a 2007 Sportsman 450 with 1400 miles and 140 hours. Anyway, my rear camber is off and the top of my wheels are leaning in. I looked at the bushings and they're all shot. So, I'd like to replace all the bushings in the front and rear A Arms and all the wheel bearings. From what I've read on here, people say to replace the metal rods in the A Arms as well. (Don't know what they're called).

Can anyone provide a link to a complete set of bushings for the front and rear that include the metal rod? Also, does anyone sell a complete set of bearings? I'm aware of the gentleman on the site that sells the high quality non lubricating bushings but I'm looking to spend much less. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, Are A Arm bushings the same on 450, 500, 700 Sportsmans? That might help narrow my search.

I searched but couldn't find an answer.

I'm working on my son-in-law's 2015 Sportsman 570 which used to be mine. It only has about 350 miles on it. He was riding it a couple of weeks ago and it started running really rough. He had to really fan the throttle to get it back to the trailer. It threw a trouble code, 636, I believe. Whatever it was, it was indicating the Crank Position Sensor. I removed it and it reads about 1000 Ohms. I checked the one on my 2017 Sportsman 570 and it read the same, so I think the sensor is okay. The bike will sometimes start, but when it does it will not idle, and backfires. This leads me to believe the flywheel key has been sheared. I've read plenty of threads on the interwebs of folks shearing the key.

So, my question is, can I remove the stator housing without draining the radiator? I've removed all the stator cover bolts and it moves around a bit. I'm guessing the magnets are holding it in place. It doesn't want to come off and I'm afraid to persuade it. I can make a couple of handles and mount them using a couple of the water pump cover bolts, but I want to make sure there's not something else I need to remove under the water pump housing.

I purchased a PDF manual and have read through the appropriate sections and don't see any mention of any additional bolts or clips or anything. I really just want to get a look at the flywheel key without draining the coolant. If I need to replace the key, I'm guessing I'm going to have to drain it, but I sure hate to do so on a hunch.

Any ideas?

And any ideas on what's going on with all the reports of sheared flywheel keys? Short of not having the crank bolt tightened enough, I can't image shearing one on a bike with a CVT.


-Matt

I was out the other day with my 2014 Outlander 1000 XT and got stuck bad in the mud with the front wheels in the air. I was getting a loud grinding noise when the front wheels would spin. I friend of mine with an 850XMR sad this is normal and all Can Am's do this. I did some reading and it could be sighns of a bad front diff. Can I get some opinions as this is my first Can Am

This is my first post, Hello everyone. I'm Matt from Saint Clair Shores, MI. I recently bought a Can Am Outlander 450. I took it Up North a few weeks ago and did the whole 10 hour break in period in one weekend. Rode some awesome trails in Lewiston, MI. Man.... that was tough. I wanted to just stab the throttle and see what she could do, but I behaved the entire time, keeping it under 40 mph. Once I got it back home, I changed the oil and diff fluids.

My plow arrived yesterday. I put it together and bolted it on, no problem. The problem is is that I'm a rather big guy... 6'5" and Ummm, pretty heavy. So when I raise the plow, the front end droops A LOT. Also... when I hit the brakes.... scrape... scrape.... scrape (the plow frame, because of the machine nose diving). I had my neighbor get on it (He also has a Can-Am with a plow) and try it, but he is half my weight, so no scraping. So I thought... oh... no problem, I'll just raise the pre-load adjusters on the front all the way up. Well, that doesn't raise it up much at all. They are set right in the middle from the factory. All the way up only raised the machine like 3/4", realistically. And the problem is still there. So, I ordered a 2" lift kit off of Ebay. The aluminum spacers that go in the springs. They are 1" thick, but are said to give 2" lift.

OK, enough of my yapping, on to my questions...

Question #1 I heard that Once you put these spacers in, you shouldn't make any "on the machine" pre-load adjustments, because the spring is now much tighter and you could break the adjuster. Is this true?

Question #2 With the spacers installed, but the pre-loads all the way loose, am I still going to sit higher than if I had no spacers, but the pre-loads all the way tight?