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I did a search and found where people has mentioned this before.

The lower rear shock bushing on my Xplorer 300 is busted and the shock moves side to side. More than likely the top one is busted as well. I think I found some OEM bushings through Polaris but they are quite expensive for what they are. Like $30 for a single bushing X 2!

I read where people have bought poly bushings and turned them down on a lathe or something to make them fit.

I was wondering if using a bronze bushing instead of rubber or polyurethane would work just as well?

Like this one below. Insert one, through one side of the shock mount and one through the other. They may have to be stuck in a freezer then pressed in using a bench vice. I theorize that bronze is a softer metal so it would wear before the shock mount or the bolt that goes through it would.

I realize this is a Polaris forum and all but I've seen other ATV makes listed in people's signatures so I was wondering if someone has any experience with this particular model. I actually signed up on a Yamaha forum when I repaired my friend's Bruin back in the spring but didn't get allot of feedback from that site.

This may be a generic "later model" ATV question. My '97 Xplorer 300 has a straight rear axle and is chain driven. Photos from Google indicate that later model Polaris ATVs also use a driveshaft coming off the transmission going to a differential like this Bruin.

After I cleaned the carburetor from sitting for three years, replaced the broken steering knuckle, rotor, caliper mounting bracket, brake pads and some broken brake hardware. Before turning it over to him I decided to have some fun with it and make sure it was going to be OK. That's what inspired me to get my own ATV which turned out to be a Polaris Xplorer 300.

Anyway while I had it, I decided to see if I could get the cable operated rear drum brake to function. This thing has two cables. One leading from the brake handle and one from the foot peg that tie to a mechanism at the drum. What a stupid setup! And to think my '97 Polaris uses a hydraulic rear disc brake and it's ten years older!

If I remember the cables looked awful and really needed to be replaced or at least taken off and lubricated. The springs also were in bad shape so I did the best I could do with it. But I managed to get the foot pedal to work (somewhat) but never had any luck with the hand brake cabel.

Back in the summer his daughter was riding it and the rear end started to knock like crazy, like driving on a flat tire. He says he removed the rear shoes and it was fine afterwards.

Now he says the differential is slinging oil and it's making an ungodly metal to metal noise.

Here is my guess. When the axle wobble initially occurred, sounds to me like one of the bearings busted. Why removing the shoes "cured" this I don't know.

Now after running it for some period of time, the worn bearing has shredded the seals. The metal to metal noise he is hearing may ball bearings that have denigrated and it gotten between the ring and pinion gears?

Sorry if this is a really stupid question but I was wondering for those that use a battery maintainer or trickle charger do you leave the positive and neg wires to the battery from the wheeler on or take them off while charging? Just don't want to hurt anything on my wheeler, I'm used to charging my boat and vexlair batterys when they are disconnected so not sure what is the right thing to do, thanks!

Hey
just wanted to ask when I go to polaris website I put in year and model and click on the fluids needed for my 2006 sportsman efi.
the oil that they are giving me to choose is the synthetic 5w50
the manual says 0w40.
I've already done the oil change when I bought it few weeks ago with 0w40 but should I now use 5w50?
what you think? and why different then manual.
thanks
Glenn

I have a 2010 outlander ltd and keeps on burning up stators. The first one burned up about 2 months ago, the other one burned up 2 weeks ago only after 1 short ride (8 miles good fishing) after installing a new one.
I did use the winch once this year and after that the next ride we broke down, short walk out and new battery and rectifier I thought it was fixed, no another walk out and replaced stator with new one. and thats where I'm at now..... going to get new stator in Grand Junction tomorrow.
Disconnected the winch till I can test it better (winch solenoid).
Heres my question What the heck is burning up my stators?

Thanks for the help

I have a 2004 Polaris sportsman. The rear right axle broke near the differential. I purchased an aftermarket axle and after installation the axle slipped out of the rear diff. I re installed it 5 times and the same thing kept happening. I then purchased a Polaris used axle and it stayed in the first install. Now that axle broke by the diff. I ordered a new HD aftermarket axle and I have the same problem. The axle keeps slipping out of the diff. Do I need to order a new Polaris brand axle? Any suggestions?

Hi folks, I have been given an atv, a 99/2000 Polaris Xpedition 325 4x4. It's in pretty good shape and does run well when the carb is cleaned. I hope to learn some things about this machine here as I've never owned one before. I need to find a manual on it, service and repair ones. E-bay has a few as well as carb rebuild kits. It hasn't had any good maintenance at all done over the years. Anyway, I hope to enjoy it. BTW, at times I have a hard time staying connected to the site. I'm using Firefox and I don't have problems on any of my other sites. Just haven't found out what is keeping me from connecting at times.

Just got an Outlander 570.
Looking forward to seeing what it will do