Alright guys. What is the purpose of the plastic cover on the drivers rear plastics of my renegade. It covers up two holes? First why are the holes there? Secondly is there a place to buy them cheap?
2002 Polaris Sportsman 700 Twin – Oil & coolant mixing
Hello,
My name is Bill. I’m not a writer so please forgive me if this seems to be one long sentence.
I have a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700 Twin I’m working on for a local guy. It starts and idles perfectly, but it bogs out over about half throttle when driving it. The valve cover was leaking so badly right above the exhaust pipes that I was afraid it would catch on fire so before really doing anything, I replace the valve cover with the updated metal one using a new gasket along with new spark plugs.
Here’s where I’m at now. I discovered it was low on antifreeze and put nearly a quart of it in the radiator. After running it for a short time I realized there is oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. The oil is milky and way over filled so I’m guessing its coolant since the coolant was low. I also noticed water (maybe coolant) in the air box. I used my combustion leak detection fluid gizmo to check for combustion gases in the radiator and found none. I tested the fluid I used per the manual using my breath and the fluid indeed turned yellow as it should. So, I’m inclined to believe the water pump seals are bad and letting oil and coolant mix with each other despite the fact that is no sign of leakage from the water pump weep hole which I pushed a pipe cleaner into in hopes of clearing any blockage that may be keeping it form dripping out of it. I’m I on the right track here? I would appreciate any thoughts or input.
Thanks, Bill
My name is Bill. I’m not a writer so please forgive me if this seems to be one long sentence.
I have a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700 Twin I’m working on for a local guy. It starts and idles perfectly, but it bogs out over about half throttle when driving it. The valve cover was leaking so badly right above the exhaust pipes that I was afraid it would catch on fire so before really doing anything, I replace the valve cover with the updated metal one using a new gasket along with new spark plugs.
Here’s where I’m at now. I discovered it was low on antifreeze and put nearly a quart of it in the radiator. After running it for a short time I realized there is oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. The oil is milky and way over filled so I’m guessing its coolant since the coolant was low. I also noticed water (maybe coolant) in the air box. I used my combustion leak detection fluid gizmo to check for combustion gases in the radiator and found none. I tested the fluid I used per the manual using my breath and the fluid indeed turned yellow as it should. So, I’m inclined to believe the water pump seals are bad and letting oil and coolant mix with each other despite the fact that is no sign of leakage from the water pump weep hole which I pushed a pipe cleaner into in hopes of clearing any blockage that may be keeping it form dripping out of it. I’m I on the right track here? I would appreciate any thoughts or input.
Thanks, Bill
03 TB 330 4×2 question on battery charging & one on starting
Bought this today. When I was looking at it the owner said it needed a battery. Seems to run great. Asked him to bring it around to where we could load it, he did, but to my surprise, it would not run without a battery hooked to it. So my question is; Shouldn't this be able to run with a dead battery once it is started? It does have a pull start, what good would that be if it won't run with a dead battery?
Any ideas what I should be checking on it?
Second; After I paid for it and loaded it he tells me when it's really cold (we're in South Dakota) he said it needs starting fluid to start at first... Hmmm, don't sound right to me
Any ideas what I should be checking on it?
Second; After I paid for it and loaded it he tells me when it's really cold (we're in South Dakota) he said it needs starting fluid to start at first... Hmmm, don't sound right to me
Got to pick some brains here,2015 850 over temp light ,limp mode
over temp light comes on then goes to limp mode.Give it 5-10 minutes and can run another mile or 2.Does Not overflow the coolant. I read someone had the same problem on a 570 and I believe he burped the radiator and was good to go. I haven't done it yet because its still at the dealer AND how would air get in there if I haven't done anything with the Radiator ? Unless the dealer did something with the heat shield recall??
Dealer cant duplicate it and the only code that came up was power steering
Radiator's clean,fan works.Iv Changed the sensor, swapped relay ,and C/B.
with that said I'm looking towards other possible causes.
25 hours on Shell Rotella T6 5W-40( I always use it and never had a problem)
They did the heat shield recall,(could the shields be trapping all the heat back on engine?)
Any suggestions??
Dealer cant duplicate it and the only code that came up was power steering
Radiator's clean,fan works.Iv Changed the sensor, swapped relay ,and C/B.
with that said I'm looking towards other possible causes.
25 hours on Shell Rotella T6 5W-40( I always use it and never had a problem)
They did the heat shield recall,(could the shields be trapping all the heat back on engine?)
Any suggestions??
aftermarket pistons
Hello, looking for aftermarket pistons for a 2003 sportsman 600. don't seem to be made. engine has low comp and need to do topend. are these cylinders plated? thanks for any holp
Warn winch won’t stop freespooling
Hey guys. Just bought my first ATV a week ago and am absolutely loving it. It's an Outlander Max XT 1000. I thought today I should try using the winch to move a tree from a trail, so I unlocked the winch and walked the cable over to the tree. When I came back, I was unable to lock the winch up so it would work. It seems to be stuck in free spooling mode. I know I can visit my dealer to fix this, but before I do, am I doing something wrong here? Seems fairly straightforward. Turn the knob one way to free spool and turn the other way to lock. Am I missing something here?
Warn winch won’t stop freespooling
Hey guys. Just bought my first ATV a week ago and am absolutely loving it. It's an Outlander Max XT 1000. I thought today I should try using the winch to move a tree from a trail, so I unlocked the winch and walked the cable over to the tree. When I came back, I was unable to lock the winch up so it would work. It seems to be stuck in free spooling mode. I know I can visit my dealer to fix this, but before I do, am I doing something wrong here? Seems fairly straightforward. Turn the knob one way to free spool and turn the other way to lock. Am I missing something here?
oil type and spark plug?
I have newly purchased a 2015 can am renegade 500 and I’m curious as to what size spark plug they call for. Also what type of oil? Summer or all season? I live in northeast Ohio and will be doing majority of the riding in the spring, summmer, and fall but will occasionally take it out during the winter also.
Yes I’m sorry another clutch thread
Okay guys. I’ve been trying and trying to do as much google searching I can. But I just want to make sure I make the best decision possible. Tired of burning through belts. 07 outty 800 30” midlite xxl tires. I have read where these are lighter big tires so a extreme mud clutch kit “shouldn’t “ be needed. Yes I’m guilty of running in high range which I will no longer do in tight trails. I called qsc and they said I should choose the non adjustable kit for 28” setup instead of the 30”. Or if a dalton go with a dbo800 non m I am assuming. From research these are the best choices for my set up, and I’m not willing to buy new primary at all. Most of my riding is trails with mud holes here and there. Clutch kits are near the same cost qsc $240 Ish. And dbo800 $212 ish. Now I see it doesn’t come with a secondary spring where as the mudder kit seems to, its $240 ish.
Again I’m sorry to post another clutch thread but I’m paranoid when it comes to ordering parts and not being sure. Posting a poll but feel free to type thoughts also.
Again I’m sorry to post another clutch thread but I’m paranoid when it comes to ordering parts and not being sure. Posting a poll but feel free to type thoughts also.
Replacing Front diff seal Qs
Hey guys, Bike is a 2012 Sportsman 500.
My front diff seal is leaking and I was going to tackle it tonight. But after Looking at it, seems that I have to possibly remove the winch as well as the skid plate , and unbolt the gear box, so I can have some movement to remove the shaft???
There has to be an easier way to replace this seal without dismantling the front end of the bike??
My front diff seal is leaking and I was going to tackle it tonight. But after Looking at it, seems that I have to possibly remove the winch as well as the skid plate , and unbolt the gear box, so I can have some movement to remove the shaft???
There has to be an easier way to replace this seal without dismantling the front end of the bike??