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Hey everyone, I got a 2015 sportsman 570 efi. Has about 2200 miles/600 hours. I use it everyday for soil testing. Been having a lot of issues with it lately. A few weeks ago it wouldn't run after a few hours when it got hot. Dealer replaced the fuel pump and wrapped the tank with heat shield. Last week I broke the throttle lever. Replaced it with an aluminum one and it ran fine. Today it was about 80 degrees. After a few hours of running. It died. Check engine light came on. Took gas cap off and there seemed to be some pressure. Added more gas thinking it might cool the gas down in tank. Seemed to work when fuel pump started to fail. Didn't help. I didn't know how to get the code. I had to start it multiple times to get back to the truck. When I gave it gas it would hardly move. Tried backing up on a hill and it wouldn't move. Acted like it didn't have any power to wheels. Back fired a little bit. It kept dying even at idle. After I got home I started it. The check engine light is no longer on but it only runs for about 30 seconds before it dies again. It starts up right away again though. It will rev up but it still dies weather at idle or giving it gas. Tried searching the forms and I can't seem to find anyone that had this issue. I checked to make sure the throttle cable was tight. Thought maybe it had to do with me messing with throttle lever. When I let off the throttle quickly the two metal contacts touch in the throttle assembly(is that what it's called?). Doesn't seem to affect weather it dies or not. Anyone got any ideas? Thank you

So i took my 1000 to get a ceramic coated clear coat on it, to see if it helps with the cleaning after each ride. So looking at the top of the head light i see the separation of plastics. Is this normal ? Nothing crazy for me , just wanted to ask...

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I own a 2002 Can-Am Quest 650.

It will start if you massage the throttle a bit and it will continue to run. BUT if you let go of the throttle and try to let it idle it will always die warm or cold.

It has Non-Oxy premium gas, a new gapped NGK plug, a good CVT belt, a new carb (as of today) and fresh fluids. After installing the new carb it runs exactly the same.

I only have a few things that I have observed since the new carb:

• The choke still doesn't do anything. It has a good cable and it is hooked up. It is fully off.
• There is a cable in the top, front of the engine that splits into two connectors. The connected side (Top image) is the Oil pressure switch. The other side has the yellow banded section and is not connected. I do not see anything in range of this connector so I don't know if this is normal or not???
• The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. I'll use it as a spare.
• I don't see this cable and connectors listed in the Can-Am shop manual. Looking for some help.

Attached Images

File Type: jpg	IMG_2037.JPG (1.01 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_2036.JPG (973.4 KB)

I own a 2002 Can-Am Quest 650.

It will start if you massage the throttle a bit and it will continue to run. BUT if you let go of the throttle and try to let it idle it will always die warm or cold.

It has Non-Oxy premium gas, a new gapped NGK plug, a good CVT belt, a new carb (as of today) and fresh fluids. After installing the new carb it runs exactly the same.

I only have a few things that I have observed since the new carb:

• The choke still doesn't do anything. It has a good cable and it is hooked up. It is fully off.
• There is a cable in the top, front of the engine that splits into two connectors. The connected side (Top image) is the Oil pressure switch. The other side has the yellow banded section and is not connected. I do not see anything in range of this connector so I don't know if this is normal or not???
• The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. I'll use it as a spare.
• I don't see this cable and connectors listed in the Can-Am shop manual. Looking for some help.

Attached Images

File Type: jpg	IMG_2037.JPG (1.01 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_2036.JPG (973.4 KB)

So some dbag stole my motor on my 8’ fiberglass boat. I need another one. Transom mount. 45-55# thrust. I’m looking at the minnkota endura c2 and the motorguide r3. I found a really good deal on the r3 but I’m torn between the two. Any recommendations?

Hey guys I wanted to ask some suggestions on where to go from here. 07 outlander 800 XT. I have full muzzy exhaust, digituner, 09 intake mod, snorkel kit, and I currently going to be stepping up from a dalton clutch kit (27” 589’s) to a CVTECH Primary. As part of normal maintenance I’ll need to get the valves adjusted (Not noisy but I’m just anal about keeping up with everything) . I wasn’t sure if it was much more work to do a cam if you’re already in there adjusting valves. What kind of gains are there with a drop in trail cam? Most of my riding is technical rocks, mountain, etc. I am much more into useable power instead of ppl that just want top end for drag racing. I don’t want to go with another Primary so the CVTECH needs to be able to handle it. What do you guys think? From research that was a couple years old it looks like the most useable power came from BOM mags and super mags...

Hi guys and gals
I am currently in the market for a new outlander just not sure which type yet. Probably 850 or 1000. Lots of big trees on my property and long driveway(+500ft) so i figured a bigger one would be better.
Not sure if i should go before oct 31st or wait and see what type of deals they come out with after halloween?
I am also trying to figure out what type of plow i want.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!

I am wondering how they determine the ground clearance on the 850's, when I bought mine the springs were set to the softest setting, the ground clearance (on concrete floor) to the lowest point under the bike was just over 9". I adjusted the springs with supplied tool and got it up to 10" at middle setting and nothing higher from the last 2 settings. Where on the bike do they measure 11.5"? What is everyone else's bike at? I just added 28" tires to try and get some extra clearance as hanging up it already an issue on some trails. 11" now with the 28's.

Hi,

My first post, hope to get some help from you.

My original dps broke down, quite common as i understand.
The dps is replaced with a new part number 709401182 according to brp spare parts.
Fine! I was able to get my hands on an almost new unit (709401182 from a XMR 650)
Installed the new dps and had my 2011 XMR 800 to my BRP dealer. They connect to the atv with buds and have the new dps calibrated. The problem is the rest of the modules in the atv won´t recognise the dps.
According to BRP europe it´s because the dps will set for either G1 or G2 the first time it is installed in an atv. And according to them there is no way of changing that later on. I have really hard to see why?

So i have a nice fully functioning dps, but i´m not able to use it since it has been installed in a G2 earlier. Could someone please tell me there is a way of resetting the dps "as new". Maybe with buds engineering, or megatech license?

/Johan.