Hi all! I am in the market for a 450L Outlander Max. I dont know a lot about this model at all but i am really leaning towards a Max model so i can carry a passenger. I already have a 570 XMR which has more than enough power for me. I am not a power hungry type of guy but i am wondering if a single cylinder max will be enough to haul 2 people for trail riding as well as do lite work around the house & property with the possible haul out of a deer or 2, No Mudding! From what i am learning it makes "just" about as much power as a Rincon, Rancher, Foreman or Wolverine. What is the reliability like? Any issues other than squealing brakes? Likes- Dislikes, Regrets/ Buyers Remorse, etc.... If you have a 450L please chime in. Doesnt matter if you have a Reg 450 or Max, new model or several yrs old. Any info will be greatly appreciated!
Muzzy Stuff
I have a 2016 outlander, looking to get the muzzy dual slip on and the digi-tuner. Just not sure where to buy. Any recomendations?
Loss of electrical system.
Good Morning All:
We have an issue with our 2007 Sportsman 500 Browning Edition, VIN 4XMN50A7A22XXXX, not sure what the exact model number is.
The issue is, a week ago I started it up and backed it out of the shop, everything was okay, later 2-3 hours I tried to start it to move it back in, turned the key on, acted like a low battery, I used the recoil started and it started right up.
A couple of days I was going to move it out, turned the key on, and speedo/dash dead, I hooked the charger up and let it charge for a few minutes and pulled the rope to start it, moved it outside and plugged the charger back in on low charge. I left it on trickle overnight. The next day I checked the battery and found 12.8 volts, dash/speedo still dark when the key is turned on. I started looking for fuses, it appears that this model has a circuit breaker contained in a PDM (power distribution module). Yes the battery has been load checked for a surface charge, it is good, all grounds have been checked, battery connections have been checked.
When the key is turned on the dash doesn't light up, if left on for a few seconds, 10-20 or so the dash will light up, tail light come on, turn the key to start and nothing happens, the solenoid doesn't activate. Then power will drop out,(voltage doesn't drop at the battery), leave the key on and the dash and tail light come back on and then will drop out. Battery doesn't show a drop in voltage during this, well slightly 12.8 to 12.77.
I have checked the harness, unplugged all sensors trying to find the cause of the what appears to be a short in the system. I have used a fault finder that transmit a RF signal and can trace the signal to the PDM, when the dash lights up, the signal will go on through and can be traced to the EMC and to the dash Pod. I have unplugged the ECM, and the issue still exist so I feel the issue isn't there. I have pulled the ignition switch and checked for proper operation with an Multimeter, it checks good. All accessories have been taken out of the system to try and eliminate the problem.
At this point I'm at a loss, it appears to be the PDM, but at $400+ I don't want to guess. Part number 4011517, and it looks like it is 2007 500 specific.
Wondering if anyone else had this issue and found the cure.
Thank you for any help anyone can part with.
Pullerguy Les
We have an issue with our 2007 Sportsman 500 Browning Edition, VIN 4XMN50A7A22XXXX, not sure what the exact model number is.
The issue is, a week ago I started it up and backed it out of the shop, everything was okay, later 2-3 hours I tried to start it to move it back in, turned the key on, acted like a low battery, I used the recoil started and it started right up.
A couple of days I was going to move it out, turned the key on, and speedo/dash dead, I hooked the charger up and let it charge for a few minutes and pulled the rope to start it, moved it outside and plugged the charger back in on low charge. I left it on trickle overnight. The next day I checked the battery and found 12.8 volts, dash/speedo still dark when the key is turned on. I started looking for fuses, it appears that this model has a circuit breaker contained in a PDM (power distribution module). Yes the battery has been load checked for a surface charge, it is good, all grounds have been checked, battery connections have been checked.
When the key is turned on the dash doesn't light up, if left on for a few seconds, 10-20 or so the dash will light up, tail light come on, turn the key to start and nothing happens, the solenoid doesn't activate. Then power will drop out,(voltage doesn't drop at the battery), leave the key on and the dash and tail light come back on and then will drop out. Battery doesn't show a drop in voltage during this, well slightly 12.8 to 12.77.
I have checked the harness, unplugged all sensors trying to find the cause of the what appears to be a short in the system. I have used a fault finder that transmit a RF signal and can trace the signal to the PDM, when the dash lights up, the signal will go on through and can be traced to the EMC and to the dash Pod. I have unplugged the ECM, and the issue still exist so I feel the issue isn't there. I have pulled the ignition switch and checked for proper operation with an Multimeter, it checks good. All accessories have been taken out of the system to try and eliminate the problem.
At this point I'm at a loss, it appears to be the PDM, but at $400+ I don't want to guess. Part number 4011517, and it looks like it is 2007 500 specific.
Wondering if anyone else had this issue and found the cure.
Thank you for any help anyone can part with.
Pullerguy Les
Upsize tires
Question:
I have a 1999 335 sportsman with 23X7-10 on front and 24X11-10 on back. Will I damage gears by going up to 24s on the front and 25s on back?
I have a 1999 335 sportsman with 23X7-10 on front and 24X11-10 on back. Will I damage gears by going up to 24s on the front and 25s on back?
Tires
I have a 1999 sportsman 335 with 23X7-10 on front and 24X11-10 on back. Will I damage gears by going to 24's on front and 25s on back?
Tires
I have a 1999 sportsman 335 with 23X7-10 on front and 24X11-10 on back. Will I damage gears by going to 24's on front and 25s on back?
Newb Axle Question
Hey guys. I recently purchased a 2005 (says 50th anniversary) Sportsman 500, and i need to replace the LR axle. The boot is ripped, and it skips and clunks and jumps pretty bad when i do sharp turns.
My question is this: It says it a 2005, but its the non-square headlight style. All of the axles im finding seem to be for the 2002-2005. Is the body style i have still the same rear axles as the older models?
Thanks for your help!
Mine:
My question is this: It says it a 2005, but its the non-square headlight style. All of the axles im finding seem to be for the 2002-2005. Is the body style i have still the same rear axles as the older models?
Thanks for your help!
Mine:
interior very hot
just purchased a 2017 1000 commander. When riding the interior is very hot to the point of uncomfortable. There is hot air that blows up in the holes in the floor. If you are wearing shorts you will want to keep your legs out the door. Drinks put in the cup holders become to hot to drink. Looking under I can see just some reflective tape to keep the heat out. Is anyone else have this issue? Are there any aftermarket heat shields? I have looked but cant find any.
Thanks Keith
Thanks Keith
Need help with Outlander 330
Hello everyone.
So one of mine is giving me an issue.
what is causing the horrible high pitch sound when pressing the starter button. see video below.
https://youtu.be/5zOslqGo0Bs
I know the plastic reduction gear cover is broke and that's what was causing the rattling after it started but what is causing the horrible noise when I hit the start button? It fires right up and the starter gear appears to be working correctly because it engages and disengages from what I can see with the cover off it. I pulled the starter out earlier and bench tested with a 12v power supply. It spun with no issues and no noise but I'm wondering if it is because there was no resistance on it. Any ideas???
So one of mine is giving me an issue.
what is causing the horrible high pitch sound when pressing the starter button. see video below.
https://youtu.be/5zOslqGo0Bs
I know the plastic reduction gear cover is broke and that's what was causing the rattling after it started but what is causing the horrible noise when I hit the start button? It fires right up and the starter gear appears to be working correctly because it engages and disengages from what I can see with the cover off it. I pulled the starter out earlier and bench tested with a 12v power supply. It spun with no issues and no noise but I'm wondering if it is because there was no resistance on it. Any ideas???
Charging gremlin
Ok , I’m at a loss now.
2013outlander 1000xmr , battery not charging. Has died on last run when using lights.
Recharged battery.
Disconnected all aftermarket accessories. Checked all fuses , Checked main grounds from batt to frame and engine , checked batt + cable and negative connections, checked for voltage from mag ( 19v and up ) checked voltage at output of regulator ~15v ,
Check voltage at battery while running idle , 12.3 , under acceleration still 12.3 V.
Any ideas out there ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013outlander 1000xmr , battery not charging. Has died on last run when using lights.
Recharged battery.
Disconnected all aftermarket accessories. Checked all fuses , Checked main grounds from batt to frame and engine , checked batt + cable and negative connections, checked for voltage from mag ( 19v and up ) checked voltage at output of regulator ~15v ,
Check voltage at battery while running idle , 12.3 , under acceleration still 12.3 V.
Any ideas out there ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk