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Hello all, I've been looking at past threads about wheel alignment and have a couple of questions. I noticed my handlebars are slightly turned right to maintain a straight direction of travel. I must've hit something but my tie-rods don't look bent. Is it as simple as just re-adjusting the tie-rods to make straight again or there's been mention of taking it to the dealer and having them connect it to the BUDS system to make them straight? When they connect it to the buds system does the shafts from the top handlebars and the lower re-alingn back up within the power steering unit? I guess what does hooking it up to the computer do? Thanks in advance!!!

Ok, so I got the Cvtech here, and it came with a small washer thing that does not slide over the bolt.

AND, this bike has a stud to mount the primary....it unthreaded as a bolt though. When threaded into the new clutch it's too long to tighten. And that nut on the end of the stud sure doesn't want to come off....7mm allen key just bends when I try to remove the nut.

What am I missing here?
THanks

So i have a 2017 Maverick DPS and i wanted to put my reverse override switch up top next to the sport/Eco switch so i could run my reverse lights switch where the reverse override switch normally runs. The only problem is i didn't want to hold down the switch to stay in override. So i took the switch apart and inside there is a little metal tab that applies pressure to the switch to keep it off. All i did was flip that metal tab around and now my reverse override switch stays on the hole time and i now have to press and hold for it to be off. Just thought id share this with everyone who doesn't want to spend money on a new switch to get this mod. Thanks.

WTB aftermarket rear bumper for my 2016 Can-am Outlander 650 MAX DPS.

Hello,

I am sure this is an issue that has been discussed but I was unable to find a thread to answer my questions. I have been searching for a set of 12 inch rear rims for my 2001 xplorer 425 with no luck. Currently I have the factory set up of:

12x6 with 4/156 bolt pattern for front
10x8(9?) with 4/4 bolt pattern for the rear and 3 1/2 back and 6 front spacing.

I am having the hardest time finding a set of steel rims in the 12x7 or 12x8 (preferred) size with the 4/4 bolt pattern (they're all 4/156!!). Anybody either have a used pair in east TN area or know of where I could buy new?

Thank you in advance.

I am working on a 2000 Xpedition 425 and the speedometer needle is on the wrong side of the pin. At first I believed the speedo wasn't working but after further inspection I noticed the needle on the wrong side. By pin I am referring to the button that changes the odometer settings. Has anyone had this happen? The service manual says the speedometer can stick if the machine is turned off while in operation and driving the speed shown will reset the needle. That is not an option for me with the speedo needle maxed out. Is it possible to reset the needle?

I have recently bought a polaristhat will not start but I'm not much of a mechanic so I don't know exactly what would be the issue. It is an automatic with electric AND a kick start. When i try to electric start it, it studders but won't turn over. When i try to kick start it, it sounds like it wants to start but just won't. So i tried hitting the electric start then kick start and it sounds very promising until it makes a clanking noise. I visited a lot of websites to try and figure it out and i think it could be the starter or the one-way but I honestly have no idea so some advice would be really appreciated. Thanks

I think my RPM's may be creeping up during shiftout after my re-flash and want to give this clutch tuning a try. I have a REVX. The thought of doing this solely based on watching the tach/speedo was not something I was looking forward to though. I then remembered about a GTech Pro RR meter I have brand new in the box! Among all the 1/4 mile, 0-60 times, trap speeds, etc I can also have it graph RPM vs TIME during a 0-60 run which will allow me to analyze my RPM's as I make a run to 60mph or even the 1/4 mile if I wanted to. I can also upload it to my computer and view all the data using GTech's software. It's the closest thing I have to having my personal dyno and MUCH easier than trying to monitor speed and RPM's while riding. I can log all this data at either 10 or 20 times per second and use it to display all sorts of graphs.

I just don't know if it will work like I would want it to. I'm more concerned about the RPM sensing through the 12V signal. One has to go through a calibration process to get the meter to learn the signal based on varying RPM's. As far as the times and stuff, they don't have to be super accurate, just consistent enough to show changes from different clutch weights. Has anyone tried using one of these to tune their clutch? I would think it would be much better than trying to do your own data logging off of reading the gauge cluster....lol

Here's the manual for the one I have. http://www.gtechpro.com/manual/RR4.0.pdf