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I've been having this mysterious oil leak ever since I bought my 97 Xplorer. First I thought it was the oil tank (which it was, the level sensor) then I thought it was the transmission. But it's still leaking oil. Now I'm convinced that the oil leak is coming from the oil injector.

So I started inspecting around the engine. I tried taking some photos after I got home from work this morning but my phone malfunctioned.

On the passenger side there is a small drain hose with a 45 degree cut in it and oil leaking from it. I'm assuming it's a factory hose.

On the other side there is a light brown nipple with no hose on it (has to be missing). When I open the throttle, I can see a small amount of oil being pushed from the nipple then sucked back in when I close the throttle. Is this supposed to be connected to something?

I don't trust this injector. I'd really like to do away with this system and just pre mix my gas and oil like I do on everything else I own, even my car (Trabant 601).

My plan is to cap the 1/4" supply nipple off on the injector with a vacuum hose and any other small nipples to prevent any false air leaks and just pre mix my fuel for my Xplorer like I do on my Trabant.

I've tried to research what the safe ratio should be.

I have used that 30 weight Opti-2 which is a 100:1 mix with no problems. I normally run all my stuff at 40:1, even some of my 50:1 engines.

I'd figure by this day and age, 32:1 would be safe but more likely 40:1.

Any of you guys have done away with this tank/injector? What ratio do you use?

Maybe I can shoot some photos and post.

Hi,


I've been reading various posts now for a while but overall I'm new to the forum. I've seen a few post that have sort of touched on this subject but nothing really definitive. I'm looking for a 2 up atv to ride with my kids. I want something that's comfortable and reliable. When I research online it's mostly just brand "bashing" with no real answers or rider experiences. Can anyone provide input on riding the Can Am vs Polaris vs Arctic Cat? What size would you recommend?


Thanks

Since I caught a rash of poo for saying the quad handled better without the swaybar and I was shown that pro gncc teams run sway bars.....I decided to make a quick disconnect so I could try the quad both ways in all the varied terrain I ride. I'm a couple hours from huge mud parks, extremely technical rocky stuff in WV, Sandy/dune areas and then where I live is rolling terrain with rocky clay soil.

On to the work, Ill attach all the pictures in the post below. The idea belonged to SquireCSA of this board first, I was just lucky enough to stumble across his post mixed in with some suspension bushing post. I wanted to make this post so it would be easy to search and for other people to find.

1.Remove left side bolt where it attaches to the cross over bar and replace it with a safety pin (the kind used for towing). Do the left side and not the right side so it does not smash in to the muffler when you get the suspension at full compression. I just took my bolt to the hardware store and found one the same OD as the bolt I removed.

2. Thread a large Zip tie (Or Paracord or stainless wire) through the hole in the frame and make it into a loop. When you unhook the sway bar just attach the end of the L bracket to the zip tie in your frame. Give it enough slack for full droop and you will be good to go.

I have ridden it hard with this setup and no issues so far. The only place I find the sway bar beneficial is in the sandy dune areas, everywhere else I still like the sway bar disconnected. I plan on racing the quad again this Fall and will do so with the sway bar attached to see if I like it any better.

Pics BELOW! Any questions please ask, hopefully some people will find this thread useful.

Ok Guys, I need help. I ordered a Can Am primary clutch removal tool from E-Bay. It came in and the part number is PCP-16, I removed the 13 bolts from the cv cover and removed the clutch bolt from the clutch and the puller threads doesn't fit where the bolt came out of. I called EPI to verify the part # and they say it is the correct puller for my machine and a bunch other Can Am's. The tech I talked too said I have to remove the outer part of the clutch, then use the puller on the inside to pull the rest of the primary off, to replace the belt. Is this correct.

Thx

21 hrs, 260 kms. Started having electrical issues

it is in polaris shop now for electrical issue with wire harness that comes up to pod. When i turn left engine dies or if you move harness with your finger it quits. Plastic cover looks like its breaking the wires through the loom. Braided hose for brakes runs right beside harness.

Not sure if they will replace harness or just repair the broken wires. Will call today.

Having them do the first 25 hr service as well

just mad it by 2 days for my warranty to expire.

I have a 2013 rene xxc 1k so it should have a visco lok qe in it. I've noticed that my front tire will spin for about 3 seconds before it will finally engage the other wheel. I thought it was supposed to engage a lot faster than this???