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What brand of oil are most of you all using in your Polaris Sportsman? I used Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic (blue jug) in my 2008 Arctic Cat 650 H1 when I had it. Also used a WIX oil filter. I use the Rotella 15w-40 and WIX oil filters for my Suzuki Eiger 400 also. The Rotella is JASO MA approved oil for motorcycles and ATV's. Seeing that Polaris has it's own separate transmission I was just wondering if it's ok to use other brands of oil besides the Polaris brand recommended oil.

Tony

I have noticed that the parts selector on web sites show basically two rear swingarm choices (excluding color). One for 2013 and older and another for 2014 and newer. Aftermarket has one arm for pretty much all years. As the attachment hardware parts are the same for all years any insight as to why the catalog number differs? I would like to swap a 2011 arm onto a 2014 machine.

Thanks,

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Has anyone experienced a P1513 code with FAULT 1 ? I have a no start condition. Fuel pressure is acceptable, spark looks fine, not firing the injectors though. The POD seems to be doing some odd things also. Will the Display stop the bike from running if it is not working correctly? I have seen it display a bunch of backwards R's and sometimes you can turn the key on and display looks fine, the next time it stays blank. Please Help! If you need anymore details let me know.

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In the process of pulling out my rear differential, cleaning it and replacing the seals because of water getting in. Where do you buy parts from? I usually go to babbitts but they want $50 for three measly seals, seems a little high to me.

Part numbers are 3235052 QT2 and 3235051 QT1

Not sure if any members would enjoy seeing dyno graphs and the machines that go with graphs with a little bit of mod info as well.

Will start with this 2016 outlander 650xt max, first run bone stock and final run after some mods without ever pulling a valve cover off. Simple but effective mods, hmf slipon, 51mm TB, twinair filter, Dynojet PCFC, cvtech primary, Stm secondary, intake manifold is ported and stock head pipes have the welds cleaned up. Machine is dual cylinder tuned which is extremely important for the best throttle response.

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Looking for some info on a 2006 Bombardier 800 Outlander Max 2-up. There is one in my area for sale that looks to be in great shape. My brother is in the market for one. This particular machine is a 2006 Bombardier 800 max XT with 2750 miles. According to the owner:"New clutch in 2016, heated hand grips, street legal, hard box, winch, windshield, NEW TIRES! Always stored inside and well maintained. Recently serviced" I have a couple of newer Can Am 570's (2018 & 2016 2-up) and only had them about a year. I love both of them, upgraded from a couple of Honda 420 Ranchers absolutely no comparison of course. Am curious about these machines that are a little older, I have been trying to get my brother to covert over to a Can Am ever since I bought my two. He is slowly seeing how much I am enjoying my machines, the smoothness of the ride when we are on the trails, and just the machine over all. He is in no position to buy a new machine and I came across this machine on Craigslist. With everything that is listed above it certainly looks like it is worth what they are asking. I don't know anything about the older machines, the 500's or the 800's, I have a friend who just purchased a 2011 500 that is in near perfect condition and know the folks he bought it from, it was female ridden and babied from day one. This 800 looks like it has been well taken care of, the party that has it for sale is asking $3300 for it. If anyone knows anything about these machines I would sure appreciate any information from anyone that knows anything about this particular machine, thanks in advance, FF.

I've looked at a few sites because I've decided to get a fuel programmer for my 18 850 (riding this weekend on this hot machine was the last straw, some of the plastic above the exhaust just about burned me when i touched it) Many of the sites only say 16-17 850 though? I don't want to risk buying one for a 17 and have it not work for whatever reason. Also, I don't want to break the bank just to richen the machine up so which tuner do you guys recommend? Sorry if this has been asked before the search function can be less than useless at times :th_smiliepc:

Put my clutch back on, put the belt on. Cranks fine, runs fine but the second it’s in gear the belt doesn’t grab. You can smell the belt burning. The secondary looks as if it is jumping. The rpms got up to 6000 and was barely moving. Any input would be appreciated!

Hey guys, so my voltage regulator got fried for a second time on the weekend. My factory regulator lasted about 2500 miles and this one, an rm stator regulator lasted about a thousand miles. The last one did the over voltage deal and I replaced it so I didn't do any damage to my electronics. But this rm stator just about started on fire. I noticed my low voltage warning and within about 30 seconds, my machine shut down and smoke was pouring out of the regulator and the guts were dripping out onto my winch. I have cleaned ALL my connections after installing the rm stator, as the wires going to it from the stator were what I thought was too hot. I have all good grounds and can't find any bare wires anywhere. So I guess my question is how hot do your wires get from your stator? and what kind of voltage regulators are you having luck with? thanks