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2003 sportsman 700, fuel is dripping out of the overflow tube so thought might as well throw in a whole carb kit. Any recommendations on brand, All Balls, Moose, Quad Logic or Outlaw. Funny thing is the part pictures on most sellers are all the same picture, so thinking they are all the same kit anyway. Thanks for your time
Also anyone use or have any luck with DynoJet kits.
Donn

Fellow 570 folks,

Have you ever heard of a 450i Sportsman model? There is a 2013 that I am somewhat interested in, but wanted to find out the specifications before I went any further. Don't want to contact the seller yet until I know more about that particular quad. It is advertised as a 450i.

I tried to check out the specs on several atv sites, including atv.com and could not find that model anywhere.

Will now try the official polaris site. Thought that maybe someone here might be familiar with it.

I hope it's not inappropriate to ask a non-570 question here.

Thanks!

Lite weight/paddle like tread/some rd. gravel use. True to size! Very important!
Need only personal experiences, having riding style as this. Too many guys trying to speak on this, without too much knowledge for riding in heavy lite sand! Way different than rock, road, mud, hard pack that their use to!
Thanks for any help, appreciate it

Hi,

I have a 2003 Sportsman 400. I was plowing my driveway this morning, and it suddenly completely died. There's no power to the ignition, and the display on the speedometer shows nothing. The battery is only a couple of weeks old, and connections are tight. I'm an average weekend fix my own stuff type, but I've no clue on this one. Any ideas?

Robert

I have a 2000 sportsman 500 and the rear rims are 10” , can I put a 12” rim to replace it so all four rims are the same ? Any help would be appreciated.

My 2014 800 has a vibration through the floorboard and rear rack at certain rpms. It goes away after giving gas but its when I first start going. Anyone notice this as well?

Bought an '11 Vic with the 4.6L back in June and a few months back I tried to change out the plugs. All came out ok except for cyl 4 which only cranked out 1/4 turn. Had a shop take it out and they said they had to redo the threads. I've seen videos where you can remove a stuck plug by drilling into it somehow, but because this was in the 4 position and hard to get to I'm guessing they just power cranked it out. Not sure but I'm guessing those threads are compromised now.


Well, this past weekend that same plug blew out of cyl 4. Inspection reveals a coil and boot jammed up underneath the fuel rail and a plug that I fished out without any turning. When I go to install a new plug it just sits on top of the threads and turns without going in. So I guess what's happened is that the plug rotated most of the way out but when it got to the last couple threads the compression blew it out the rest of the way, and that it's just the top few threads in the hole that are damaged. Inspection of the plug reveals that most of the threads are intact except for the 2-3 that are closest to the element.


So my question is...should I try to fix this myself or just take it to a shop? Some kind of tap tool would probably fix it, but since it's the beginning threads that are boogered it'd probably have to start from the inside of the cylinder. I really don't have a clue as to how to approach this.

Bought an '11 Vic with the 4.6L back in June and a few months back I tried to change out the plugs. All came out ok except for cyl 4 which only cranked out 1/4 turn. Had a shop take it out and they said they had to redo the threads. I've seen videos where you can remove a stuck plug by drilling into it somehow, but because this was in the 4 position and hard to get to I'm guessing they just power cranked it out. Not sure but I'm guessing those threads are compromised now.


Well, this past weekend that same plug blew out of cyl 4. Inspection reveals a coil and boot jammed up underneath the fuel rail and a plug that I fished out without any turning. When I go to install a new plug it just sits on top of the threads and turns without going in. So I guess what's happened is that the plug rotated most of the way out but when it got to the last couple threads the compression blew it out the rest of the way, and that it's just the top few threads in the hole that are damaged. Inspection of the plug reveals that most of the threads are intact except for the 2-3 that are closest to the element.


So my question is...should I try to fix this myself or just take it to a shop? Some kind of tap tool would probably fix it, but since it's the beginning threads that are boogered it'd probably have to start from the inside of the cylinder. I really don't have a clue as to how to approach this.

Hi, I'm sure this is not an uncommon problem, bought a used 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI, noticed the front driveshaft front yoke was pretty loose on the front diff input shaft. Bought a new Polaris yoke and spring pin, installed new u joints, reinstalled the shaft, found the splines on the input shaft are worn and the yoke is still a bit wobbly, a lot better than it was, but I'd like to get rid of the play if anyone has ideas. Thought about drilling out the spring pin holes and installing a bolt and nut, or drilling and tapping the yoke at 90 degrees to the pin and using set screws...Tell me your ideas on how to get the play out short of buying and installing a new input shaft, big $$$$.