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I purchased a used 2006 Sportsman with Electronic Fuel Injection and It won't idle without keeping your thumb on the throttle. It just idles really low and dies. It's fairly hard starting also. Once you get going it seems to run fine and has plenty of power just like my 1999 Sportsman. There's no idle adjust screw like on my carburated 1999. Should I be running Hi Octane gas? The gas (low octane) is fairly new by the way. Maybe a couple months old. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

I’m down to fixing somewhat unnecessary items on my Xplorer. Speedo never worked since I got it. Pulled the speedo, and it was corroded and frozen on the inside. Cable was still in it when I took it off. The reset knob was missing, and it’s obvious that a ton of water got in there over a long period of time. I got a speedo from a polaris snowmobile of the same year in really good shape, really cheap. I don’t care if it’s accurate, I’d just like it to move. As I said, I’m just fiddling with little stuff at this point and will get it working if I can do it cheaply. So I Installed the speedo, put the ATV on my lift, and ran it in gear. Speedo didn’t move. Unhooked cable from speedo and ran it in gear looking at cable end, didn’t move. Unhooked the cable (at both ends) and made sure the insides of the speedo moved freely, they did, as I said, it’s in really good shape. Made sure when I spun one end of the cable, the other end moved, spins fine. By process of elimination, I’m at the speedo gear on the transmission as the culprit. I’m assuming that since the old speedo was frozen, the gear inside the housing got damaged. I haven’t taken it off yet because I wanted to see if anyone on here could explain what’s in there and how it works before I take it off and have to replace the gasket. If it’s fixable or replaceable for cheap, I’ll take it off and continue fiddling. If it will be a big pain, I’ll leave it alone and live with a pretty speedo that doesn’t function, and move on to something else. Thanks for any assistance or info.

I’m down to fixing somewhat unnecessary items on my Xplorer. Speedo never worked since I got it. Pulled the speedo, and it was corroded and frozen on the inside. Cable was still in it when I took it off. The reset knob was missing, and it’s obvious that a ton of water got in there over a long period of time. I got a speedo from a polaris snowmobile of the same year in really good shape, really cheap. I don’t care if it’s accurate, I’d just like it to move. As I said, I’m just fiddling with little stuff at this point and will get it working if I can do it cheaply. So I Installed the speedo, put the ATV on my lift, and ran it in gear. Speedo didn’t move. Unhooked cable from speedo and ran it in gear looking at cable end, didn’t move. Unhooked the cable (at both ends) and made sure the insides of the speedo moved freely, they did, as I said, it’s in really good shape. Made sure when I spun one end of the cable, the other end moved, spins fine. By process of elimination, I’m at the speedo gear on the transmission as the culprit. I’m assuming that since the old speedo was frozen, the gear inside the housing got damaged. I haven’t taken it off yet because I wanted to see if anyone on here could explain what’s in there and how it works before I take it off and have to replace the gasket. If it’s fixable or replaceable for cheap, I’ll take it off and continue fiddling. If it will be a big pain, I’ll leave it alone and live with a pretty speedo that doesn’t function, and move on to something else. Thanks for any assistance or info.

Wanted to introduce myself. I've been riding ATV's for almost 30 years now and still have a passion for it. I will be buying a new Outlander Max in the next few weeks and I will have some questions for you guys. 😁

I keep getting tired of needing isoflex and never have any left and having to order it and wait for it to come. I finally broke down and bought a can of it from my dealer. This should last me as long as I own Can Am’s and Ski doo’s.


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I've been pulling my hair out on what should be a simple project. This all started with a Master Cylinder rebuild/replacement. Kudos to Latebird for helping me get the MC reassembled without damaging the U seal.

The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).

I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.

I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.

I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.

There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.

When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.

The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.

I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.

Any thoughts?

I've been pulling my hair out on what should be a simple project. This all started with a Master Cylinder rebuild/replacement. Kudos to Latebird for helping me get the MC reassembled without damaging the U seal.

The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).

I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.

I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.

I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.

There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.

When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.

The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.

I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.

Any thoughts?

I've been pulling my hair out on what should be a simple project. This all started with a Master Cylinder rebuild/replacement. Kudos to Latebird for helping me get the MC reassembled without damaging the U seal.

The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).

I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.

I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.

I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.

There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.

When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.

The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.

I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.

Any thoughts?

I've been pulling my hair out on what should be a simple project. This all started with a Master Cylinder rebuild/replacement. Kudos to Latebird for helping me get the MC reassembled without damaging the U seal.

The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).

I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.

I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.

I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.

There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.

When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.

The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.

I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.

Any thoughts?

My 2009 Outlander 650 Max XT was in need of new boots. I opted for new axles so I would not go through the work and have bad CV joints still. So I pulled the wheel off, got the shock loose, and proceeded to try to remove the trailing arm. It will not budge! I took the retaining nut off and the washer under it. In the videos they show the next piece just sliding right out. I wiggled it, tugged on it, pulled up on the trailing arm, pushed down on the arm, put a gear puller on the piece, and it will not move. As clean as it is inside I would not think it is rusted in place. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I might need to go have an adult beverage and try again tomorrow!!

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