My opinion on Maverick belts

This is just my observation on the fabled "maverick belt" I paid 130+ for it of amazon. It's the new part number from a 2015 Maverick 1000XXC, ends with 364 instead of 702, same belt just updated part# from can am.

I have always run Gates on my Outlander up until my recent build up, during which multiple sources told me that my Gates Carbon series was trash, wouldn't hold up yada, yada, etc. so I bit the bullet and tried one.
So a little background on my build, it was a bone stock 2013 Outty 650 w/dalton clutch kit. Now it has an 850 big bore kit, Ported maverick heads, 2013 1000cc camshafts (1000cc has 245/240 duration instead of 800R's 230/240, both have same max valve lift)
Port matched intake manifold to both heads and 51mm Overbored throttle body, HMF Titan QS pipe, and PCV with the AT dual wide bands. My factory Primary had already bit the dust when the bolt went bad allowing it to spin on crank till the aluminum had changed to a nice gold color from heat, so I opted for a QSC Rev X primary, Adam at QSC is awesome and their customer service is second to none.

For reference my last belt was a Gates G series Kevlar(350+ mehh... miles) which was definitely not as good as my initial Carbon series gates (1100+ great miles) that I pulled off basically to trying test them out for my self, I installed the maverick belt with the new primary.

So I told Adam about what I had and he set up the primary initially, and my belt, after giving it an easy break in, would only hold when it was cold the engine would rev to about 8250 and hold, but after a few miles the belt would slip constantly and rev to the moon 8750+ if I pegged it. I would get a nice blast to my face with a melting hot rubber smell from the snorkel pretty much everytime i gave it any throttle even just cruisin pullin a steep hill. I should also say that the acceleration above 40 was even worse than the stock 650s, to the point of being almost nill, but only when the belt got a few miles of heat in it.

So I called Adam, and he confirmed my issue, so I ended up stuffing the heaviest slugs into each hole except 1, the second heaviest went there lol. Take the bike for a rip, and now it pulls like and 850 should, belt grabs cold at about 7600 and holds, but when hot grabs around 7800 but it at least holds there, no hunting around, and I don't get anymore really hot belt smell from snorkel, just a mild odor.

So here was an interesting finding, when I pulled my Maverick Belt to change the QSC weights out, the belts consistency had changed from when it was new, it was very stiff, but now it was pliable, gummy even, but not glazed or cracked. So I grabbed my lightly used Gates G-series Kevlar belt, to my surprise it had the same damn gummy squishy consistency, which spurned me to grab my well used Gates C-series Carbon belt, which even with the highest mileage of the three was still markedly stiffer both, torsionally and laterally.

To that end the Maverick belt exhibits the same flaws that made me unhappy with the Gates G-series Kevlar belt, inconsistent performance; changing shift-out depending on temp, lack of power holding, slipping, etc. I felt like I got taken to the wallet cleaners so I did some digging and found that both of these belts us an "aramid fiber cord", and the only real difference is probably the "proprietary rubber compound" surrounding it.

So for now I'll run my Mav belt for a bit, then I am gonna swap my used Carbon belt back in for a true apples to apples comparison. If it does the same then the only other belt I know of to try is the one from EVO performance...

I will be going on the 150 mile hell run next week so it may not be long lol.

Newbie with more Predator 90 questions

A few questions regarding my 2006 Predator 90 I bought for my daughter.
1. The factory tether doesn't work, I located the wiring harness from the dash and the two plugs are just hanging there. Where should they be wired too?
2. What type of oil should I use for the oil tank? I bought Lucas semi-synthetic low ash. Is semi-synthetic fine, or should I be using full synthetic? And not sure what low ash versus regular ash means.
3. Oil tank - seems like a lot of people eliminate the oil tank and pump and use pre mix. Is this better for the engine? If so, does the carb need to be re-jetted? It already has an FMF pipe.
4. Air filter- stock or uni-filter? And if stock, does it get oiled or run dry?
5. How important is the rubber shield thing that goes on top of the engine around the intake manifold and spark plug? Ours doesn't have it.
Thanks!

2004 Sportsman 400 NO BRAKES!!!!!!

I have an 04 Sportsman 400 that I bought recently that had no brakes. I opened the master cylinder on the handlebar, no fluid, bone dry and rusted. I am calling into question the whole system. The foot brake master cylinder is seized as well. I want to overhaul everything if it wont cost a fortune. Brakelines, calipers, pads..... EVERYTHING!

The issue is that its my first Polaris and I am not familiar with parts and where to find cheap but effective parts. If you know where To get the lines, master cylinder, calipers (front and rear) along with the fittings. Please post the link. I would greatly appreciate it.

-Austin

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rad temp / fan

Can someone tell me what temp the fan should come on 1999 - 500 cc ? Can I measure that temp at the top of the rad with a infared gun?
So much to learn.
thanks

Cant find parts

looking for clutch case seal part #5410411 but cant find it anywhere since its discontinued. is there any other parts that may work?

2016 Sportsman 570 SP Touring

Perfect condition, Ricochet a arm guards color matched. 475 miles. 2 up touring model, adult ridden and serviced. Located in s.c. MO near Dora and Drury. $6250

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Newbie Needs Help! vintage xplorer 250

To make a long story short... I'm new to the forum and recently picked up a new ice fishing rig. It is a 2001 Polaris Xplorer 250 4x4. Great light vehicle to get me around on the ice. I have some issues with it starting and I am looking for help.

Here is my problem, whenever the ATV is wet or its damp outside I get no start. Its a spark issue where I can test and ground out the plug-no spark.

I have replaced the coil, plug and plug cap - last week it started up in the garage and ran perfect with a strong spark. I drove north on a damp morning and no spark.

This week I replaced the CDI box because I saw some corrosion on it- still no spark.

I now have a bad intermittent spark, the coil is a cheap knock off that i ordered fyi.

I have no clue where to go from here, the only thing i can think of is a bad stator?

any suggestions?!?

Front Rack Jerry Can

Hey guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of these but I want to know if you guys that have used them have any reviews? They're a pretty good deal but I found out today that I'm going to have to eat up all of my savings on shipping them, 40 bucks shipping! So I better be sure they're damn good before I buy them. I have a light bar on my front rack but I don't think it will interfere with the way these mount.

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2003 trailblazer 250 compression and breather / vacuum lines

My kids 2003 trl blzer was idling high so when trying to adjust it I noticed 3 hose nipples that were bare ( 2 on the top right side one part of carb and one black plastic ) ( the other on the bottom , I assume is the over flow for the float bowl ? ) . I assume they were vents and possibly an oil supply line from the pump to the carb. Pushed it into the garage and the next day there was oil leaking from the oil pump . What happened to those lines I have no idea. I was concerned that the missing lines starved the jug of oil and that caused the high idle . I checked compression and got between 95 and 100 after 5 pulls with throttle wide open . I have spent hours looking for compression for the 244 cc motor and have found " your fine at 100 psi " and " gotta have atleast 115 psi " LOL !!! So two ?s

1 ) Will the motor run ok at 95 - 100 psi ?


2 ) Where the hell do the hoses on the 3 nipples on the carb go ?

Thanks for any info you got !