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I got my race driven brake pads in and installed and it was way too hard to get them on for one, two the wheels will barely turn because they’re grabbing. The pads appear way too thick and yes I ordered the ones for my year and model an 08 outlander 800 std.
I even took them to the grinder to knock them down some and still are too thick. Kind of sucks I’ll have to buy different pads from brp because they seem to be the only ones that work. I didn’t want to spend $90 on brake pads, so I went with race driven and that didn’t work out. Anyone else have this issue?

01 xplorer 250 4x4 the electric start wouldnt work so always pull start it didnt worry about having a battery. Decided to put a battery in it. With the battery in it i have to hold the override button when i out it in reverse or it will die. Is this normal or is this showing me something is messed up

Hi all, I have a 1996 Sportsman 400 4 x 4 that I acquired from a family member. He told me that it was running fine and all of a sudden white smoke started pouring out from under the seat and it quit running. It will turn over so i don't think the bottom of the engine is bad. My thought is that it may be the head gasket. Any thoughts before I tear down the engine?
Thanks

Ok have you heard of this happening before turn the key on for lights lights don't work and yellow check engine light comes on switch it to know lights check engine light goes off put a new battery in it thinking that maybe it didn't have enough juice to run it I don't know what else to do, replace the battery with a brand new one fully charged.

Ok have you heard of this happening before turn the key on for lights lights don't work and yellow check engine light comes on switch it to know lights check engine light goes off put a new battery in it thinking that maybe it didn't have enough juice to run it I don't know what else to do, replace the battery with a brand new one fully charged.

I picked up a barn find non running, in dire need of recusing 02 Xplorer 400. I've rebuilt the top end, and corrected a host of maintenance issues and or lack of maintenance issues. The quad will now start and move under it's own power... Yea for me... Unfortunately, it's running so rich, the fumes will burn your eyes. When trying stretch it's legs, it cannot rev out. It's definitely not lean, it's running way rich. I know based on the pungent gas smell in the exhaust fumes. It's so bad that when I came into the house from the garage where I had the quad running, the wife yelled at me "YOU STINK LIKE GAS.. go change and get a shower. Make sure you put the clothes straight to the washer".

So this is my plan....
1st - I know the float is too high and that will be the 1st thing I adjust.
2nd - I'm also going to look at the choke plunger. I Need to make sure it's fully seated when not is use.
3rd - I'll pull the jets and write down the numbers so I know what jets and needle are in the carb.

Any suggestions... or something I'm overlooking?

I have a 2016 outlander 850 that I have been using to plow the driveway and I have see two lines of oil but cannot seem to figure out were it is coming from, anyone have any ideas on what or were this is coming from.

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I have a 2012 outlander 1000 that has a metal on metal squeak. It's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from but I'm guessing the rear diff. It is intermittent as it doesn't do it all the time. When it does its usually at low speeds and will get faster with acceleration. I know my seals are bad, but I don't want to spend the time replacing them if I'm just going to need a new diff soon. I'm just hoping is not in the transmission. Anybody have any advice, or had this issue before? Any help is appreciated!

Bought a new belt, thought mine was stretched, when idles real slow or shut off machine it hits the inside of the cover - I see wear marks on it. This is a new to me ATV.
So the new belt has same deflection, it sits about 1/16" above the sheaves of the secondary when not running.
ATV runs and shifts fine, I just don't like the belt hitting the cover.
The only thing I found to adjust deflection is shimming the sheaves, the trans in not adjustable to move out the center to center dimension.
If I add shims (just got clutch off - so do not know what or how many shims are in it- looks original) this will make sheaves further apart, moving belt out some but it will lower it from the top of the sheave when not running.
Is this the correct process...
I need or would like to pick up about 1/4".
If I would of known the new belt same as old, I would of bought a shorter belt.
Playing with the idea of making a tensioner for the belt.
Thanks in advance...

Bought a new belt, thought mine was stretched, when idles real slow or shut off machine it hits the inside of the cover - I see wear marks on it. This is a new to me ATV.
So the new belt has same deflection, it sits about 1/16" above the sheaves of the secondary when not running.
ATV runs and shifts fine, I just don't like the belt hitting the cover.
The only thing I found to adjust deflection is shimming the sheaves, the trans in not adjustable to move out the center to center dimension.
If I add shims (just got clutch off - so do not know what or how many shims are in it- looks original) this will make sheaves further apart, moving belt out some but it will lower it from the top of the sheave when not running.
Is this the correct process...
I need or would like to pick up about 1/4".
If I would of known the new belt same as old, I would of bought a shorter belt.
Playing with the idea of making a tensioner for the belt.
Thanks in advance...