News

The high powered bulbs in the link below were mentioned in another thread and got my interest. These are listed as 90w and the OP in that thread says they are really bright as compared to OEM. The same seller also advertises 100w, 150w and higher output bulbs.
My questions for you electrical guys and those actually running them are:

How hot will they run?
What kind of load will they put on the wiring, switches and charging system during extended operation?
Is there any danger of excess heat and amp load doing damage or causing other electrical problems and/or deforming the housings and lenses?

The OEM lights on my new 1k are just fine but if these bulbs at this price are significantly brighter without any foreseeable downside I may give them a try.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPO...K/202174180823

I overheated an fried my relay controller. I have not been able to find the part. It is part # 4010164. Polaris has discontinued the part. Any ideas? Can you jump the relay and put a fan switch on? Any ideas on finding the relay?

Constant wheel hop

Running out of ideas. Need suggestions please! 1997 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO (found out when purchasing the wrong axles). Blade is up front to move snow.

The Polaris rides like it has an oblong tire in the front. Checked everything from the outside wheel cover to the differential. Wheel bearings were good, only 3 tires rotated and the armature did not fix to the magnetic plate when 4 wheel drive was engaged. The axle to the CV joint was rotating, it appeared normally. Adjusted the bearing seal between the outer magnet and the inner coil housing to .0025, or at least had enough gap to have the magnet freeze the armature in place so all tires were turning when 4 wheel drive was engaged.

The Hillard Clutch's were good, strut bearings were good. Hubs were straight, replaced brake pads and loosened gap to allow less rotor drag. Bought new tires in case there was a belt malfunction but the nubs were all pretty uniform and the wheels prior to putting on new tires ran straight indicating the rims weren't bent, (another way to describe the ride is an oblong hop like a bent rim would ride). The hop is constant.

After fixing Hillard clutch, reassembled front drive leaving the wheels off and watched the hubs in 4WD. The front left was all over the place. I determined that since the axle was functioning properly and appeared straight to the CV joint, that all the irregularity had to be coming from the CV joint so I ordered new axles. Ended up getting axles for non HO Sportsman which were fatter and the strut bearings didn't fit but clutch and wheel bearings fit, may have been a little longer treads on the end which may not have sealed the front hub fluid very well. Anyway, took the L axle apart to see if the CV joint was malfunctioning but, took it apart, cleaned it and used CV grease to repack it, reassembled the axles as both the u joints and CV joints were fine, switched sides (L to R, R to L) on reassembly.

I moved snow with it hobbling all last winter, with no indication of wear on front drive train, (good bearings, clutch, hubs, rotors, brakes, proper 4WD Functioning), original axles were used in reassembly. Will be moving snow with the 500 riding with a malfunction somewhere. Hard to believe it hasn't appeared to be stressing the moving parts of the front drive.


Anyone have similar malfunction that could help me to look in the right direction? Posted this under 2ritelobe2 but didn't think there would be any interest if the problem wasn't listed


RitelobeConstant wheel hop

Running out of ideas. Need suggestions please! 1997 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO (found out when purchasing the wrong axles). Blade is up front to move snow.

The Polaris rides like it has an oblong tire in the front. Checked everything from the outside wheel cover to the differential. Wheel bearings were good, only 3 tires rotated and the armature did not fix to the magnetic plate when 4 wheel drive was engaged. The axle to the CV joint was rotating, it appeared normally. Adjusted the bearing seal between the outer magnet and the inner coil housing to .0025, or at least had enough gap to have the magnet freeze the armature in place so all tires were turning when 4 wheel drive was engaged.

The Hillard Clutch's were good, strut bearings were good. Hubs were straight, replaced brake pads and loosened gap to allow less rotor drag. Bought new tires in case there was a belt malfunction but the nubs were all pretty uniform and the wheels prior to putting on new tires ran straight indicating the rims weren't bent, (another way to describe the ride is an oblong hop like a bent rim would ride). The hop is constant.

After fixing Hillard clutch, reassembled front drive leaving the wheels off and watched the hubs in 4WD. The front left was all over the place. I determined that since the axle was functioning properly and appeared straight to the CV joint, that all the irregularity had to be coming from the CV joint so I ordered new axles. Ended up getting axles for non HO Sportsman which were fatter and the strut bearings didn't fit but clutch and wheel bearings fit, may have been a little longer treads on the end which may not have sealed the front hub fluid very well. Anyway, took the L axle apart to see if the CV joint was malfunctioning but, took it apart, cleaned it and used CV grease to repack it, reassembled the axles as both the u joints and CV joints were fine, switched sides (L to R, R to L) on reassembly.

I moved snow with it hobbling all last winter, with no indication of wear on front drive train, (good bearings, clutch, hubs, rotors, brakes, proper 4WD Functioning), original axles were used in reassembly. Will be moving snow with the 500 riding with a malfunction somewhere. Hard to believe it hasn't appeared to be stressing the moving parts of the front drive.


Anyone have similar malfunction that could help me to look in the right direction?


Ritelobe

Polaris sportsman lock and ride box back rest. Mounts on the trunk. In mint shape . Willing to ship, but you pay for it. I’m in Canada. $100cdn plus the ride.

Attached Thumbnails

       

Hello Everyone;
Thinking about buying a Can Am Maverick 1000R, just wondering, do they get real hot in cab when riding in summer?
I plan on having both fr. & rear windows.
I have a 2018 Defender XT-P that I might sell and go to the Maverick, looking for a little more sport riding.

Let me know your thoughts pros and cons of the Maverick 1000R.

Thanks
kenner

Easy to do most of the wiring changes are in the pod itself. The green wire that runs down to the low beam lights, I redid the junction adding my own green wire which connects to the relay in the pod.
The relay takes the load, not the switch, could have used the switch, but don't know if it can handle the extra watts.

I also zeroed the speedometer, needle was resting at 4mph, how that happened who knows. Simply pull off needle, use 2 screwdrivers each side pried against plastic housing and off it flies. I greased the shaft, wow was it too tight on there. To reseal, I straightened the crimp ring then used hot glue all round. I dont think bending it back down is a good idea.

Not sure what Polaris was thinking about not running the lights together. And the high beam bulb is only using one filament, I wonder about wiring up both of them. Anyone done that?

Attached Thumbnails