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Maybe it is the construction policy, don't know.
Went to open up the cover to replace the speedometer cable wire.
They wrapped both wires around the brake line, ok I guess...
BUT, they put these wires very tight against the brake line bracket bolt with a cable tie, which has a sharp edge on the clamp, which cut into the cable sheath. That metal clamp edge rests right on the cables, and cuts into them over time.
And placed these wires on the forward facing side of said clamp causing even greater stress on the insulation.
Luckily, it had not yet damaged the inner wires.
I undid the top bolt and placed the wire in a better position and covered it with some black loctite polyurethane rubber made for roof sealing.
So now I need to check the other wheel's wires too.

I bought a used speedometer sensor off a newer ATV with about 1000 miles, and noted in about the same spot, a slight cut in the wire sheath, so must be their assembly policy, it's not good to cause wire damage for the end user, but its good for business! as in selling and servicing with parts replacements.

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Best battery to get for the best price for a 2004 sportsman 700 twin? ETX30LA gel battery. Thanks in advance

Hello to everyone, new to the site. I have been looking for a ATV for some time now and I think I found a good deal on a 2018 Sportsman 850 SP? I would use it as a hunting vehicle, so what do you guys and gals think? Thanks in advance for the feedback.

I have a 2004 Sportsman 600 with the coil separate from the CDI. I'm trying to trouble shoot a crank no spark issue on this quad. The factory service manual (along with many posts on different forums) states to disconnect the Black wire from the CDI unit in order to isolate the CDI from the kill system, but both the quad and the wiring diagram show the Black wire from the CDI is one of the two wires feeding the ignition coil. The Black/White wire from the CDI goes into a 2-way connector that also has a Red/White wire from the CDI. The other side of this 2 way connector has 4 wires coming out of it: 2- Black wires and 2 - Red/White wires. One of the Black wires (labeled 01 on the circuit diagram) goes to the ETC. The other Black wire (labeled 03) goes into the speedometer/display unit.

Is the Black/White wire the one I should be disconnecting from the CDI to isolate it from the kill system?

From what I can tell by the wiring diagram, the Left handle bar on/off switch only cuts the power feed (Red/White - circuit #24) to the CDI (no grounding circuit).

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Hi I'm ne where, I'm from Casselman Ont Canada, Have been riding a 08 outlander and just bought a commander so thought id sign up here.

Hi I'm ne where, I'm from Casselman Ont Canada, Have been riding a 08 outlander and just bought a commander so thought id sign up here.

I have a 2004 Sportsman 600 that I'm trouble shooting a crank no start condition.

I am trying to test the ignition coil primary and secondary coils.

I happen to have an identical quad that is running so I am testing both coils (each quad) the same.
I disconnected the connection from the CDI to the Coil (2 way connector)
I disconnected both plug wires from the spark plugs but left the caps attached

I'm measuring the primary from the Black to White wires
I'm measuring the secondary from one spark plug cap to the other spark plug cap

I'm getting the following readings:
Quad that cranks no spark:
Primary: 0.5 ohms
Secondary:14 K ohms (14,000 ohms)

Quad that runs great:
Primary: 0.5 ohms
Secondary: 8 M ohms (8,000,000 ohms)

The 8M didn't sound reasonable to me since the factory specs are 15K ohms for the secondary.
I used a different voltmeter and took several more readings and still got 8 M ohms.

I've attached the Factory Service Manual Specs and the diagram of the coil.

Am I measuring this correct? Thoughts/Comments?

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Looking for a bumper/brush guard for 2018 Polaris Sportsman 850 SP. What have you found/bought or built. Polaris has an unusual way of mounting there 2882020 bumper that makes it hard to build and or mount your own home build. What have you done. I do see the 2882020 unit for sale on E-Bay for $170 with free shipping but would like to find some-thing cheaper; or for a better price.

*wont rev all the way up to top (02 sportsman 700)

wont rev all the way up to top (02 sportsman 700)it just wont rev up to full throttle. Id say if WOT on these is around 5000, i probably get to about 4000 and then it just wont go higher and sounds like its hit a limiter.

I have an 02 sportsman 700. since I have had it( few years) I have upgraded with a second hand kokusan stator and cdi , new water pump impeller, put on new rings and head'n' base gaskets. New muffler (aftermarket),new wheel bearings and brakes new fuel pump and put in a moose carb rebuild kit.

seems to be hit and miss with running ok , sometimes this summer would start and run like a top, then not so good expecially after a little while. seemed like the old symptoms prior to ignition upgrade were recurring. it would not accept throttle after being ridden for an hour or so , it would start bucking .
First i thought it was rings, then the ignition kit. I replaced them both and things were great ....for a bit.
Then it came back spiraticaly
in the summer it would start bucking when hot, but not every time I ran it. I think it may be hot fuel in summer after the engine heats up the tank . at least that maybe a the problem.
I thought this may be a fuel issue so I replaced with a new cheap fuel pump.
found prob still happening when hooked to an aux gravity fed fuel source. but thought maybe it needs the extra push from the pump

I havent had a chance to see if the bucking will still happen because due to hot fuel because
im stuck with the WOT problem that I am here for advice for.

The problem im having currently I am having trouble figuring out.
It wont rev out all the way. it sort of hits a wall before the top .
seems like fuel issue but not sure at this point.
I cleaned out the carb, thought it was rich, so lowered needle.
made it worse. so adjusted floats to spec, and needle back to mid pos.
seemed good.
EXCEPT.
it just wont rev up to full throttle. Id say if WOT on these is around 5000, i probably get to about 4000 and then it just wont go higher and sounds like its hit a limiter.

what I mean is...

i get to the point where its all main jet and it seems either rich . kind of like its just unable to rev that high, like it hits a limiter sort of.

so I change to smaller jets (was a 157.5) 152, makes it a happen a bit sooner but doesnt fix it, so I figure it must be running lean..
so i go to larger jet 170.
and it still happens , a little later maybe but still happens.
like its hitting limitter. Its not a cough or a bucking ,
I wonder if the exhuast cant get out? maybe the valves ?

so going leaner or richer doesnt seem to fix it, going richer makes it happen at a higher rpm and leaner makes it happen at a lower rpm.

and now im @ a 170 main jet, and stock is 152 . it only happens once im past 3/4 throttle.

most people run 157.5 which is what it was running all summer with no problems up at WOT.
so its something that has changed or is intermittant.. Ive had the carb apart and cleaned a dozen times recently so It really shouldnt be dirt.

I have spark on both sides.
I have new fuel pump.
the floats are adjusted to 13.5 mm (spec)
choke on or off doesnt affect it.

one thing I noticed today was that if I hold throttle steady half way or whatever, it doesnt stay still. it goes slowly up and down a bit.
and when I hold it at WOT and it does the stuttering not reving out thing , it will come down to idle and stall. starts right up after but wont come down to idle and stay running.


Does anybody have any ideas?
been through this before?
could it be a compression issue? (seems to pull really hard and I changed rings last winter)
cam lobes worn?

Pls let me know your thoughts
cheers
T