News

sO HERE IS A SMALL LIST OF UPGRADES IVE DONE SO FAR.

ADDED BLUE HALO RINGS TO THE REAR
ADDED COLOR CHASING HALOS TO THE FRONT
CUT IN MY SWITCHES FOR HALOS AND OTHERS ON THE COVER FOR MY RAD RELOCATE
RELOCATED THE RAD
ADDED THE MR RPM OIL FILTER RELOCATION & OIL COOLER ( YES I KNOW WE HAVE ONE FROM THE FACTORY ) ADDS ABOUT 3/4 OF A QUART MORE OIL.
NEW RIMS AND TIRES
HAYDEN FAN MOD ( FOR NOW )

STILL ON THE WAY FOR THIS YEAR
ADDING MORE FACTORY HEAD SHIELDS
MOVING THE CVT OUTLET UP HIGHER
NEW BRAKE PADS AND MAYBE ROTORS
ECU REFLASH ( STILL TOSSING IT AROUND )
NEW SYNTHETIC WINCH LINE W/ REMOTE CONTROL
TIGER TAIL

HOPEFULLY ON TAP FOR THE END OF NEXT YEAR
LIFT KIT ( STILL CANT DECIDE HOW HIGH OR WHICH WAY TO GO )
LED LIGHT BAR
EXHAUST
ROCK LIGHTS
SKID PLATES
HAND GRIP, THROTTLE, AND REAR HAND WARMERS

Attached Images

File Type: jpg	IMG_1588.JPG (1.44 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_1592.JPG (2.11 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_1598.JPG (1.92 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_1635.JPG (2.24 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_1636.JPG (2.13 MB)

I recently picked up a 2011 sportsman 850xp and I'm goin through it now repairing whatever need to be fixed. I've got oil in the air box so I have the new breather kit on the way. I was just wondering if y'all put silicone on the valve cover gasket when your putting it back together? I noticed some old silicone on the front part of the gasket so I was just making sure. I also noticed a little leak coming from the seal while I was taking it apart. Any info would be appreciated, Thanks.

clean, runs great, new, front brake & rotors, carb, fuel pump, fuel lines, batt, (all works)
$2500 obo
st george ut. email desertrat8@gmx.com

Attached Thumbnails

       

I should have just cut it free.
Weak plastic parts.
So I ordered a new valve off Ebay for $8, it is a 'JB Racing' part, comes with a 1 yr warranty.
Is it any good?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Way-Fuel-...72.m2749.l2649

hello,
I'm wondering how importaint getiing an oil cooler for my quad. I do a lot of trail riding in florida and it does get hot from time to time. Would this help that problem?

Thanks,

Michael Pallos

Hey guys, just picked up my new 18 850 sportsman. Having some alignment issues with the squareness of the front tires to the rears.

Is there a pdf file for a FSM on here for my bike? Thanks a bunch!

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

My new-to-me 2015 850 SP EPS is wandering like crazy! I adjusted the toe, thinking that would fix it.. but it didn't. You'll be riding along, and it will just randomly dart from one side to another. Not all the time, but sometimes. Probably 25-30% of the time. It's damn irritating.

Given that this thing has 4300 miles on it, I'm wondering if the tie rod ends and/or ball joints are in need of replacement? The rubber boots on the tie rod ends are either badly cracked or missing entirely, but they "look" good otherwise. I can jiggle the handlebars slightly and there is no movement in them... what miniscule amount of play there is appears to be in the steering column itself (and it's very miniscule, i.e. appears normal).

The tires are new GPC Dirt Commanders, 27" size. It did it on the old stock tires too (which were the original Carlisles), but I imagine the deeper lugs of these tires exacerbate the problem. I got the wheels and tires on Craigslist as a package deal, so the tires weren't my first choice. Hard to pass up a brand new set of wheels and tires for $450 though. :)

So anyway... what do you think? Ball joints? Tie rods? Both? Neither? Bueller?

Thanks! :)

Rob

I noticed sometimes would not turn on the lights for the gears and sometimes refused to crank over and the key would not turn it off.

Took apart both switches and cleaned and greased and all are good again. This ATV had sat for about 5 years.
For starter switch used some 0w-40 oil poured into the backside of the key barrel. Scraped clean the inside contacts of the switch. You can burnish copper on brown paper bags. Then greased the contacts. I took no pictures of the key switch. To take it apart, near where a relief slot exists, pry into the 2 plastic catches to release the catch, this will release the switch assembly from the key, the 3rd catch just releases when the other 2 are free.

To disassemble multifunction switch, remove those 3 side screws, then slip it apart. This switch uses a set screw to secure it to the handle bar.
To remove the grip, I used a couple screw drivers and pulled it backwards, but have read you can shoot compressed air under the rubber handle to blow it off the handles.
The fail on the start red button slide was one of the interior copper connects had overheated deforming the plastic, so I had to enlarge the plastic space to allow the copper connect bar to slide smoothly in and out. It was stuck in the button.


This switch is a little trick to assemble,
important to install red button and the main white circuit component together into the black housing
it is important to have the red slider up all the way when installing light and reverse override buttons. This way you can lift the white circuit component up enough to fit them into place.
The spring for the start red button fits in last.

Left picture shows you assemble everything this way into one side of the cover, then slide the other black outer cover onto the pins.

I greased all the copper bars, springs and detent balls and switch elements for smooth operation anywhere it slides.
I used walmart's marine grease out of a cartridge. That grease repels water and is sticky enough to hold things in place as you put the switch back together.
Switch feels like new.

Attached Thumbnails

   

hey guys so I have a 570 2 up, was wondering if anyone would like to snow ride next week or prob this week (wed thurs etc) I was thinking either divide, Rainbow falls, maybe tarryall. Dont think the snow is too bad there. Send me a message here or i often check instagram as well send me a message as well!!

also if you guys ride dirtbikes let me know as well! even though it is end of season for 2 wheels

https://www.instagram.com/ridewithwill/