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I’m about ready to pull the trigger on new wheels for my outlander 570. I see discounttiredirect has gfx wheels. The ones I’m looking at are the Six shooter 14”

The bolt pattern says 4/136. Can someone confirm that is correct for my outlander?

Any oppinions on lug nuts? Do I need special ones are can I rescue the stock ones?

Thanks for your input.

Hi all, I am selling an 05 Sportsman 700 EFI with a winch and Polaris plow. It also comes with a Polaris storage box for the rear rack. The quad is in good shape and just had a fresh fluid service and air filter change from a local Polaris dealer. It has 1945 miles and roughly 330 hours on it. Plastics are in great shape. Belt was changed last year and Ball joints are brand new. PM me if interested. $4300 OBO. Located in Dutchess County NY

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Finally was able to take the quad for a ride on the land that we hunt. All went well until the near end. While going up an incline at higher rpm's the temperature light came on and the engine stalled. Restarted with no issue so I went on my way and turned the quad around and went down the hill. All was well until I was riding the quad onto the trailer, again the temperature light came on but this time it did not stall.
Not sure what to make of this, if it could be the indication of an oncoming or existing issue that needs to be addressed.
Other than that the quad performed well throughout the property. Any thoughts on the temperature issue?

Can I get a little help here from the "TECHNICAL GURU's" on this subject? I'm in over my head here.
I have a 2015 Polaris 570 EFI Sportsman. I got it used when it was 2 years old with 90 miles and 10 hrs on it. I only am going to use this ATV for pushing snow and a little hunting so I haven't run it much since I got it. I have a winch and a linear actuator for the lift on the snow plow for accessories. The OEM battery was bad when I got it. This summer I finally got around to replacing it. After reading up on how this was a common fault and how others solved the problem, I upgraded the size of the battery and moved it ahead and angled it to fit the original battery location. I replaced the OEM battery (190 CCA, 16 amh) with a 325 CCA 19 AHR Duracell Ultra AGM battery. It's is slightly bigger physically than the OEM battery and weighs 17 lbs and was designed for a motorcycle application.
I had mentioned what I had done on another thread titled BATTERY LOCATION. One of the knowledgeable tech savvy guys on this site pointed out that this might be a mistake because the charging system might not be able to keep up with the 300 amp battery while running. The system could overheat and I could run into Battery/Rectifier/ Regulator/ Stater problems. He suggested I find out the output data for the stater and also the recommended rate of charge for the new battery.
I normally keep a battery tender plugged into the battery. I took the tender off the day before this next step. I put a volt meter on the battery with it just sitting, it read 12.74 volts. With the motor running it was reading 14.75. I did not run it very long so I am hopefully assuming that reading might change as the system charges. I can't find any technical data on my stater output. Do I need to rethink my solution to the battery size issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Let me start by saying that I have a Stock 2017 Outlander 850 Max XTP with a full ricochet skid setup.

I noticed after a few trips of fast trail riding and some launches off pits, rocks, etc... (roughly 1000 miles) that I had wear marks on my rear axles from hitting the Ricochet rear axle skids. They were anodized black so I can see right where they are hitting. My buddy has the 2018 XTP with ricochets and has the same marks from hitting the axles. I spoke with Ricochet and they said I had an older revision and I can grind them down or have them send me new ones, I chose the new ones. Out of the box they are identical and after a trip this weekend I am having the same issues of hitting. The only thing I can think of is that the XTP had more travel over the factory shocks causing this issue. Has anyone else run into this and have for altered anything to make it work? I am going to make a longer "L" bracket where it attaches by the hub to lower the skid for more clearance. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated!
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Blew the front diff on my 08 sportsman x2 500 and it's $1650 for a new one with the adc. Will a diff from the same year without adc bolt in and wire in easily? Are they compatable? Trying to save a few bucks because I will never use the adc. Thanks for any help

05 sportsman efi 700

been doing this for a few years now and i cant remember but i thought when i bought it, it cranked somewhat faster.

tried different batterys, currently have a car battery hooked in series with atv battery but it still cranks slower than i think it should. it does start, but sounds like it barely starts. in the winter on first start of the day (below freezing) it usually barely fires, stalls and stays started the 2nd attempt. hot engine, cold engine dont matter, slow crank.

tried a db electric new starter with no change.

anything else i can try?

05 sportsman efi 700

been doing this for a few years now and i cant remember but i thought when i bought it, it cranked somewhat faster.

tried different batterys, currently have a car battery hooked in series with atv battery but it still cranks slower than i think it should. it does start, but sounds like it barely starts. in the winter on first start of the day (below freezing) it usually barely fires, stalls and stays started the 2nd attempt. hot engine, cold engine dont matter, slow crank.

tried a db electric new starter with no change.

anything else i can try?

So I've got my wheeler tore apart to fix handlebar play which was magnified by wheel bearings which just fell apart on the floor once I removed the hub. Now I am thinking about a lift kit now that I've got half the work done.

My question is: What is the better lifts to look at installing?

My wheeler: 2012 850 XP EPS

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