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I'm working on this for my cousin and when I got it the drive was stuck and it wouldn't shift. It was full of belt dust. I removed it and cleaned it up. The rollers are now free and I put new buttons in it. I reassembled it and the clutch now works fine. The issue now is the unit still creeps when engaging the shifter. Like the belt is to tight or something. I've never delt with these clutches before. I did also lower the idle to try that. I am stumped as to what else could be the issue unless the belt shrunk or something. What could be my problem?

So I recently acquired a 95' Xplorer. This is my 2nd Xplorer. First one I've had for 4-5 years now, and really like it. This recently acquired one I brought into the shop yesterday, and looked over. I greased it, lubed chains, checked the CB oil, sealed up the typical crack in the air box, checked over the intake boots, (replaced one of those) and just gave it a pretty good once over. 4WD works flawlessly, but I'm gonna pickup some hub fluid today, and change it out. Transmission was full of nasty oil, so that's on the list too. Needs a battery, and most of the lighting system replaced. Charging system seems to work. Electric start does not(possibly because of the battery situation) The bike seems to run like a champ, it just appears largely, to be in pretty rough shape cosmetically. Also seems like it's been neglected maintenance-wise for awhile.

The top end appears to have been apart fairly recently, and the previous owner informed me that the oil injection system, is disconnected, and that he had been running pre-mix in the tank. My other bike has the oil injection system intact, and has performed flawlessly since I've owned it, so I'm inclined to take this one apart and try to get it working again. Since I'm not certain of the state of things inside the oil pump housing, I'm planning on pulling the oil pump from the engine for a complete disassembly, and inspection. I've read several threads on what guys typically do to eliminate this system, and am anticipating having to scrounge/find/purchase a few parts along the way. Also have a manual, and read the oil pump section. Assuming the oil pump was just run dry(judging by the rest of the bike, this is what I suspect he meant by the oil injection system was "disconnected") what all is necessary to get it back up and running? Is it just a rotating group inside the pump? Or does it typically ruin the housing, to where a guy should just start over with a different pump?

This machine is mainly intended to pull plow duty on my place. It'll be chained up on all fours, for pretty well the remainder of its life, so if the oil pump thing looks like it's gonna be a huge deal, I'll just pre-mix fuel for it. My other machine went through 4 tanks of fuel behind the plow last winter, so it not a huge deal that I get the injector going, but would make it nicer. And, just in case I don't happen to be the one fueling it, It doesn't get mistaken for the machine with the functioning injection system.

On the machine I've owned for a bit, it's getting due for a set of tires. Of course the 10" wheels in the back are limiting my choices. I do have a brand new set of STI wheels, on hand. I'm fully capable of building adapter/spacers, and or re-centering these to fit this machine(they came off a 570 RZR) And I've seen a few aftermarket wheels that would bolt up the hubs, but are 12". Also I read up on the Predator hub mod. But I see some cheaper, decent looking tires on eBay in the 10" size. I was just wondering if anybody has tried the Sunf, or Wanda brand tires? Are they any good? Flatten out pretty good, when aired down? I like to ride a lot in the winter/early spring, but I don't have tracks. I need something with a pretty big footprint. Most of those cheaper tires don't indicate they're radials so, I figure they must be bias plies, with a presumably smaller footprint(unless they flatten out really good)?

Dylan

Looking to put my battery tender on my 2019 Outlander Max XT. Wondering if anyone had any crafty ideas about charging harness cable routing from the battery under the seat to a external location for plug in. My previous bike (Polaris) had a terminal block conveniently located for mounting the ring terminal charging harness. I ran it up through the headlight pod, and it was easy to access to plug in the battery tender. Does the Outlander have a better location I should be considering? Would like to set it up so that it can easily be put on the battery tender without having to remove any parts.

Based in Haiti I drive an 2017 X3 XRS and after 165 hours over 3000kms I noticed false reading with my fuel gage, who can suggest a solution

Hey all,
I've searched the forum in hopes of finding a service manual for a 2006 Outlander 400 non-max. All the links seem dead. Anyone have a copy they can share with me?

Thanks,

I need some expert advice on the best way to tie down my Outlander Max to my trailer. I have had several instances when arriving at the trail head, I find my ratchet straps loose and sometimes even unhooked. I am hooking to the front "winch mount" sheet metal area and the rear receiver mount bolted to the rear drive. I'm not hooking to suspension arms or axles. I think my problem is due to the soft, long travel suspension collapsing while bumping over rough Colorado forest service roads. I can see the machine bouncing in the rear view mirror.


I often tie my machine "east west" on the front of my trailer and my buddy ties his down "north south" behind it. Because I'm sideways on the trailer, my ratchet straps are short from Can Am to the trailer frame.

I just bet you experienced trail riders have developed a good and safe way to tie the Outlander down so it won't bounce off your trailer. I hope you can share your methods.

David

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Hey,

New here, been a lurker off and on for awhile.

My machines:
95' Xplorer #1(Had this one for awhile, really like it.)
95' Xplorer #2(bought yesterday. Runs like a champ, looks pretty bad. Working on getting it fixed up well enough to serve plow duties)


Several older Rokons.



Dylan

I've been looking for a descent video on how to remove the front fender body panel. It looks like to me the head light assembly needs to be disassembled in order to take this of, is that correct? Can anyone provide me a link to a video I can watch and learn from?

Thanks

Hey guys, just ordered a PCV for my 2016 outlander 850 xmr, this is my first time installing a tuner so just wondering where the best spot to mount it on the quad is (I go through a fair amount of deep water and mud). And also I see that they have a premade map for the quad with a stock air filter and yoshimura slip-on exhaust (which I have), will it just be a matter of putting that map onto the PCV and installing it on the quad, or is there anything else I’ll need to do?

Well, I finally decided to go with the 19’ 850xxc, got a great deal on it.
Haven’t ridden it yet just around the block and I must say, this bike is a beast! Can’t imagine what the 1k feels like.
So I was reading the owners manual, and it says the factory suspension settings are as follows:
Front HS comp- 2.25 turns ccw from full
LS comp- 2.25 turns ccw from full
Rebound- 12 clicks ccw from full

Rear is the same. Do these settings seem ok to start from?
What are your stats ie: rider weight, sag, shock settings, and type of terrain you mostly ride.