News

I hold the hand brake and shift from park to reverse or High. It doesn't just click into gear like your car/truck. I continue to hold the brake and blip the throttle and it ratchets into gear with a little suspension shift.

Not sure if this is normal... It's kinda how I do it on my Chinese knock off 170cc sxs. But wish it was a little smoother.

Is that how you're supposed to do it? Or once the lever is in gear rock back and forth and it should pop into gear?

Just seems more aggressive or wearsome to the parts.

First quad...been jeeping.

I have a 2000 sportsman 500 4x4. The battery is charged, lights work, but won't start. It just clicks. I thought it was the battery so I've been putting a maintainer on it. Which seemed to work. But now that's not helping. I put a new battery in it and some time it starts mostly it won't. You can pull start it tho. Relay? Starter?

I was just taking it for some laps around the house to break it in. The linkage from transmission lever decided to come apart. I went to put it into N and the lever went slack and heard something hit the driveway. it was the plastic L shaped bracket that connects the lever to the rod with the 90 deg bend. I opened up the side and put it back together after molding the heat shield back to the body piece. I was wondering if there was anything else that should be holding that linkage together besides the plastic bracket. It looks like the heat shield just got in the way and caused it to bind. if anymore pictures are needed let me know.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Ok guys, sorry this is my first post but I have been a long time lurker but a very recently joined member.
I have a 07 ranger 700 xp that I bought new. We mainly use it around the farm and for hunting. I take pretty good care of this machine and I usually do all of the repairs myself. A few months ago, it got to where it did not want to start without giving it gas. Well, I took it to a guy to adjust the TPS and pretty much go over it to see if anything else needed attention while he had it there. After a new TPS and a hefty bill, the ranger will start and idle just fine (1100 rpm). As soon as I give it a little gas, it dies. IF you give it gas fast then it misses the dead spot and goes on. It is also running rich and backfiring when I let off the gas when driving, not neutral. The guy told me that it had a broken wire at the T-BAP sensor plug but he repaired it. The motor sounds different than it used to and that it is being held back when at constant low rpm's. When it is ran at wide open throttle it sounds fine.

I pulled the T-BAP sensor and cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner. I have code 41, 45, and 25 showing up on the screen.
What should be my first step to getting this thing back to running right? Harness or sensor? or other?

Currently have 2 850xp and there getting to the age where problems start occurring. Will say they’ve both been rode HARD. I use the bikes strictly for mud. My question is I’m not sure if I should go back with the 850 or get the 1000 sportsman? Not sure the difference in the two. Does anyone have the 1000 coming from the 850? I love the extra power even tho the 850 has plenty.

Im looking for an slip on exhuast for my 05 outlander max and straightlines performance website says the exhaust ot for 12 to 18 is it really that different that it wont fit or can i just buy that one and put it on?

Going riding this weekend to Tall Pines.

Got the old Magnum all ready. I did an oil change a month and a half ago, after the machine had been brought back from the dead, but I wanted to change it again.

Out went some 0W-40 Rotella T6 and a Fram PH6017A filter. In went some 20W-50 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic and an STP 6017A filter.

The little 425cc Fuji didn't seem to care whatsoever. Runs just as great if not even quieter.
Have a great day.

Hello Everyone,

Quick back story, in January this year I got my bike stuck in some quick sand type mud and took forever to get it out. During this time I could not get the tires to spin due to the wet sand. While rocking it out I was working the throttle when I heard a pop in the rear end. Got it back to the house and it moved around for day or so then rear end locked up and has been sitting ever since.

Now for my question, what is the best practice for me here both time and money wise. Should I just break it down and rebuild it or is it better to just replace the whole differential. I have the know how to do the work just dont want to be wasting my time on a rebuild if dont have to since I have other issues to fix as well.

Hi guys

Ever since I got my scrambler 2 years ago, the choke has always been iffy; now, I don't know if that's normal on these ATV's or not, but it's pretty damn annoying.

Before, pulling the choke out very slowly would get it to rev up a bit slightly, and then it would die. If I pulled the choke out all the way (to the normal "start" position), it would die instantly after starting.

Other than that, the ATV runs completely normal, with great power, it will even start up fine without the choke, but I need to apply a slight amount of throttle to get it to stay running until it warms up (without the choke, of course, since it doesn't work).

So a few weeks I decided to take the carb out to clean it and figure out this choke problem once and for all. I had the carbs ultrasonically cleaned (even though it was already very clean inside), and cleaned all the choke mechanism, etc since the P.O. had put some oil down the cable.

After getting it back together yesterday and starting it this morning, I can say that the choke is doing the exact same thing it was doing before...even applying a slight amount of choke makes the ATV die when it's cold. I've checked the choke actuation in the carb itself, and it blocks/opens the port as I believe it should...

I just don't know if this is a normal thing with these ATV's, or a problem with mine specifically (which I can't figure out). My uncle's Sportsman 500 does something similar with the choke...

Also on another side note, does anyone know the part # of the check valve that goes on the carb overflow at the bottom? I don't see it on the parts fiche for the carb...

Hello out there to the big bore guys. First time posting to this forum. Ive done quite a bit of research and can’t find the answer to my question. Ill start with the backstory. 6 years ago, I rebuilt the top end on my predator when we ran a compression test shortly after a rebuild and it wouldnt hold on a leakdown. I was in high school at the time and worked on it in my Votech class. Instead of tearing it down, my dad just ordered the 560 kit and we bored the sleeve and I tore the bike apart only to find that the rings had lined up so that was the reason for the poor running condition and the failed leak down test. Well, we already had the parts and correct gaskets so we threw the 560 in it.

I can’t remember, been 6 years, but my dad said theres an O ring when you go to a sleeve instead of just the base gasket. Does anyone know anything about it? I can’t find any information online about an O ring, and Honestly I don’t really know where one would go. I tore it down this morning and there was no O ring, so whether its supposed to have one or not, I didnt put one in when I rebuilt it last.

The only ways Ive noticed a coolant issue. 1. It'll empty the overflow in a few hours ride time. 2. White milky sticky substance in the air box where the crank case vent goes in, definitely coolant-good old fashioned taste test. I know, causes cancer or something in California. NO coolant in the oil tank though... 3. Gelatinous clear goo on the inside of the thread-in plastic timing 'plugs', specifically the lower one over the crank bolt.

No coolant is getting in the top end, the plug is a little wet with gas (a rich condition Ive just dealt with) but no coolant. Not even with a pressure tester on the system. So is there an O ring Im missing? If so, will the cometic gasket kit for the 560 come with the O ring I need? If I can’t find out where the coolant is getting in, I might have to go back to the 500 piston and cylinder I still have and look practically brand new.

Sorry, I don’t like to be that guy whose first post on a forum is a question for the rest of the community, I just need to find out before I order gaskets to put this beast back together.

Thanks for any help you can offer, I would greatly appreciate it.