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Looking to see if anybody else has seen this. Randomly I have had the battery go dead on my 2015 SP1000 Touring. Example: One time this summer it started, idled a couple minutes to warm up, rode about 1/8 mile and shut down to check minnow trap. Went to start 5 minutes later and it just clicks.

What I have identified is that the ECM is remaining live for almost exactly 20 minutes. This is very consistent as verified by stopwatch. During this time there is approx. .9 amps draw as measured with an Amp Hound. .08 amps on the fuel pump circuit and .80 on the EFI circuit. I went through connector by connector unplugging to see if it released and could not get it to shut off until it timed out at 20 minutes. I have not yet been into the speedo pod. Removing and replugging the EFI relay or EFI fuse will remove the drain until key on again.

The battery is original to the machine and I probably should change it as it sure should stand a 1 amp draw for 20 minutes, but I still need to find the root cause. Battery will start the machine in dead cold so long as it has been charged and it seems to hold voltage relatively well so long as the key is not turned on to start the draw.

Disclosure: I do have a Power Commander V fuel controller on the machine. This device is being kept active by the ECM and not the other way around. If I unplug the injector feed that powers the PC-V my draw reduces by about .2 amps but resumes as soon as reconnected.

My longshot is the ECM itself, but I hate to just throw parts at it…

I have 2016 polaris sportsman 570. i recently purchased 2018 polaris scrambler wheels and tires. the lug pattern is the same but the front tire rubs on the shock. Can i use these with a spacer ?? im not sure the lug bolt will be long enough ??

I received a 2 stroke fourwheeler from my grandpa which hasn't been ran for about 8 years. When I received it not even the throttle would move which told me the carb needed a hefty cleaning. I cleaned the carb sprayed through all of the holes and replaced all jets. I had it running on and off for the past two weeks and last night was riding for about 30 min and it would only start with full choke and would only idle with full choke but once I got going I flip the choke off. If I came to a stop and the choke was not all the way open it would stall. I am 99% sure I have the carb cleaned and working correctly. Now this morning I can't even get it to fire with starter fluid checked spark and still have good spark. Recommendations wouldn't be helpful!

Don't like the janky shift gate on the wifes outty, are there any options?


I have this on my X3....

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Engine runs and revs fine. But the transmission in any gear will not move the vehicle. And, in any gear, not just neutral, I can push the vehicle in my garage freely. What should I look at first?

Can someone tell me why some Scrambler XP 1000 have a analog looking cluster and some are digital and look like the sportsman. I can’t seem to find an option selection that gives me the ability to pick the digital version.

Thanks.

ok so i bought a atv the was in a building that caught fire atv was not damaged much but some melted plastics but the owner took carb off before fire happened and the boot for the carb to match with the block i guess shrunk and is hard now from the heat is there any way i can make it work again like boil it in some water all i need is for it to go back over the carb

Hi new to this forum but hoping someone can help me out here. I have a 2006 polaris sportsman 700 efi quad sat for awhile wouldn't start so I replaced fuel pump and regulator and 2 new injectors. The only way I can someone get the quad to fire and kinda idle is if I almost completely restrict the air intake. I have put a fuel preasure gauge on at the rail and shows less then 10 psi when turning key to on position. I'm alittle baffled here my first fuel injected quad and I'm alittle lost right now is it still the fuel pump or regulator possibly a bad one I got.? Any help would be greatly appreciated